InitialD

Oppphs... Damn. You mean I need to disassemble it all over again?

InitialD

I mount it at the top because the steering linkage to the servo saver and to the steering knuckles are level...

InitialD

I don't understand... What I do before I set the rear camber is I first set the rear trackwidth to less than 200 mm with a new set of 30 mm rims. I have mine set at 198 mm at the moment. Then taking off the wheels and putting it on the Hudy gauge, I proceed to set toe in. Then I set the rear wheel camber by adjusting the 3rd pivot pin by screwing in (more camber) or screwing out (less camber).

This way, the rear bottom aluminum pivot pin NEVER needs to see "more flesh" than required if you're using more camber like -4.

crashed_1

I noticed that you mount your FR shocks on the inside instead of the outside of the front tower...any difference?

InitialD

Those spacers are inherited from the 705. Since I do not use shock towers on the 705, those spacers are laying around in the toolbox. I found that the shocks are not as straight as they should be (me thinks) when mounted as shown in the manual. It was like that on the Impulse PRO and when the 705 came out, they came with those spacers and the reason for that was the front shocks could be aligned straight and better.

What does Team Serpent think this? Since the 710 was designed from the ground up, why was this overlooked since the bulkheads could be made to shift a little bit behind?

crashed_1

Damn...you're right...they aren't straight...more wrenching.

InitialD

Hold your horses... Don't know if Serpent did this intentional or if indeed this was sight they missed. I don't think it will make much handling difference straight or slanterd a little. Just personal preference I guess. Anyway, you need a longer counter sunk M3 allen to put the spacer and yet be able to screw the shock tower into the bulkhead.

clmbia45

Julius, I've been meaning to ask, I know working for Serpent must be very profitable, but isn't it a bit MUCH to put a picture of your private plane on your posts??

Julius

Maybe it's me but: Camber is set with the top pivot ball. More camber means it's screwed in further = more durable. The lower balls are set for track width and toe.

Did you already rip out a ball or is it more a concern?

Julius

I doubt that you will be able to clear the steering rod from the suspension. Especially when you run the top pivot block in the lowest position. To be honest we didn't try this. Feel free!

Julius

I wish
Actually I am not an employee of Serpent. I test and race for them but I do not get paid.

EVOLUTION

I knew Pieter was a tight ass !

GoldFinger

First time I put on hudy setup block,above statement is true.
On testing, I switched the upper link to its shortest position(UBO) and made an adjustment(lower ball) to keep 4 deg camber.
In this position, screwing all the way(upper ball) you will only get 1 deg. change.
With this (very much) camber change, i think i hit the jackpot on back side. Then i realize the rear trackwidht is 202mm and nothing i can do since the upperlink ball is screwed maximum. Pyramid suggest me to cut the ball and I did cut 3mm off.
Check my photo, you will never be able to do that without cutting your balls!! (I mean stock aluminium pivot ball)
Then after adjusting the lower ball to kept 200mm trackwidht, my car is even better.

Not the ball, thread on the arm is ripped out. This is happen before I cut my upper ball. After hitting a curb at fast chicane my 710 is having a lovely airshow in quattro twist style, The (back) lower ball is slanted forward a bit but far enough for drs arm to scrub 1st spur gear.

And for the next day Sunday race,before the Final I did put some threadlock on that ripped arm thread. I did Finish without cahnging any parts coz I do not have any of those 710 parts
Is that couraging ?? or stupid ..??

GoldFinger

For lowest hinge pin position, only 1 kungfu left then...
Mount the ball face down and to compensate that you have to mount track rod on the lower side in steering block too

GoldFinger

Really..???