the DLS has its place. i agree is a bit of extra weight, but you are silly to say it makes no difference. i can say with times and results to back it up, it is faster on a low to mid traction track. how much faster ? for me 0.4 faster avge.

Pulling out one engine and fitting another tonight, found the source of a slight weirdness setting my clutch, the little end insert on mine is drilled off center, you can see it from the end, and when you rotate it in something smooth it's certainly off center.

I'm not sure it effects the clutch in action, though it likely is not great for the trueness of how everything rotates around it, or maybe how it buts against the end of the engine shaft perhaps, not sure how I missed it during the build, weird quality control issue from Mugen.

You should be able to use an end shaft of any make of clutch; as long as it's not shorter that the original, if you are short of a replacement. You can shim the end play if the shaft is a little longer. Jeff would have one for sure.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

I had the same on one of my clutches, the other where drilled perefctly..
Clutch did not work good and was very unstable in operation

The clutch on the new Mugen is quite unique, the bell and gears are very long, meaning that end shaft insert is also possibly twice the length of anything else out there.

I'll run it as is right now, though will order a new bit asap, not sure what it was effecting, maybe nothing, maybe making it stick at some point in it's action.

I use Km pinion tool!!!, the only thing or small detail is that you need to dremmel a little the same adaptor use for mugen clutch bell to fit and is done!!!

for now i guess i will have to do that, ihave broken and bent allen L wrench since
on very tight pinions but til then ill guess ill have to stick to mine!

We have occurred in the Diff gear problem?

PROBLEMS WITH BRAKE
 

This brake system is install it like the manual says.. the car is ready to run. With the radio I apply the brake, (even with the hand) and don´t feel it so well, with dificulty continues rolling, i meant, the car don´t stop. I am checking again and again the manual and the system is build like the manual. somebody can give me a sugestion? The trims and substrims are ok. Thanks.

On mine I had the same, I sanded the pads a little as they where far from flat and after some driving to breake them in they are now good, they just take some time to breake inn so al of the pad presses against the disk

Just like on a real car the brake pads must be bedded in. If you do choose to sand them I would use 400 grit or finer paper. Do spray out the pads with brake cleaner to make sure there is NO oil, grease, finger prints etc. I would not sand them...

Yep, the brakes don't grip until bedded in, and they like a moderate amount of that, mine are good now, but they need an effort to start working well, and yes wipe off the brake hardware with meths, it's got oil on the rotor etc, and that is not great for a real style of brake compound.


I had my Mugen at the track last night, not racing it just running some track tests to see if what I did helped my issues, can't remember if I said but I drilled my front shock pistons with a second hole, and pushed in the top shock mounts.
Good news is it steers now, and has front end traction into and mid corner, so all good, working on larger setup but it's generally balanced now.

Thats good to know Bishop,I just dont understand what you did by pushing in the top shock mounts,you meant shock position or really pushing the top mount into the shock body?For the record I haven't received my car yet.

Que pasa pepe, hay que asentar los frenos pues...estan nuevos

Slds
Papo

I think you should check how you put together the brake assembly. The collars that center the pads can lock down one pad when they are tightened. They stop the brakes from working and the car will not stop.
Page 11
Part T2309A centers the pads and springs that keep the pads apart. Before you tighten this part make sure the pads move freely than tighten them down..