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Originally posted by Herbie Dont know excactly but it's a nova rossi and it's efra legal. I only see a art.number and a batchnumber on the box. Art. 52604 go to the following site and see for yourself by the exhausts http://www.novarossi.it/index_ing.html Ok great thanks .I have one of those on and impulse pro.It is a great pipe.:nod: :nod: :nod: :nod: |
Hey guys,
I know this is a 710 forum...but I figured I'd ask anyways.. Do any of you know if parts are still available for the impulse? If so, where is the best place to obtain them? Thanks for your help |
Originally posted by biker Do any of you know if parts are still available for the impulse? If so, where is the best place to obtain them? Where are you at? |
Originally posted by biker Hey guys, I know this is a 710 forum...but I figured I'd ask anyways.. Do any of you know if parts are still available for the impulse? If so, where is the best place to obtain them? Thanks for your help Yes they should be most of the parts are the same for the 705. I usually order from serpent or my local shops for serpent parts. But there should be a few online hobby shops as well . I have a 710 and 2 impulse pros.:D :D :D |
out of town for 5 days i think i have 13 pages to read:cry: i like reading all the pages just not all at once:lol:
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..thanks for the info guys...
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Originally posted by biker ..thanks for the info guys... No problem thats what this hobby is about .Helping one another. ;) |
Originally posted by Herbie :D Oops forgot the picture sorry Maybe a good tip for everyone; if you want to virtually drive on 5 Dutch tracks, including MACH, go to www.bigscaleracing.com and order the game. You can also download the demo which features only one track, which is the track closest to where I live. One drawback... you'll be driving those sluggish lawnmowers. Oh and another thing... I may be getting my hands on a MTX-3 soon. Does anyone want to buy it for $55? :lol: :lol: :lol: |
Originally posted by InitialD Cool. So putting each flyweight with 2 set screws (at the end of both sides of the tip??), you need to put 6 set screws in total right? Originally posted by InitialD Woow ! The UBO / LT combo is the 2nd highest rear roll center setting !:nod: Please share lah... Originally posted by InitialD :eek: Another goodie?:cry: Are they much lighter? I think the standard one is already durable as it is. ? The steel ball scratch the plate badly. This ceramic balls is like making a groove instead scratch the plates and it keep polishing by itself. |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Tight track engine
Originally posted by InitialD :flaming: :flaming: :flaming: Birds of the same feather flock together ! :nod: :lol: Seems very familiar for me... Is it from Mr "Bob Andrew" ? the CROWN A. ? Just curious... |
Originally posted by KevinS Oh and another thing... I may be getting my hands on a MTX-3 soon. Does anyone want to buy it for $55? :lol: :lol: :lol: |
Originally posted by GoldFinger :eek: :sneaky: What did you have found ? Please share lah... Well, I haven't tried playing so much with the rear roll center. I'm currently running UTI / LT and front with the highest roll center setting (0 mm shim under front upper arm). Just one step lower rear RC than what you're using. With a front diff, I found that very nice steering around the corners. I thought that the rear of the car would skate around because of the high rear RC. Coupled with a harder rear spring, very nice on throttle steering.:nod: Crashed_1 likes the stock rear roll center (UBI / LB) with the stock 2 mm shim under the front upper arm. That is with front diff. I believe with oneway, the stock rear RC is very nice to drive with. Very stable. I don't know if this is related but I tried yellow springs front and red rear with 50wt Serpent shock oil and 5x1.2mm piston holes all around. I tried with 42 shore tires all around on our track and it was driveable. Not bad. I went on to try 40wt Serpent shock oil and 4x1.2mm piston holes all around with yellow springs front and back and I thought it was a tad better with 42 shore tires. Need more time to test ! :lol: Originally posted by GoldFinger Lighter ? almost half from the steel ones. The steel ball scratch the plate badly. This ceramic balls is like making a groove instead scratch the plates and it keep polishing by itself. I hope that using the ceramic balls would not make it turn out like running the NTC3 where you need to change the diff plates on the ball diffs often because of wear...:( |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Tight track engine
Originally posted by GoldFinger Where do you get this statement ? Seems very familiar for me... Is it from Mr "Bob Andrew" ? the CROWN A. ? Just curious... |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Tight track engine
Originally posted by Sow&Steady Ah! Meister in online ...! Go on then, go here now. Everyone else welcomed to try too. Just type in a nickname and click chat :) I almost got lost there....forgotten what is "katalaluan"...end up looking thru dictionary...="password" :lol: :lol: :lol: i was in at 10:45am...alone:( |
Originally posted by InitialD :sneaky: :lol: I don't know if this is related but I tried yellow springs front and red rear with 50wt Serpent shock oil and 5x1.2mm piston holes all around. I tried with 42 shore tires all around on our track and it was driveable. Not bad. I went on to try 40wt Serpent shock oil and 4x1.2mm piston holes all around with yellow springs front and back and I thought it was a tad better with 42 shore tires. Need more time to test ! :lol: It is best shock setup for twisty (high traction)track where is so much slow hair pin. Originally posted by InitialD Cool. What grease are you using on the balls? On mine, the scratch on the plate is very minimal. Nothing a good polishing will not get it off. Still very smooth like new. I hope that using the ceramic balls would not make it turn out like running the NTC3 where you need to change the diff plates on the ball diffs often because of wear...:( I just clean it before final run, since im not using the diff cover. Nothing to replace. |
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