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jag 09-22-2005 10:16 AM


Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
So you're nearly there because that's usually how they behave i.e. for the same engine tune, if the clutch response is fast, the punch is less and vice versa. I would use the one that has better punch and then tune the engine to give best low-end. Don't forget the tyres ... :sneaky:



I wasn't watching too closely because the week long Euros gave me aggro every day, mainly my engines. Julius definitely shaved them and used them ON the pins.

Keep him talking guys... we will have that clutch setup soon enough. :sneaky: "I wasn't watching too closely..." He probably video taped Julius while he was doing it. :D

I thought that cutting a clutch into 3rds is too light for flyweights. I tried that with a black clutch and it wouldn't apply enough force to lock-up the clutch. All I got from that setup was a lot of yellow dust all over my car.

Julius 09-22-2005 11:36 AM

First of all, use the stock weights and yellow shoe. 0.7mm gap and the spring set so the clutch will engage at high rpm but not so tight the clutch slips for more than half a meter when accelerating out of slow corners.

The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.

I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!

markp27 09-22-2005 12:30 PM


Originally Posted by Julius
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!

I've been testing my Mega this evening at my local track and I really like the standard fly-weights clutch setup, I had amazing acceleration out of the corners, not to mention loads of top speed, too - and all this whilst still running the engine at 100 Degrees C!!!! Fantastic!!

I have the same clutch setup as Meister and getting the correct setup required no effort and very little time.

Cheers, Mark.

Sow&Steady 09-22-2005 12:56 PM


Originally Posted by Julius
First of all, use the stock weights and yellow shoe. 0.7mm gap and the spring set so the clutch will engage at high rpm but not so tight the clutch slips for more than half a meter when accelerating out of slow corners.

The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.

I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!

Aha! Meister has spoken Jag ... I won't need to dismantle that awesome clutch now! :sneaky:

Sow&Steady 09-22-2005 12:58 PM


Originally Posted by jag
Keep him talking guys... we will have that clutch setup soon enough. :sneaky: "I wasn't watching too closely..." He probably video taped Julius while he was doing it. :D


I didn't video tape the part he was doing the cutting and clutch assembly ... the scene you see in the "Euros 05 Scenes" video at 3Hobby.net was when he was working on Joe_K's car.

Sow&Steady 09-22-2005 12:59 PM

.. double post ... :rolleyes:

Sow&Steady 09-22-2005 01:01 PM


Originally Posted by markp27
I've been testing my Mega this evening at my local track ...

Jeez, don't you ever have to go to work? :rolleyes:

crashed_1 09-22-2005 06:10 PM

uh oh...deja vu.

that can only mean a glitch in the Matrix or OLD AGE!... :lol: :lol: :lol:

going4#1 09-22-2005 10:23 PM


Originally Posted by Julius
The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.

I get it. Instead of having a hole at the top of a weight so a clutch weight flys out as it is being pulled but the flywheel, the hole is at the back of the weight so as the flywheel turns it pushes the flyweight out. Is this what you mean?

Sow&Steady 09-22-2005 11:35 PM


Originally Posted by crashed_1
uh oh...deja vu.

that can only mean a glitch in the Matrix or OLD AGE!... :lol: :lol: :lol:

When you see the upcoming interview you'll *know* which one it is ... OLD AGE! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sow&Steady 09-23-2005 12:18 AM

Just posted my RCC Shock Absorbers Review at 3hobby.

You gotta get these!

jag 09-23-2005 07:49 AM


Originally Posted by Julius
First of all, use the stock weights and yellow shoe. 0.7mm gap and the spring set so the clutch will engage at high rpm but not so tight the clutch slips for more than half a meter when accelerating out of slow corners.

The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.

I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!

That is very interesting... I will have to give that a try (of course). No weights in the yellow flyweights?

Is the yellow clutch shoe better than the black when used this way for the flyweights?

Does Meister Salven have his flyweights in the forward or trailing position?

Thanks,
jag

fmolzer 09-24-2005 02:04 PM

So after a long silence, I gotta ask, Salven builds the clutch just like the manual suggests? That would be way too easy....

Pyramid 09-24-2005 07:44 PM

..and so did Mark Green.

New_Toasted 09-25-2005 01:29 AM

I've driven one season with the clutch built as the manual described and it has worked flawlessly, though I haven't used any high-power engine I guess it would work fine with one of those too..

BTW: Fmolzer, the race was horrible for me :( After checking times I could have been around 5:th place in the main, but my engine gave up after the first qaulifying round. I disassembled it and noticed that I almost could push the piston through the sleeve with my bare hands. There was also a lot of play in the front bearing. So, if you will order some Mega:s, I'm in on one too :) By the way, how was your trip to Mexico?


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