Nice Alfa, Julius.

I'm just back from Kirchberg track - long, almost 600km drive :cry: Lovely track - easy to start to drive on, but difficult to go fast.

In qualifying, I went straight into the finals in 3rd place - despite the other guys using Lolas (only 3 of us were real men and used TC shells http://3hobby.net/images/blocks/shou...wistedevil.gif

Final was a disaster, though. In my last qual session, I could feel the grip going away on my 37s - thinking they were starting to overheat, I thought I would run 40s in the final.

Come the final, the car was far too loose - understeer and oversteer - it really wobbled left and right under power and braking. I had Rene running a couple of times to right my car or rescuse it from the grass and eventaully I had a problem with the power connector at the half ways point :( I had badly positioned the power cable connector and a tiny splash of fuel caused it to short and that was the end of my final.

Rene agreed that I'd driven pretty awful in the final - I think it was 50% driver and 50% tyres. I just couldn't keep consistent with the low grip of the 40 shore tyres. I'd put two ok laps together and then three where I was missing the apexs, etc.

Still it was great fun at the Kirchberg track - the Mega motor was certainly Mega!!! and Rene's pit and tuning work was first rate :nod: Big thanks to him for helping me out.

Mark...well that sounds like an exciting day :) You didn't run your Palmaris P/S? How did Rene do? He was fast at the Winternats.

Rene wasn't running - he was there as a Serpent representative for the Austria Serpent Challenge. I had to run a Mega for the race, which I got for a very good price - the engine was really good, though.

Certainly the day was exciting - I destroyed a 710 during practice :rolleyes: my crystal broke on the straight and the car went at full speed into a metal pole :cry: The president of the track was telling me that that was the first time for this to happen *sigh*

Sounds bad :( Bent chassis, radio tray and fuel tank?? Kinda late but I wonder if a throttle return spring would have helped.

Man hate to here that. That is a bad break !!!!! Thats why I like my synthesized and If this spektrum works out stuff like that is all but eliminated.

Fire the pit guy. :lol:

Congrats... A new pit monkey? http://www.3hobby.net/images/blocks/...wistedevil.gif

Hey, sorry to hear that. Like what JustRace mentioned, I think if the TRS would have been used, it would have saved the situation. Kinda sucks that the crystal broke on the straights...

GOT ANY PICS OF THAT BROKEN 710?

Re: Flyweights mod
 

Hey Pandora, glad you found you way here... :)

By doing that, you actually "increase" the centrifugal weight of the flyweights. With the stock black clutch shoe, it works better when you make the flyweights heavier. Else, with the black clutch shoes the clutch will tend to slip

Better launch and more responsive clutch? :sneaky:

Nothing's wrong really. It's because the parts on the Centax 3 are pretty lighten up already. Use the yellow optional clutch shoes with the standard flyweight mountings and you should be OK.

One of the things that you can fine tune the clutch is by using the harder Centax II clutch spring (909518). In the manual, there is a misprint. The kit comes with the softer 6586 Centax spring.

Anyway, check out this Centax article here for more suggestions.

Well, that was an OK design. At that time, what people did was to cut their clutch shoes to the flyweight sizes and use them to replace the original flyweights WITHOUT the circular spring. Better clutch response.

The ceramic balls are expensive. To me, it's no difference actually as the car is already very light and smooth.

The trick is to use the Mugen Super Grease on the diff balls (as well as the Centax thrust bearings). I find other types of grease is not sticky enough and they fly out very quickly after a few rounds. Put some grease on a paper towel and smear it evenly together with the diff balls. I actually ran the same diff balls and plates for close to a year without any gritty feeling in the diffs. I've very seldom taken the rear ball diff out to service and clean it. Only went to ceramic balls diffs because I was itchy. :lol:

Note that even with ceramic balls, if you do not lube the diff balls, you'll end up having the diffs gritty too. :nod:

Look at this article here to build your rear diff properly.

If you have more questions, don't hesitate to shoot. :)

Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

Hi D,

Where can I find the Loletta shell in Klang Valley?
Any of the LHS carry stock?

Cheers...

Hi Guys with the new 21t middle pully would that give me more tyre wear on the front?

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

Why would you want to use it? Doesn't Atria have it in stock?

Theoretically yes. When you use the 21T, you usually use a smaller front tire than rear (about 4 mm difference). When you do this, the front tires will rotate more times than the rear tires to get the same tire rollout. When the front tires spin more times, then the tendency to wear gets higher.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

Why? Just want to see how much diff the handling is between TC and Lola. :D
I think ATria has the normal Lola but not the Loletta.
So, any idea where?

Cheers...;)