Solara

iTrader: (17)

Very very good catch, I did not think about that very important spot, so it doesn't work............doesn't matter for me, I have 2 long screws bolt in with a washer, (don't even have chance to use my FIX) and have the NTC3 for like good 2.5 years to 3.........I have not break 1 single shock tower on my NTC3....(I have to say, I did not crash a lot on the track while racing cause I rarely make it to the top 3 spot at the local A main racing...)

squarehead

iTrader: (75)

It was called a spool because it resembled a wooden spool of thread. You guys have sewed on buttons, haven't you?

So after all this time, has anyone developed a gear/diffset that can withstand the power of nitro cars? The topic seems to have faded away a bit. No aftermarket companies have made a better mousetrap?


Something that hasn't been touched on much is aero. What bodies are a lot of you guys using on your cars?

silverM3

iTrader: (1)

a very dumb question. Is the TC4 hopups compatible on a TC3? THx.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Go to TC4 thread and find out, but I think I saw more then 1 times TC4 owner said the TC4 parts are LOOK very similar to TC3 but a lot of the size, location are NOT exactly the same as TC3, so the answer is NO...sorry.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

You raced at Hobby Town St. Charles...? Just wondering...........
For nitro...only 2 bodies...Mazda 6 or Stratus 3.1 (for me only) both from PF, unless MWS will allow LOLA on 200mm outlaw, then Frewers LOLA.

squarehead

iTrader: (75)

Nope, I'm a long-time dirt oval guy with plans to race gas asphalt again with my brother in the next couple of months. I raced 4wd 1/8th scale in the late 80s for a while, but the competition then was weak.

I do live about 5 minutes from the Hobby Town in St. Charles. I think the plans are to eventually run the new facility in Joliet, along with Dekalb and Tinley.



doug

rally

would any of these parts fit on a ntc3?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../rccars008.jpg

or any tc3 parts for that matter?

jiml

iTrader: (3)

All of those parts appear to be for an electric TC3. They won't fit the nitro car.

Baudler

iTrader: (2)

What have you guys done to your cars to fix these items:

Front spool breaking teeth off...can't drive a one way...

Front outer axle bearings exploding...

Any words of wisdom?????

I just can't run for more than 5 minutes without problems occuring. Is it time to change brands?

NTC3Kitty

Those aluminum ball cups, and the ATD outdrives look like they would fit the NTC3, am I right?

RC Paperboy

I got a used NTC3 at the start of this year and Ive had it out about 5 times so far. Ive had a few issues, some very specific things that keep happening.

I've broken about 5 axles - they are 3racing axles, and I crack them off right where the pin that holds the hex adapter on goes. Has this happened to anyone else?

I rebuilt the whole car after a couple of weeks, and when i did the brakes, i noticed a lot of grime on teh brake pads. I wiped them off with alcohol and rinsed them, but there was a lot of ground in sandy stuff in teh rubber pads. Now when I brake, it seems to be less effective. Especially coming in to pit, it seems to take me twice as far as everyone else to stop. Should I sand the surface of the pads?

Thanks

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Baulder- on the spool, you can get used to hurting stuff until you quit hitting pipes, but to fix the teeth breaking, you should shim the diff bearings to where there is zero lash, then add one more shim. It will be tight and the drivetrain won't want to spin freely, but the gears will break-in and free up some, and should minimize tooth breakage. If you stay off the pipes it will eliminate breaking teeth.

On the out hub bearings, again, hitting pipes with all that power being applied it devistating to the bearings.. no matter how expensive the bearings. Assuming you can't majically snap your fingers and run a perfect line every lap, you should check the hub bearings after EVERy race race dayto see if they start to feel gritty. When they do, just replace them. Avid Bearings has the hub bearings for $1 each. Don't bother trying to clean them and crap, just chunk 'em in the trash and put a new one in, that way you don't have to worry if it's hurt.

RCPaperboy- the pads are cheap, replace them. Give up on the axles- they are the titanium ones, right? Waste of money. Get some stock steel axles and they will almost never break. There is a huge misconception about titanium- it's light, but it isn't very strong. Good steel or hardened steel is MUCH stronger. Titanium isn't much harder than aluminum. We are putting down WAY too much power especially with the newer motors to be running soft metal on the high strain parts like axles.

Fathead- thanks for the tip on the TC4 dogdones. I knew they were much beefier, but it never occurred to me that they would be a direct fit!!! I ordered 2 sets off ebay and got them for $36 shipped!

bbntc3

We've tried every cvd out there in 3 years and broke or twisted all of them out. And it's not from hitting pipes or boards! Like stated don't waiste your money on any Titanium ones they really suck! I've found that the steel RTR cvds seem to hold up the best. We always break the front cvds because of the solid diff. The RTR cvds have been in the car all season so far so good!!! As for the diff gears, shimming does'nt really help just maybe prolongs it for a few runs. About a month ago the track had so much bite we stripped 3 front diffs, shimmed everyway you could shim them. A friend told me to try ETC3 gears without the friction disc in them. And guess what, we have'nt stripped a diff in 4 weeks of racing. I've even went as far as reaming the ETC3 gears to fit the solid and it has'nt stripped either. Theres less flex without the friction disc on ball diffs so I'll have to say it would have to help stripping problems but the solid?? The ETC3 gears looks like the teeth maybe alittle thicker and the color of material is alittle different. All I can say is its working for us so far on short tracks! Long tracks maybe different it may cause the diff to heat real fast, not sure on that one, someone else try it on a long track just to see if its better.

AndyT ©

I`ve certainly bent and twisted my fair share of the FT front aluminium CVDS......even snapped one clean in half whilst accelerating down a long main straight (and this was running only a stock RB V12)......I could only begin to imagine the carnage a modified motor could do to these cvd`s

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Anyone experimented using CF brake disks and pads? If so how, where they effective?