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Old 04-24-2012, 02:59 AM   #2011
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good idea but we will have to check gas rules on what is legal to fish with
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:08 AM   #2012
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Ok,
I had my first race with the mtx5 and the car was very good.I had a striped second but i think it was due to a hit on with one more car and that moved the engine a bit .
I found that you should but the mesh as close as posible with a litle to no gap but to check that it moves freely with no binding. No striping in the 30 min final and the gear was as new. I used the plastic gears in the diffs no problem , now they have about 2 liters of fuel in them. I am however going to rebuild them now with fresh silicone. I am using the xray shims for the diff which are a litle thicker as per instruction of a fellow member here , i thin he is seicick!! which i theank him for the tip!!
i am very happy with the car until now.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:18 PM   #2013
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Hello guys,

I had an MTX 5 since 2 months. I already stripped many 2nd gears. In my club, we are 7 guys to have MTX 5. All, we have broken the 2nd gear, with more or less frequencies, but we have broken gears.
We had the opportunity to make some experiences : very low brake, new complete gear box, new complete gear box with the axle, the shoes with the gap as recommended, new clutch, new pinions....even, we mount a new car (T2002) with everything new and we have broken the second gear by making less than 2 laps.
As we exchange the elements, we can say that it doesn’t come from the gear box. And not from the clutch, and not from the flex.
Our last experience was very interesting. In a complete new car, we have mounted the complete gear box with axle, coming from another MTX-5 working very well. After two laps, we broke the second gear. We inspected the car and the only reason that we saw : it’s not the play that you can have (adjusted in the second gear is a good thing) between your second gear and your big pinion. Because, you can adjust very close and you will brake your second gear, and very soon. The most important is to have your motor parallel to your gear box axle. Like that you will offer the bigger surface possible to your 2nd gear with the pinion. We only changed that, we made 50 laps and the second gear is like new.
This point is very sensible and I am afraid that the material of the gears are too hard plastic, nothing flexible like gears from Capricorn, even NT1. And regrettably, hard doesn’t mean unbreakable in this case, but the opposite. I do,n’t know if I am fully right but I hope that Mugen will find a faster solution because the car is fantastic but several guys already think to change because this problem.
At first, we also tested the brace to save the second gears but same result. Besides, the car doesn’t work with the brace and you lose a lot of steering.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:07 PM   #2014
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The gearbox looks a lot like xray. Maybe the spur holders will fit with some small adjustments and then you can use xray spurs?? Just until mugen has the problem solved.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:39 AM   #2015
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..Problems partially solved by aligning engine mounts with change/ axis. Thickness between first and second gears.
Keep new sprockets and clutch.

There is a problem of plastic gears. There is an overheating clutch problem.

Pietsch solutions to the problems of broken ":

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...6602190&type=3

Last edited by nazarc; 04-25-2012 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:45 AM   #2016
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Hello,

Yes, the gear box is very similar to NT1 one, but regrettably the spurs are not the same. On MTX-5, second spur is 47 – 48 or 49T. On the NT1, second spur is 53 – 54 or 55T. Ratios are completely different. Besides, with less teeth on the second spur for Mugen, each tooth of the spur is more used. Look your pinion 15T and your pinion 20T on your clutch after 2 – 3 liters, you will understand what I want to mean about the wear when we have less teeth.
Anyway, until Mugen solved this matter (I stay thinking it’s mainly a material problem), may be some guys (Seisick, TomB...) can have some tips to well align the engine (parallel to the gear box axle) and to avoid the stripping of this second gear.
Good day from Paris, guys.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:03 AM   #2017
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Solution
Attached Thumbnails
MTX 5-395454_270351706370714_100001876602190_645583_140078985_n.jpg   MTX 5-396374_270351773037374_100001876602190_645584_1973244155_n.jpg   MTX 5-406448_270351849704033_100001876602190_645588_844662993_n.jpg   MTX 5-421380_270351819704036_100001876602190_645586_823233347_n.jpg   MTX 5-426551_270351799704038_100001876602190_645585_1543802876_n.jpg  

