New_Toasted

I just turned my shocktower around so that the body posts came a little more forward, enough to "miss" the spoilermount. Could get some pics if you like to.

New_Toasted

The 710 has it's 2:nd birthday this winter, so I don't know if you can say "again". Although, I will keep my 710 as it is at least one more season, I love it too much to get a new one

gfd2726

Hi guys,

I am about to cut/mod my clutch shoe and I am confuse... I don't know what to cut... Do I cut the clutch shoe or flyweight or both? Which one is the flyweight and which is clutch shoe? Thanks!

A: Is this the clutch shoe?
[IMG][/IMG]

B: Flyweight?
[IMG][/IMG]

rccobra705

iTrader: (1)

A: the flyweight
B: the clutch shoe

chao

jag

You have it backwards.
The 3 pieces are 802507 centrifugal shoes (flyweights) and the round 1 piece is the 802508 clutch shoe.

I believe that you can use the clutch shoe and cut into 1/3's or cut the ends off the flyweights and lay them between the posts. They are a little different so the outcome will not be the same. When you install the clutch shoe (where it is supposed to go) you do not modify it.

The parts I'm not completely sure about are the weight and the fit. I thought someone said to lighten the flyweights by drilling holes in them but I don't know why. I also don't know if they should just lay in there or if they should be snug.

Not much help but it's a start.

jag

Is that "The Mike Swauger" brousing the 710 forum?

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

maybe he is looking for a better car

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

I raced out an bought the 710 when it was first released, but i had problems with the thrust bearing in the centax an gave up in frustration... I think most of my problems were more user issues then anything else , but it still looks like you need to mod the clutch to get better performance from it?

All i want is a car that is not going to require a heap of hop ups to get the thing to run for a full 5 minutes... aka G4\Mongoose!

I guess the MTX4 is another option, but i'd then end up being a sheep at my local track

Imput always welcome...

BB

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

The 710 can run for a full 5 minutes out of the box. Did it for over a year

InitialD

I could have done the same but the temptation was too strong to resist testing out the goodies.

InitialD

Marcos, how are you? Still running the Schumacher or are you itching to get back to the 710?

InitialD

That is correct. If you want more steering, you mount the body slightly to the front and you still get into the rear spoiler.

To avoid that completely, you need to be a renegade and join the Two Tower's club like what Mark Green did for his car.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10313

InitialD

BB, perhaps you've already changed your nick or re-registered but if you had posted for help on Clutch clutch issues etc, we would have gladly given a hand.

Anyways, if you follow mytsn article by Glenn Cauley, using the optional yellow clutch shoe (802509), you do not need to cut up and modify the flyweights.

If you insist on using the black clutch shoes (802508), then cutting the flyweights would make the clutch perform better.

Some of us go to a higher extent of cutting the flyweights and using the optional yellow shoe. That would give the best performance when the grip is high.

InitialD

The reason why mounting the flyweights in between the post gives better performance is because it somehow makes the flyweights "heavier" mounted in this position and the axial force throws the flyweights axially towards the clutchshoe / clutchbell at a greater force.

I've tried making the flyweights heavier by using 2 pieces of M3 x 4 grub / set screws on each flyweight and mounted the flyweights in between the flywheel pins. Yellow shoes and the harder Centax II spring is used. But like what Pyramid experienced, it gives very good performance initially but the clutch somehow gets stuck intermittently going out of the corners after a while. Probably after it gets heated up.

So now I just cut the flyweights and mount them in between the flywheel pins.

What I do lighten is by drilling and making several dimple holes BEHIND the clutchshoe with a bodyshell reamer in order to make the clutchshoe lighter. I saw this being done by Rick V but that was on a 950R.

He explains that a lighter clutchshoe accelerates faster towards the clutchbell due to the axial force from the flyweights. This results in a more responsive clutch.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

InitialD: You are correct in the fact that i changed my username... you were always good in your assistence, but i was just foolish in the end. I have reread through the posts an it appears as though i blew two thrust bearings the second on while trying to run in a new engine an broke a front dog bone at the same time... that was the final straw an the rest is histroy

Oh... FYI i traded as S710_nut... if Sparksy hadn't fled south to Victoria from sunny Qld... hehehehehe

BB