Like a lot of people say, having the 710 makes for unfair competition with the other drivers of other cars !;)

Re: For Marcos
 

That's actually the rear shock tower mount for TC shell for the Serpent 705 / 835. Part number is 808143 for the rear shock tower mount set and the holder is from the other rear TC set (808140).

Re: Re: Re: Re: My car
 

:deathstar :deathstar :deathstar :deathstar

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: My car
 

Ahah... That makes me graphically talented too ! Look at the 705 / 710 pics ! :sneaky: :lol: But the difference is, I do not use the OS to make me look like one ! ;) :sweat:

Re: One just for InitialD
 

:eek: :sneaky:

One-Way braking question
 

Tweak both with and without anti-roll bars appear to have been set correctly, as is droop, even compensating for tire size. Yet, under hard braking, the car still spins exactly 180 degrees with the one-way.

Is this simply the nature of the beast? Is there a way to eliminate the spin completely by playing with the rear droop settings or front suspension settings?

Thanks.

Re: Re: For Marcos
 

totally correct

Re: One-Way braking question
 

It is almost impossible to avoid the rear spinning off with a oneway. With a harder rear diff or a solid axle with a rear droop of about 9 or 10 and with very good traction track, it may be possible but still quite difficult to do hard braking. The rear wheels must not lock up upon braking. Else, I guess even though with all the tweak ironed out, you still need to take into account the uneven surface and the uneven tire wear which will result in uneven tire contact patch.

Thanks I.D.

I failed to mention that this was observed during the first parking lot run in of my 710 (untreated surface) with 2 year old rubbers so serves to exacerbate the problem.

Before I run my 3rd tank tomorrow morning, I'll try to increase the rear droop and see if it helps.

Weather is looking great in Cali, perhaps a sign of a nice season to come!

p/s: my last on-road was an original Impulse but am slowly finding time to ease back into the hobby. BTW, anyone here run at the Lemans Track in the Bay Area?

If increasing droop means less downward travel in your book then it helps.

The less downward travel the suspension has the better the braking gets. A downstop setting of about 8-9mm is good. I find the range for downstop in the rear to be between 6 and 9. This depends a bit on tire size and ride height settings though.

tried spinning my rear diff with tires on. All the difference in the world. alot less effort to spin the diff. I'm sure it will loosen up some after I run for the first time. Thanks.

Thanks Julius. Yes, that was what I had intended to express. Increasing droop, as per the Hudy gauge, means that there will be less downward travel.

Just incase you haven't done this: the breaks must be set very light with the one way. Put the car onto the surface on which you want to drive and put the breaks full on - now push the car and see if the back wheels are locked - if they are, then ease off the amount of breaks with your transmitter.
Once you have this initial start point, you can try and dial in more breaking power on the track - until you start spining again.

Cheers, Mark.

Just remember as you tyres get smaller during a race the brakes work better and you may start locking wheels and spining out.

Why is that?...:confused: