Give me a min, just doing a copy and upload to my own site so I can post some direct pics in here...

http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/MTX5/geartips01.jpg
http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/MTX5/geartips02.jpg
http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/MTX5/geartips03.jpg
http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/MTX5/geartips04.jpg
http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/MTX5/geartips05.jpg
http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/MTX5/geartips06.jpg

hi all.. same as what i'm doing with my 4R.. no stripping issues :nod:

New Kit
 

Any word as to when the new kit(T2002) will be out?

It's actually out already, Japan has had stock for a couple of weeks, but my guess is other countries importers won't buy stock until they run out the old model.

I still can't figure out the rear upper bulkhead changes for the new parts, can't see anything wrong with the old/original.

mtx5
 

at least when you pulled 4r apart you would always find some thing wrong played with baileys car to day dam savox is buggerd all ready at least ace lasted 4 years

What's busted Greg?, the Savox are rebuildable to a point, replacement case is about $6, replacement gearset is $15-$25 depending on model.

Savox were never going to have the durability of the Ace, in part cause they are not built like the Ace, but they weight a lot less, and cost half the price.

I have a few spares servos if you need one quick!
 

I have a few spares servos if you need one quick!

I also have one with motor thats shot so the gears are good you could have them if you need.

Steve H

savox
 

ex/brake shakes all over the place if you stop it in wrong place it stays there no chep if onley 3 mounts old ace were over4 years old

Greg usually throttle servos fail when the endpoints are set incorrectly. ask someone at the track to help you set it up mate.:nod:

The rear diff uses a different plastic (bigger size) hence the new bulkheads and carbon brace (to allow the diff to clear).

Speaking of diffs, I just finished the postmortem on my rear diff, no destructive failure like a few posted with pins chewing out the backs of the larger gears, the smaller gears in mine simply wore out...

Interesting observation while doing the rebuild, plastic gears make a 27 gram diff, replaced with metal it's now 38 grams, quite a weight change to the cars driveline, I'm guessing if your out for every last scrap of power, you'd run the plastics and rebuild a few times during a major meet?.

And I have to say, all the hype of other brands, but every time I work on my five, I'm reminded why I still think it's the best car out there, and don't regret buying it for a second, cause it's just so easy to work on...

Could it be that the gears were running a bit thight. i have used the plastic gears (from cap)in my diffs also but noticed the pin was eating away in the slot from the larger gears. Replaced only those and ran the whole season without replacing them. Then its not that much weight more. Maybe you can try it. (i run the NT1 though, also a good car)

nice tutorial on the clutch by the way. :)

servos
 

i have no prob with end point adj as it bends chassis if to much but thanks tom

Any experienced racer should know this without a tutorial.....

What I am missing is that the endplay in the clutch can be a disturbing factor to line up the gears. you have to pull the clutchbell from the flywheel to be sure to get the right position when the clutch is engadged.