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Old 01-12-2013, 11:38 AM   #2626
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Doctor...explain how u do that??? I always have to take everything off to access the diffs....
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:44 PM   #2627
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Doctor...explain how u do that??? I always have to take everything off to access the diffs....
sure..

1. take off middle shaft bracket (releases belt)
2. take out forward clip on fuel tank
3. take off steering rod holder
4. take off shocks
5. take off antiroll bar holder and anti roll bar
6. take off front bumber assembly and disconnect both front upright's
7. take off the forward most outer screwes on the upper deck. (this releases the upper arms)
8. take off front upper arms

now you should be able to slide off the plastic bearing holders.. then proceed to slide off the bearings from the diff to the side.. like you did the plastic bearing holders... then you can pull out the front diff.

you dont even need to remove engine or disconnect steering assembly.. If you wanted to change the front belt too, all you would need to do is disconnect one of the steering arms.. hope this helps.. message me if you want a picture to go along with this
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:57 PM   #2628
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Originally Posted by doctormtx5 View Post
sure..

1. take off middle shaft bracket (releases belt)
2. take out forward clip on fuel tank
3. take off steering rod holder
4. take off shocks
5. take off antiroll bar holder and anti roll bar
6. take off front bumber assembly and disconnect both front upright's
7. take off the forward most outer screwes on the upper deck. (this releases the upper arms)
8. take off front upper arms

now you should be able to slide off the plastic bearing holders.. then proceed to slide off the bearings from the diff to the side.. like you did the plastic bearing holders... then you can pull out the front diff.

you dont even need to remove engine or disconnect steering assembly.. If you wanted to change the front belt too, all you would need to do is disconnect one of the steering arms.. hope this helps.. message me if you want a picture to go along with this
All that in 5 minutes? And put back together I'd love to see a you tube clip of that. . I reckon it's a good 15 minutes .


But getting back to my point, I've been running plastic fronts for a whole season and no problems. Just wondered how others had got on.

Steve H.
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:07 PM   #2629
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All that in 5 minutes? And put back together I'd love to see a you tube clip of that. . I reckon it's a good 15 minutes .


But getting back to my point, I've been running plastic fronts for a whole season and no problems. Just wondered how others had got on.

Steve H.
Yes 5 to 10min.. All depending how comfortable you are with the car. everything is easy to access And work on. I replace gears when needed. But always before main.
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:27 PM   #2630
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All that in 5 minutes? And put back together I'd love to see a you tube clip of that. . I reckon it's a good 15 minutes .


But getting back to my point, I've been running plastic fronts for a whole season and no problems. Just wondered how others had got on.

Steve H.

+1 , it's a easy 15 min, 20-30 on the nt1.
Plastic fronts all the way.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #2631
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we have run plastic gears /kit/ones in front diff since new onley changed oil twice so one set has done 2 NSW titles 3 QLD/1 nats +club days so they are lasting now they will strip for shore
greg
I can never get dam bearings off the diff so I just pull one side of like 4r I wish it took 5 mim
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:35 AM   #2632
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Hi All.

What´s your feedback about the new Mugen parts (Chassis, engine mount, spurs)?

Does it solve the stripping problems comletely? If so... Just the engine mount (?) or Mount/chassis, or monut/chassis/spurs?

Thanks in advance.

Luís cortez
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:51 PM   #2633
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Hi All.

What´s your feedback about the new Mugen parts (Chassis, engine mount, spurs)?

Does it solve the stripping problems comletely? If so... Just the engine mount (?) or Mount/chassis, or monut/chassis/spurs?

Thanks in advance.

Luís cortez
I think the new parts are great! If you scroll through the pages you will see that the new parts have helped with the stripping.
I am using both the new chasis and the engine mount and have yet to strip a gear ( about two hours of run time so far).
Hope this helps,
Steve
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:57 PM   #2634
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I think the new parts are great! If you scroll through the pages you will see that the new parts have helped with the stripping.
I am using both the new chasis and the engine mount and have yet to strip a gear ( about two hours of run time so far).
Hope this helps,
Steve
So are you using the new gears too.
Because I have heard the old ones are fine with the other fixes.

Steve h
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:11 PM   #2635
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I'm was using the old gears last season, as long as you do the fixes, old gears are fine. If you don't make the proper corrections, new gears will strip as well. Can't wait to start her up, just a few more months and ill be back in action.!
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:56 AM   #2636
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Thanks

Now that the problem seems to be solved, with original Mugen parts, next step will be to see, if and how, this changes (harder chassis...) will affect the excelent handeling of the car.

Best regards.

Luís
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:18 AM   #2637
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+1 , it's a easy 15 min, 20-30 on the nt1.
Plastic fronts all the way.
5 min on the NT1 both front and rear
6 screws front and 6 screws rear thats all.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:02 PM   #2638
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Have any of you guys run with a shorter wheel base. I have been hearing that some racers , especially overseas, are cutting front and rear arms 1 mm shorter for better turning on tight corners or smaller tracks.

Any one try this?
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:57 PM   #2639
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5 min on the NT1 both front and rear
6 screws front and 6 screws rear thats all.


The rear on the nt1 was easy but that front belt was always a pain in the as* for me especially the eccentric bushings for Adjusting the belt tension. Always took me 20-30 for a front belt. , but what do I know
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:26 PM   #2640
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Have any of you guys run with a shorter wheel base. I have been hearing that some racers , especially overseas, are cutting front and rear arms 1 mm shorter for better turning on tight corners or smaller tracks.

Any one try this?
I have I have and it works great
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