Serpent 710
oh. and do you know if you can play it online?
Originally posted by packetdreamer
oh. and do you know if you can play it online?
oh. and do you know if you can play it online?
As for your previous question, yes .. the Sim is designed for an RC racer so being able to change settings is key ... you can "feel" the different effects of setting changes.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Not the version they showed but I'd imagine that this is a future potential for development. Just doesn't make sense these days to NOT do it.
As for your previous question, yes .. the Sim is designed for an RC racer so being able to change settings is key ... you can "feel" the different effects of setting changes.
Not the version they showed but I'd imagine that this is a future potential for development. Just doesn't make sense these days to NOT do it.
As for your previous question, yes .. the Sim is designed for an RC racer so being able to change settings is key ... you can "feel" the different effects of setting changes.
Tech Adept
Have any of you tried the new servo saver, they say its giving better cornering speed, beacouse of less "ackerman"
and the new diff clamp?
and the new diff clamp?
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Not the version they showed but I'd imagine that this is a future potential for development. Just doesn't make sense these days to NOT do it.
As for your previous question, yes .. the Sim is designed for an RC racer so being able to change settings is key ... you can "feel" the different effects of setting changes.
Not the version they showed but I'd imagine that this is a future potential for development. Just doesn't make sense these days to NOT do it.
As for your previous question, yes .. the Sim is designed for an RC racer so being able to change settings is key ... you can "feel" the different effects of setting changes.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: New Rims
Originally posted by markp27
Supposed to be a real good racer and one hell of a guy
Supposed to be a real good racer and one hell of a guy
Can I get some more imput?
I am planning on going to my first big race in 3 weeks. The track is 1 1/2 times longer than the one I'm used to running. My straight is roughly 130 feet where this one is 250 plus, with more sweeping and flowing turns. What should I look to run for gearing. I run a NS12s3. Any set up imput would be great. This track is the same one the Gas nat's were at.
Thanks,
I am planning on going to my first big race in 3 weeks. The track is 1 1/2 times longer than the one I'm used to running. My straight is roughly 130 feet where this one is 250 plus, with more sweeping and flowing turns. What should I look to run for gearing. I run a NS12s3. Any set up imput would be great. This track is the same one the Gas nat's were at.
Thanks,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: New Rims
Originally posted by InitialD
Thank you.
Thank you.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: New Rims
Originally posted by markp27
And is very, very old...ist what I forgot to mention
And is very, very old...ist what I forgot to mention
Originally posted by nitro rookie
Can I get some more imput?
I am planning on going to my first big race in 3 weeks. The track is 1 1/2 times longer than the one I'm used to running. My straight is roughly 130 feet where this one is 250 plus, with more sweeping and flowing turns. What should I look to run for gearing. I run a NS12s3. Any set up imput would be great. This track is the same one the Gas nat's were at.
Thanks,
Can I get some more imput?
I am planning on going to my first big race in 3 weeks. The track is 1 1/2 times longer than the one I'm used to running. My straight is roughly 130 feet where this one is 250 plus, with more sweeping and flowing turns. What should I look to run for gearing. I run a NS12s3. Any set up imput would be great. This track is the same one the Gas nat's were at.
Thanks,
Put it this way, if a track has an average lap time of say 25 secs (which is pretty big), you will probably find that the straight might only take 3 or 4 secs, 5 max. This means the rest of the time it is the technical part of the track that takes time.
If there are more sweeping and flowing turns, use the one-way (unlocked). Adjust your brake settings so as NOT to lock your rear wheels at the most important braking point on that particular track.
Tighten your rear diff, even better ... use a solid rear if you can get hold of one (provided the track is not bumpy).
If there is enough grip, use as high a shore as possible.
Adjust your steering for best cornering only for this track. Take out excessive steering sesnsitivity so that you're not snaking around all over. I normally adjust the exponential rather than reduce my EPA.
As for gearing, try the stock ones first but have the 18-23 pinions and 59-55 spurs ready.
Finally ... practise, practise, practise.
Last edited by Sow&Steady; 09-17-2004 at 12:26 AM.
Originally posted by Finken
Have any of you tried the new servo saver, they say its giving better cornering speed, beacouse of less "ackerman"
and the new diff clamp?
Have any of you tried the new servo saver, they say its giving better cornering speed, beacouse of less "ackerman"
and the new diff clamp?
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Not yet but they're on their way.
Not yet but they're on their way.
Originally posted by markp27
Right, that's it - RING Time!
Right, that's it - RING Time!
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
It is not just the length of the straights that counts but also the layout.
Put it this way, if a track has an average lap time of say 25 secs (which is pretty big), you will probably find that the straight might only take 3 or 4 secs, 5 max. This means the rest of the time it is the technical part of the track that takes time.
If there are more sweeping and flowing turns, use the one-way (unlocked). Adjust your brake settings so as NOT to lock your rear wheels at the most important braking point on that particular track.
Tighten your rear diff, even better ... use a solid rear if you can get hold of one (provided the track is not bumpy).
If there is enough grip, use as high a shore as possible.
Adjust your steering for best cornering only for this track. Take out excessive steering sesnsitivity so that you're not snaking around all over. I normally adjust the exponential rather than reduce my EPA.
As for gearing, try the stock ones first but have the 18-23 pinions and 59-55 spurs ready.
Finally ... practise, practise, practise.
It is not just the length of the straights that counts but also the layout.
Put it this way, if a track has an average lap time of say 25 secs (which is pretty big), you will probably find that the straight might only take 3 or 4 secs, 5 max. This means the rest of the time it is the technical part of the track that takes time.
If there are more sweeping and flowing turns, use the one-way (unlocked). Adjust your brake settings so as NOT to lock your rear wheels at the most important braking point on that particular track.
Tighten your rear diff, even better ... use a solid rear if you can get hold of one (provided the track is not bumpy).
If there is enough grip, use as high a shore as possible.
Adjust your steering for best cornering only for this track. Take out excessive steering sesnsitivity so that you're not snaking around all over. I normally adjust the exponential rather than reduce my EPA.
As for gearing, try the stock ones first but have the 18-23 pinions and 59-55 spurs ready.
Finally ... practise, practise, practise.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Ooops! That's the doorbell. Too late Mark, the bits are here!
Ooops! That's the doorbell. Too late Mark, the bits are here!