Solara

iTrader: (17)

With all the above solutions, you can lay the rear shock DOWN more (1st lowerest hole vs the 4th holes).....then do the above setting (4 holes damper, lighter oil, no sway bar, more toe-in).....then loosen the rear diff a little too.

If you still don't have enough traction at rear.........I think you need to upgrade to 710, then ask Julius to set your car, LOL.

InitialD

Hey, where is the 710 that I send you recently?

lawndoggie

Hey! I sent you back already, with the Novamax and 50607 pipe.... where is my MONEY??
BTW, I did a little mod on the novamax, with titanium carb, all silver plated screws, special carved out "hallow" crank shaft, and of course my special signiature on the heat sink....

InitialD

Don't worry, everybody is allowed to make mistakes !

Ummm, this is not what I found out. When you set the linkage shorter (I use 39.5 mm in the linkage length instead of 44.5 mm), the servo horn on the steering linkage needs to lean forward instead of being 90 degree centered to the servo casing to get the wheels centered left and right. Hence the servo horn cannot be 90 degrees to the servo casing. It needs to be at 90 degrees with the linkage arm.

Taking Pyramid's and Goldfinger's advise, I added about 0.5 mm shim between the servo horn and linkage connection to clear the servo horn from rubbing the ball cup when the servo is at the end of the travel towards the rear (right turn). The linkage movement clears the front belt barely.

InitialD

This is what I did. The stock rod linkage is 23 mm from tip to tip. I cut to 17 mm.

I also trimmed the length of the ball cups. The picture attached shows clearly.

This gives the total length of the ball cup and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm.

InitialD

Here's a top view of how it looks like when the steering is turned full lock to the right.

Julius, on the Hudy gauge, how many degrees do you set for left and right? My steering reaches about 26 degrees left and right from neutral. I think this is the maximum travel the steering will go. At least for the right turn.

InitialD

Another pic showing a different angle.

Sow&Steady

D, that servo horn did not looked as if it needed to turn much before hitting full lock. Is that right? Does the car feel sensitive when you drive it?

InitialD

I have not driven the car yet ! So I don't know if the car will feel sensitive when you drive it. Well, at least I know that I could set the steering throw as maximum as possible without binding. That was the aim. If it was sensitive (which I think it will be), I'll just release and turn down the dual rate on the Tx.

The servo horn did not look as if it had to turn much at full lock because the servo horn was already in the forward position (about 90 degree to the linkage and not 90 degree to the servo casing) when the left and right steering is dead in the center at neutral position.

Julius

That looks abbout right. You'll have ample throw like that.

Julius

Well it could be that with divverent servos you'll end up anywhere between 90 degrees to the servo upto 90 degrees to the link. It's a trial and error thing. It is difficult to get things right as there are so many variations in servo design....

As long as the epa settings are close it's ok.

Julius

Looks like you missed a spot on the radiotray with the CA-glue on the edges!!! (near the M4 screw at the right front bulkhead!)

GoldFinger

OOpps... sorry, thanks for the corrections.
Fastharry, it was 1st spur gear that was touches by the arm.

With aluminium(stock) balls, especially if the rear camber is set 4 deg. a hard impact from back side of the wheel will rip out arm thread.

GoldFinger

Spend most of your time to get this linkage right.
You will need all the travel(EPA).

Next week I will try softer FR tire like Julius said. This is my 1st time ever, to test a car using softer front tires.

GoldFinger

Julius, there is one thing I forget to ask you:
Pls check Initial D picture about steering linkage in normal position.

When I mount the steering rod face up(balls on the top), as the car lean harder it increases the toe in for the outside wheel. At least it will help servo holds this tire in setup position. Which is good for high speed cornering. For low speed cornering the present ackerman angle is big enough to do it smoothly.

If I build it face down (just like manual) the toe change (bump steer) is only happen when you brake hard but not changing the toe setup as the car leans out when cornering.

All above is only my theory and i mount it on top eventually, only because im feeling better..

Question is: Which is better for tight and small track?