R/C Tech Forums - Serpent 710

Originally posted by Profoxcg
BTW i got the 3racing 1mm ofset wheels a few minutes ago and they fit perfectly and help the rubbing some. Also they seem much nicer and well crafted compared to the serpent ones.

Some are nice. Some are not. I know that the Titanium shafts (2 speed shaft and mid shaft) are pretty decent.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
I want to buy their alum pulleys, has anyone tried them yet?

I would not trust aluminum pulleys. Stick to stock plastic. Aluminum would be hard on the belts as if the aluminum quality is not good, they get shapened after time and cut the belts easy. For sure, changing plastic pulleys is cheaper than changing belts.

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blue Sky
What I'm wondering is how secure this is, especially when you're at the track and need to change shock position and re-applying thread-lock?

I learned this trick by accident... I use a 3 mm to lock the ball joint onto the stud on the arm. The stud does not protrude much. About 3 mm or so. After it's tightened, I unscrew the stud out of the arm using a 1.5 mm allen so that the stud comes out of the ball joint hole. This ensures that the ball joint gets more threading on the stud.

Hope that was understood as I posted a pic of it sometime back.

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blue Sky
Maybe just one more build question. Do you (or you guys) find the rear arms etc. are not as free as the front arms when you were building the car? Any hints? Thanks.

You could polish the pivot pins. Put some dry graphite powder lube or like me I dab some silicone shock on the shafts... After a few rounds around the track, your car's suspension arms should be very smooth.

Looks like you're really on the roll building the 710 ! :nod: :sneaky:

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Eddie M
I have race Serpent car for over 5 years now and I still not using thread lock on shock ballend. I guess I am just luck:sweat:

Like you, I have stopped using thread lock anywhere (except grub screws on the aluminum pulley adaptors) including engine mounts. I just make sure I tighten them real hard.

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Eddie M
I guess you and I are shopping at the same place:lol: I only bought the graphit bumper top place and some glown plugs

I only used the aluminum part that comes with the upper graphite bumper top plate that goes to hold the grub screws for the front droop. I cut the stock plastic bumper top plate so that they are detached from the front bulkhead. The graphite part of the bumper top plate is too nice too use ! :cry:

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:34 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Ball Diff

Quote:

Originally posted by kreidel
InitialD,

If I am wanting to purchase a new kit is there any way of knowing I am getting the updated version of it?

Sorry. I really cannot help you there. Where are you planning to get yours? If you're going to get it from your LHS, let the owner have you take a peek at what's inside the box.

The thicker rear shock tower should be of different design (see a pic I posted not too long ago). The flywheel is now black anodised. As for the rear bottom arms, no idea but like cox49 mentioned, the updated lower and upper bumper brace is already out in US. As to how those parts look like, no idea.:(

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:35 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Ball Diff

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
The only way of finding this out is to either ask your LHS (if he knows the 710 well) or look inside the box. There is no other way to tell whether there is a newer kit inside the box.

Great minds... Fools never...:lol: :cry:

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:36 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Ball Diff

Quote:

Originally posted by kreidel
That blows....if I buy a kit I don't want the same one I had before. I guess I might just have to wait for a 710R just to be safe.

I don't think there's a 710R anytime soon. Julius and even Pieter mentioned about it.

If there are any upgrades to the parts, it would be a running change of the current parts to make them better.

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:38 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Ball Diff

Quote:

Originally posted by PSI Racing
You could always email or call Serpent USA and ask them what the batch numbers are for the newer kits.
Then when you go to buy your 710, you could look at the back of the box and verify that it's a newer kit.

That's a smart way. :nod: If anyone remembered, I actually asked this question to Julius (not knowing at that time that he does not work for Serpent :lol: ) when the 710 just came out about the batch numbers below the box which has the weight of the contents and some numbering and alphabets printed. I asked what those numbers meant and somebody chided to say that was utterly waste of time to know what it meant ! :rolleyes:

Perhaps it's good to bring that subject up again and probably have people like Rene C answer it.:nod:

Brett.w

04-21-2004 07:45 PM

couple of option parts

1 Attachment(s)

here are some pics of some option parts for the 710

The diff is much smoother than the standard

Brett.w

04-21-2004 07:46 PM

Re: couple of option parts

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
here are some pics of some option parts for the 710

The diff is much smoother than the standard

InitialD

04-21-2004 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pyramid
What I`m interested in, what is the benefit for having higher RC but with the lower arm mounted far more toward up from the bottom of chassis. I mean, when the lower arm is now mounted on its highest point, the weight of the rear (CG?) is somehow lower. Does it then generate more tracktion??

I don't think there is any difference with regards to how the weight of the car is located with the location of the rear bottom arm. If there is, it's probably very insignificant.

Higher RC in the rear makes the rear part resist rolling. The apparent result would make the rear loose and your car will have more steering.

Try it out and you'll know what I mean. I tried it once following what Michael did in Thailand and the rear of the car was loose at the local track I tried on.

kreidel

04-21-2004 08:06 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Ball Diff

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
I don't think there's a 710R anytime soon. Julius and even Pieter mentioned about it.

If there are any upgrades to the parts, it would be a running change of the current parts to make them better.

I am not in too big of a hurry to get another 710, so we will see how impatient I get. And you know they wouldnt tell us if they did have the R kits since they need time to sell off old stock.

InitialD

04-21-2004 08:07 PM

Re: couple of option parts

Quote:

Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
here are some pics of some option parts for the 710

The diff is much smoother than the standard

Voodo_Magic, looks good ! :nod: Let us know how the diff runs and how reliable it is. Also check on the rear belt to see how the aluminum diff pulley treats it.

Brett.w

04-21-2004 08:09 PM

Re: Re: couple of option parts

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Voodo_Magic, looks good ! :nod: Let us know how the diff runs and how reliable it is. Also check on the rear belt to see how the aluminum diff pulley treats it.

N probs D youll be the first to know:)

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