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Old 04-25-2012, 05:03 AM   #2018
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....
Attached Thumbnails
MTX 5-427022_270351679704050_100001876602190_645582_1782054949_n.jpg  
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:08 AM   #2019
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Problem. The instruction manual is not correct for mounting of change/gear. The centrifugal weights must mount on the contrary.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:53 AM   #2020
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hi on our 5 pinions wore out /2 a point and this damages plastic gears //on 4r it dos not mater as much if your track is dirty you will wear out pinions early but make sure you change pin//and gears at one time smouth 2 gear change is important not to much 1 gear//to long at our track and you get 2 hard or it changes in corner and you get 2 gears at once //striping 2make sure gears or not rubbing together move bearing or space with washer black bit on end of clutch was drilled of center on some of the kits in QLD //look at engine mounts 2 see if they are parallel been some of them when you get it all right car will be good ///make sure you grease out drives i think that is what is making our diffs to tight greg
get rid of all non mugen words and i hope it makes better sense last bit is four later post non offence taken

Last edited by greg.dawn; 04-25-2012 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:33 AM   #2021
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Thanks for the drawings.

Indeed, the very important point is the width of gears used properly.
The play is important between spurs and pinions, like in the drawing. Important too the alignment between spurs and pinions. But I think the most important is the paralell alignement between the engine and the gear box axle to offer the most surface workable on the 2nd Spur.
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MTX 5-alignment.jpg  
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:28 PM   #2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR28 View Post
Hello,

Yes, the gear box is very similar to NT1 one, but regrettably the spurs are not the same. On MTX-5, second spur is 47 – 48 or 49T. On the NT1, second spur is 53 – 54 or 55T. Ratios are completely different. Besides, with less teeth on the second spur for Mugen, each tooth of the spur is more used. Look your pinion 15T and your pinion 20T on your clutch after 2 – 3 liters, you will understand what I want to mean about the wear when we have less teeth.
Anyway, until Mugen solved this matter (I stay thinking it’s mainly a material problem), may be some guys (Seisick, TomB...) can have some tips to well align the engine (parallel to the gear box axle) and to avoid the stripping of this second gear.
Good day from Paris, guys.
well, ive sent the guide to two fellow member of this thread, lets see how they go and if it helped, i hope they can share their findings!
now a fellow member who has never stripped a spur, he loved the kicking on the chasis when 2 speed engages, but as i mentioned to him, it will lead to stripping! so he just went to test and found out about it! and he stripped the gear for his first time! and he even used a nice carbon handmade chasis! so i guess that found out the setting that he should be using on his 2 speed shoes so to have kicking on the chasis but no stripping !
as for me, i prefer the very suave engaging of the 2 speed, no kiciking at all, just the change on the engine noise!

good luck
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:44 PM   #2023
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as you have said nice smooth change is good for gear change as with mtx4r but i still say it is not all user prob and till mugen admits this we can all get on with fixing there problems or put it under the mower as i suggested in past post
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:47 PM   #2024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg.dawn View Post
hi on our 5 pinions wore out /2 a point and this damages plastic gears //on 4r it dos not mater as much if your track is dirty you will wear out pinions early but make sure you change pin//and gears at one time smouth 2 gear change is important not to much 1 gear//to long at our track and you get 2 hard or it changes in corner and you get 2 gears at once //striping 2make sure gears or not rubbing together move bearing or space with washer black bit on end of clutch was drilled of conter on some of the kits in QLD //look at engen mounts 2 see if they are parrell been some of them when you get it all right car will be good ///make sure you grease out drives i think that is what is making our diffs to tight greg
I know there's some great suggestions in this post. But I'll be damned if I can read it. Just a little sentence structure would really help you share your experience.
Meant with the utmost respect.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:04 PM   #2025
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sorry if i get people confused at 63 i get every one confused if you pull all that post apart and reassemble it the way it should be it will probably make sense get rid of all non mugen bits //we have our 5 pretty good now //not sure about diffs i think it is outdrive problems to tight in diff casing lots of luck with this post i tried 2 send you privet message but it said you weren't registered or some thing no problem with not being able 2 decipher it i have lots o fun trying to say what i mean
greg

Last edited by greg.dawn; 04-26-2012 at 02:05 AM.
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