iMax02

Hey... locknuts on the rear toe links... that doesn't seem like such a bad idea.

SpeedyOB-4

What tires are they using?

patelladragger

look like jaco's to me.

SpeedyOB-4

Do you know what size or compound?

EngenZerO

Those are Jaco Nitro Shoes...they come in front and rear compounds...I think they maybe running 40 front and 40 rear like they did at the nationals, but that was the nationals and the weather is different at this time...I see he is using the stock set up (yellow/red)...I think at the nationals they had red springs in the front and copper in the rear...so they could be using 45 front and 40 rear...dunno though? Just speculation atm...lol...but those are nitro shoes...

OB42TC3

I can rule out crashing as the cause personally, because I only **usually** make a mistake every 30 minutes or so and it is usually something very minor. I've been racing all season and I just broke my first diff case at the Mentor MWS. In gas touring I make it a priority to keep the car together. Anyway, that HPI electric proto is using TC3 drivetrain with so 'sealed' gear cases, I don't think the gears would have a problem with the debris.

OB42TC3

The traction is probably through the roof for this event (it wasn't really at Nats). It sure was at last year's pre-worlds. I ended up using MS extra hard's in the front for that.

NTC3NUT

They are running Nitro Shoes, 40 front/40 rear, 28mm front/30mm rear. Travis's car was the only one with a set-up similar to the books, the rest of the cars where set-up like they where for the Nat's. The toe-links where newly made. Bill Easton gave me this info:

-tie rods longer than stock (did not specify), with freshly cut threads, they did not roll the threads to make them smoother like the stock/factory team tie rods, more bite this way

-not lock nuts, just standard nuts, but all 4 also freshly
drilled and tapped, 2 with reverse threads of course

-drilled and tapped all 4 of the 6/32 ballends to accept
2/56 buttonhead screws, then slotted the stock ball cups
to allow proper up/down travel

I know it seems like alot of work, but if they where all using it
that must be the way to go (I guess we'll see, right?). I'll drop you a quick note tomorrow on the dual chamber mod.

bbntc3

Crashes are'nt my issue with the pinions either. I have only replaced 2 diff cases, bent 2 pivot balls and broke 1 hub, since the car came out and race almost each week. You need to remember all the torque goes through the pinion and its smaller in diameter then the ring so it will always be the weaker of the 2 links. I use dielectric greese for lube on the diff gears and it seems to have good heat transfer but wears out fast, so diffs must be pm'd alittle more than usual. The rear toe end looks good and sorta easy to due. I had some thundertiger 1/8 scale buggies and the steering link is almost a direct interchange to the captured ball end deal, the captured ends and the turnbuckle works perfect and theres plenty of room for movement.

Big Pete

Hi guys, I'm pretty new to this forum, I've been reading thro' all the posts thats a lot of reading!
One thing I noticed yesterday at our local track (small low grip and tight) was how unstable my ntc3 was
I tried different set ups and different tyres but to no avail. Wondering if you guys could help?
I used Take off CS27's HPI15/40's PitD20's and could not find any grip, weather was warm and sunny.
Car setup was as per the manual for rubber, apart from springs- red front, blue rear. The way I would describe its handling would be non existant. The car oversteered under power(Collari xs 12 slide carb, might be me to heavy with my thumb) and snapped round under braking making it very hard to drive. I moved the arms to the optional position but never got to try it as my starter box packed in
If I race it during the winter series I need a car that is very stable as grip levels are even lower.
Any tips for a newbie?? I do know one thing, I have to lower the gearing on it...
Thanks for any info,
Pete.

island-guy

Are you guys still having problems with shock towers getting knocked loose? I had problems with my shocktowers getting knocked loose from rough and tumble racers and I finally have bullet proofed my shock towers. I've been using reinforcing posts and after a two months of racing it's still as solid as the day I installed them and i really feel that the car's suspension works much better. It feels so much more consistent and I don't want anyone to ever not get one of these cars because of this one significant weakpoint. If enough of you guys want them I have enough material left to make a bunch of them. I'm pretty sure the shock tower will snap before it dares to loosen.

island-guy

Shocktower pics

EngenZerO

heh...this is how I did mine...$1.75 fix...



big pete...try reversing your springs and see what happens...I was under the impression that stiffer front looser rear...only exception is extremely high traction conditions like joyce park...

oz

NTC3NUT

Hi guys. I reposted a picture of Travis's car here to explain the dual chamber muffler mod the Team was using during Worlds practice. Really simple. They either had mufflers without the original pressure port or they had the original plugged. They then drilled a new port in the front of the muffler. According to Bill this lower pressure chamber is supposed to provide a smoother, more constant pressure to the tank. It's supposed to alleviate any high speed leaning, and improve motor performance. He did say that it hasn't been proven to be the "end all" mod, but they're happy with it so far. They where also all running the new tanks. Just FYI.

P.S. Have you guys seen the Teams practice lap times? They are tearing it up!

NTC3NUT

Mike, Scroll up a little further on page 47, I have the info on the toe-link mods already posted. Here's another link to check out for photos from the Worlds.

http://www.myrcworld.net/events/imggal.asp?eid=611


I also have several photos posted on the Worlds thread on this site, check them out.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...5&pagenumber=2

Scroll down to the bottom to see them.