R/C Tech Forums - Serpent 710

Originally posted by cox049
Amigo Panama I have a question about that return spring in your brake link... aren't you braking at the same time as accelerating?? :weird: The brake lever applies the brakes when pulled and also when pushed… see what I mean

OK when you accelerate your are pushing the return spring and when you brake you not pushing the spring, now when you lose power (battery) the return spring will push the servo arm to the minimum acceleration or idle, which is what you are looking for.

I had already two experiences with batteries and it had worked perfect.

On the Impulse I have it the other way but it is the same, now because I do not have a digital servo on the Impulse the servo it is not as soft as the digital when no power is apply.

InitialD

05-19-2004 06:21 PM

Re: Re: Question

Quote:

Originally posted by Fernando_M
I have seen the same problem with the 17/61 combo.
I noticed in my car that there seems to be a problem with the 61t spur, as it seems to be excentric. That is, mesh can be good in one position, but when the spur is rotated the mesh changes. In that case, mesh can change from Ok to too loose, or too tight.
This is a point for Serpent has to look at.

I'm still using the 61T spur. I'll report back if anything happens.:cool:

InitialD

05-19-2004 06:22 PM

Re: Re: Thanks !

Quote:

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Profoxcg, good luck with the MTX, when you're stuck on a plateau in terms of peformance get another 710 again ... :)

:lol: Good one !;)

InitialD

05-19-2004 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rcpanama
Final question if I install the .10 with the .30 to increase to .4 which one goes first (from top to button) .10 or .30

The thinner copper 0.1 mm shim should go first and then followed by the thicker 0.3 mm aluminum shim. The thicker aluminum shim will protect the thinner copper shim when it goes on top of the piston liner.

InitialD

05-19-2004 06:28 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Question

Quote:

:lol:

Quote:

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
If you're trying to produce this kind of "loose and rotating " meshing for the 61/16 I think it will not work and you'll strip more gears. :)

I notice that at the first instance, the gears should be mesh tight. Then when the car is run for a few tanks, the gears "loosened" up. And even though it's smooth and rotates more freely, it will not strip. That's what I notice on mine.

InitialD

05-19-2004 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by KevinS
www.rc-mushroom.com has the 3PK for $250 (metallic) and $275 for the black metallic. You can probably get one shipped to you for under $300.

Ummm, I don't know if jhigga15 refers to radio as in WITH the servos or not. I think the radios from RCMushroom does not come with servos...

If I had a limited budget, I would invest in good servos and a normal Tx/Rx.

rwisejr

05-19-2004 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jhigga15
Any seggestions on a radio...under 300...Please
Thanks

3PK dude and welcome to snake land . I remember someone saying that the JR reciever was too big for the receiver box.

rcpanama

05-19-2004 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
The thinner copper 0.1 mm shim should go first and then followed by the thicker 0.3 mm aluminum shim. The thicker aluminum shim will protect the thinner copper shim when it goes on top of the piston liner.

Thanks you has been a excellent help

Profoxcg

05-19-2004 07:29 PM

Quote:

Profoxcg, good luck with the MTX, when you're stuck on a plateau in terms of peformance get another 710 again ...

now you guys are being mean to me !!!

:nod:

InitialD

05-19-2004 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
now you guys are being mean to me !!!

:nod:

Profoxcg, no worries ! If you need any help with your MTX-3, you know you could ask here ! :lol: :lol: :lol:

stormperson

05-19-2004 08:03 PM

Hi,

I just started to build my 710 and due having the first step have the wrong part (two left side lower bulkheads, no right side, lol) I started on other parts and build the shocks and radio tray. Which leads me to ask...

what were they thinking but the rx and servo's right in the path of fuel overflow? Has anyone has issues with this? Its kinda hard to protect the rx or put it in a bag since there isnt much room and the wires wouldnt quite fit... Anyone have insight into this?

PUNISHER

05-19-2004 08:04 PM

Re: Question

Quote:

Originally posted by PUNISHER
Has anyone have problems on striping spur gears??

I'm running 16/61 1st gear combo and going through about one spur a week!:rolleyes: :cry: :mad: I'm making sure it has the proper mesh and making sure my motor mounts are secure but still stripping.

Thanks guys for all of the replys on this topic!:nod:

I'm going to try Master D's methods on the mesh of the spur and pinion..........a tight mesh. Also I may try Pyramid black book mod.:cool:

crashed_1

05-19-2004 08:33 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Question

Quote:

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Crashed, D is right. You need to mesh it the gears closer. Don't try to replicate like those of the 705 or other cars ... where people are impressed that you could flick your pinion and the combo of your pinions and spurs rotating forever.

If you're trying to produce this kind of "loose and rotating " meshing for the 61/16 I think it will not work and you'll strip more gears. :)

:D :D :D I still have that little bit of NTC3 in me...:sweat:

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