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Old 11-12-2013, 12:39 AM   #3001
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Anyone have any pics of how you mounted the low profile servos..?
Hello
I mount the Savox (1251 or 1252), but unfortunately I never took pictures on the assembly, even if it is the same as with normal ones.

this is a link to photos of my MTX5 on fb last Sunday

https://www.facebook.com/massimo.lor...01835474761532

bye.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:58 PM   #3002
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Default clutch adjustment

Hi Guys,

Just had a query about engine clutch adjustment on the MTX5. I normally wind it all the way in, then take it out 3/4 of a turn. I'm using the silver (super hard) spring. That's how I've done it for years now, but I'm realising that the clutch is engaging way too late. Obviously, I need it to still be punchy during racing, but also fire off the start line quickly. I'm just not getting that at the moment and I'm always playing catch up at the start because of how long the clutch takes to spool up. Any advice on proper clutch adjustment would be much appreciated. By how many turns out or mm is ideal?

Cheers,
Mick
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:40 PM   #3003
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we find that the nut just needs to be down a bit and set end play if you over tighten //like on 4r it will not work //I know there is a way to set it up but jeff dose baileys when we are at titles and it is spot on //mutch better than my gess but I have never found out how to do it right// just trial and error with the washers will learn to do it wright one day
greg
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:40 AM   #3004
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Hi Guys,

Just had a query about engine clutch adjustment on the MTX5. I normally wind it all the way in, then take it out 3/4 of a turn. I'm using the silver (super hard) spring. That's how I've done it for years now, but I'm realising that the clutch is engaging way too late. Obviously, I need it to still be punchy during racing, but also fire off the start line quickly. I'm just not getting that at the moment and I'm always playing catch up at the start because of how long the clutch takes to spool up. Any advice on proper clutch adjustment would be much appreciated. By how many turns out or mm is ideal?

Cheers,
Mick
hello I do so '.
Novarossi engine, distance flywheel nut-> end shaft 9.0 / 9.1
silver spring:
spring nut 0.3 mm below the amount of the flywheel nut.
shims bell -> strain (strain run-in) normally 0.55 / 0.60 (0.20 plus since the bell rotates freely from the stump) final game between bell and mushroom 0.2 maximum.
to me so it goes' very well.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:56 AM   #3005
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Default Help required

Hi Guys

I am having this problem that is effecting the car handling badly and I cannot solve the problem

I am truing the tires as follows but for some reason the front tires are not keeping the same level at race end but there is a 2mm differnce from the left to the right and we all know that they should be equal

Can you please advise if somebody noticed the problem and what is the solution because if have checked the car like 10 times and everything is perfect with no binding etc etc

This is how a true the tires for our track

Front Left Tire - 64mm
Front Right Tire - 62mm
Rear Left Tire - 66mm
Rear Right Tire - 64 mm

Also - I checked shocks, drop, ride height, ackerman, camber, plastics, aluminium etc etc

I am running 500,000 cst front diff and 80,000cst rear diff

PLEASE HELP ME
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:57 PM   #3006
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I'm no pro, but explain why they have to be equal at the end of a long main.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:03 PM   #3007
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we ran 42/ on front at nats/QLD and left front/42 was at least3mm small than right side/drivers and back were all over the shop depends on which way the corners go/fast/slow back were 5mm bigger than front /ended smaller by a fair bit
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:53 PM   #3008
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Originally Posted by Teamcastagna View Post
Hi Guys

I am having this problem that is effecting the car handling badly and I cannot solve the problem

I am truing the tires as follows but for some reason the front tires are not keeping the same level at race end but there is a 2mm differnce from the left to the right and we all know that they should be equal

Can you please advise if somebody noticed the problem and what is the solution because if have checked the car like 10 times and everything is perfect with no binding etc etc

This is how a true the tires for our track

Front Left Tire - 64mm
Front Right Tire - 62mm
Rear Left Tire - 66mm
Rear Right Tire - 64 mm

Also - I checked shocks, drop, ride height, ackerman, camber, plastics, aluminium etc etc

I am running 500,000 cst front diff and 80,000cst rear diff

PLEASE HELP ME
Unless your track has a bridge to create a figure of 8 then one side of the car will wear more than the other. And in your case with the lefts wearing more, you run anti-clockwise I assume? Front to rear is the same, the force of the acceleration loads the rear wheels more, hence more wear.

Before attempting to balance the wear it might be better to check why they wear. The best tip given to us is to look under the shell. If there's a lot of foam, one can assume your car is wheel spinning and not gaining traction.
Also inspect the type of wear, outer or inner, perhaps there's too much roll and with a 64mm tyre, I find it hard its not chunked if there's so much wear.

It's tough with a foam spec car to maintain good suspension geometry, I recommend buying 5 sets at a time and working through them in cycles. It keeps my suspension geometry the same through each cycle of the tyre set. Later I true as many as I can to a smaller setup and get at least two good runs from each set, some even more.

You have 500,000 in the front, it's almost locked, it will be very aggressive during "on power" acceleration. If your rear end is loose, then power sliding can also increase wear. Finally, the track may be abrasive and it amplifies wear characteristics... Yes, sadly it can be a waste of good tyres...Unless you are having a good time doing it!!
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:38 AM   #3009
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Unless your track has a bridge to create a figure of 8 then one side of the car will wear more than the other. And in your case with the lefts wearing more, you run anti-clockwise I assume? Front to rear is the same, the force of the acceleration loads the rear wheels more, hence more wear.

Before attempting to balance the wear it might be better to check why they wear. The best tip given to us is to look under the shell. If there's a lot of foam, one can assume your car is wheel spinning and not gaining traction.
Also inspect the type of wear, outer or inner, perhaps there's too much roll and with a 64mm tyre, I find it hard its not chunked if there's so much wear.

It's tough with a foam spec car to maintain good suspension geometry, I recommend buying 5 sets at a time and working through them in cycles. It keeps my suspension geometry the same through each cycle of the tyre set. Later I true as many as I can to a smaller setup and get at least two good runs from each set, some even more.

You have 500,000 in the front, it's almost locked, it will be very aggressive during "on power" acceleration. If your rear end is loose, then power sliding can also increase wear. Finally, the track may be abrasive and it amplifies wear characteristics... Yes, sadly it can be a waste of good tyres...Unless you are having a good time doing it!!
That is a very good explanation....I will do as advised..Many Thanks!!!
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:28 AM   #3010
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Default MTX6??

Hi Guys,

Let's give some life in this post.

The new chassys is coming very very soon....
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:37 AM   #3011
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Where can I get a side brace for this MTX5?
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:39 AM   #3012
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Hi Guys,

Let's give some life in this post.

The new chassys is coming very very soon....


That's great, I would of been happy to see a 4mm chassis
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:35 PM   #3013
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That's great, I would of been happy to see a 4mm chassis
Let's see if this will be the answer we are waiting the last three years...
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:20 PM   #3014
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I don't mean to complain or anything but if I had known that mugen would move at a snails pace to introduce new products that could possible help this car out,, I would have waited until they came with a revised version. Don't get me wrong , I love the car but if they don't fix their bubble gum soft chassis this year, I will have to move on to something else
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VBC Racing Wildfire D07 ~LRP Electronics ~ Fantom Racing
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:56 AM   #3015
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I don't mean to complain or anything but if I had known that mugen would move at a snails pace to introduce new products that could possible help this car out,, I would have waited until they came with a revised version. Don't get me wrong , I love the car but if they don't fix their bubble gum soft chassis this year, I will have to move on to something else
I understand your situation but I believe that the solution is very close ...
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