2LikesRc10ntc3
06-06-2005, 04:09 PM
#8056
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Not true, however, this is a case to case situation.........not all the diff case molded the same, so the idea of the shimming is trying to get the dff gear as close to the drive pinion gear (the mushroom shape gear) but without binding...
On my 1 way, I have 1 shim on each side (per manual setting).......I doubt you can do without any shimming.....sometime, IF you have to add more then 1 shimming on 1 of the side, I would say the side you have to add extra shimming should be the DIFF GEAR side cause you want to push the diff gear more TOWARD the mushroom pinion gear.....
Again, the key is push in but NOT binding.....also, you will need diff grease every week (I re-work/clean my car every week after Sunday race..)
P.S...if you are using the AE HD 1 way....good luck finding extra shimming for that weird size 1-way, the bearing and the shim (that came with the kit) is a ODD size that AE does not sell the parts of it, and you cannot buy or replace the bearing or the shim unless you are buying the whole 1-way $45.00.
On my 1 way, I have 1 shim on each side (per manual setting).......I doubt you can do without any shimming.....sometime, IF you have to add more then 1 shimming on 1 of the side, I would say the side you have to add extra shimming should be the DIFF GEAR side cause you want to push the diff gear more TOWARD the mushroom pinion gear.....
Again, the key is push in but NOT binding.....also, you will need diff grease every week (I re-work/clean my car every week after Sunday race..)
P.S...if you are using the AE HD 1 way....good luck finding extra shimming for that weird size 1-way, the bearing and the shim (that came with the kit) is a ODD size that AE does not sell the parts of it, and you cannot buy or replace the bearing or the shim unless you are buying the whole 1-way $45.00.
I want to add more info to this thread. I did not want to start an argument here...
I just bought the weird size bearing for AE HD 1way from RC-Mushroom. Here is the LINK. But it is impossible to buy the shims. I'm still looking for alternatives.
As for gear mesh, I put 2 shims on the gear side, and none one the other side. I followed the instruction to shim the input drive pinion gear. But I added one more shim on the side of input drive cup. (I just replaced the gear box. right now the gear mesh is perfect.) Sometimes, I also change the bearings for the front input drive shaft if I found them have a lot of play. And
I do re-grease the diff gears before every race like Solara does.
Usually, if you strip the diff gear (even one teeth) in less than 3 tanks of fuel (driving it like you were racing), it means you did not shim the gear correctly (might be too tight or too loose). The diff gears should have worn out first before stripping their tooth. If that happens, you need to re-check the gear mesh and the bearings. Sometimes, you also need to check the center floating shaft to see if it is bent. Also, you need to pay attention to the brake/drive cup. Sometimes the pins on the brake/drive cup will get loose and will bind the brake/drive cup. If that heappens, the center floating shaft will not stay center, it will be whopping when it is rotating; therefore, the front diff gear mesh will be changed, too. These are my experience, hope they help.
06-06-2005, 06:00 PM
#8057
Originally Posted by wangcc61
I have tried taking 2 clutch weights out, but the clutch did not want to fully engaged. I have also tried to loosen the rear diff, it help a bit, but over-heated the diff.
I want to try to let the clutch engage at a lower rpm to smooth out the power. I have tried to loose the adjust nut so much that it already hit the bearing inside the clutch bell, but that did not help. So I'm thinking to install a softer clutch spring will help. If you get the result of using k-factory spring, please let me know.
I want to try to let the clutch engage at a lower rpm to smooth out the power. I have tried to loose the adjust nut so much that it already hit the bearing inside the clutch bell, but that did not help. So I'm thinking to install a softer clutch spring will help. If you get the result of using k-factory spring, please let me know.
To get the clutch to engage earlier, you ideally want heavier weights if they`re available.
Cheers
06-06-2005, 06:20 PM
#8058
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by AndyT ©
Taking weights out of the clutch will make it engage at higher rpm......thats why your clutch wouldnt fully engage.
To get the clutch to engage earlier, you ideally want heavier weights if they`re available.
Cheers
To get the clutch to engage earlier, you ideally want heavier weights if they`re available.
Cheers
06-06-2005, 08:42 PM
#8059
Originally Posted by wangcc61
Solara,
I want to add more info to this thread. I did not want to start an argument here...
I just bought the weird size bearing for AE HD 1way from RC-Mushroom. Here is the LINK. But it is impossible to buy the shims. I'm still looking for alternatives.
As for gear mesh, I put 2 shims on the gear side, and none one the other side. I followed the instruction to shim the input drive pinion gear. But I added one more shim on the side of input drive cup. (I just replaced the gear box. right now the gear mesh is perfect.) Sometimes, I also change the bearings for the front input drive shaft if I found them have a lot of play. And
I do re-grease the diff gears before every race like Solara does.
Usually, if you strip the diff gear (even one teeth) in less than 3 tanks of fuel (driving it like you were racing), it means you did not shim the gear correctly (might be too tight or too loose). The diff gears should have worn out first before stripping their tooth. If that happens, you need to re-check the gear mesh and the bearings. Sometimes, you also need to check the center floating shaft to see if it is bent. Also, you need to pay attention to the brake/drive cup. Sometimes the pins on the brake/drive cup will get loose and will bind the brake/drive cup. If that heappens, the center floating shaft will not stay center, it will be whopping when it is rotating; therefore, the front diff gear mesh will be changed, too. These are my experience, hope they help.
I want to add more info to this thread. I did not want to start an argument here...
I just bought the weird size bearing for AE HD 1way from RC-Mushroom. Here is the LINK. But it is impossible to buy the shims. I'm still looking for alternatives.
As for gear mesh, I put 2 shims on the gear side, and none one the other side. I followed the instruction to shim the input drive pinion gear. But I added one more shim on the side of input drive cup. (I just replaced the gear box. right now the gear mesh is perfect.) Sometimes, I also change the bearings for the front input drive shaft if I found them have a lot of play. And
I do re-grease the diff gears before every race like Solara does.
Usually, if you strip the diff gear (even one teeth) in less than 3 tanks of fuel (driving it like you were racing), it means you did not shim the gear correctly (might be too tight or too loose). The diff gears should have worn out first before stripping their tooth. If that happens, you need to re-check the gear mesh and the bearings. Sometimes, you also need to check the center floating shaft to see if it is bent. Also, you need to pay attention to the brake/drive cup. Sometimes the pins on the brake/drive cup will get loose and will bind the brake/drive cup. If that heappens, the center floating shaft will not stay center, it will be whopping when it is rotating; therefore, the front diff gear mesh will be changed, too. These are my experience, hope they help.
Like others told me, heavier fjy weight might solve the problem, just like thinner (softer) clutch spring too...however, finding the clutch spring is a little bit easier then the heavier fly weigh, and somehow I do find this K-factory one...which is 1.4mm instead of 1.8mm. Remember, this K-factory one is for thier own CENTAX, if that is what the NTC3 is using, I think that might work with our mugen syntec....remember, BELT car can take a little bit more punch then shaft car, shaft car is more DIRECT contact, belt has the belt fliction to smooth out the punch....(don't really know how to express that in writing...you guys knwo what I mean)...
Once I have it, I will give that a try....when I was using the regular spring, I was using silver springs, 30W oil, and 30 shores foams...........car is barely about to drive and just barely has any traction.....a little bit heavier exiting the corner, it will spin out.....
PS...to solve your problem, get rid of the centax and use 2 shoes or 3 shoes or like me, the MIP clutch......wait untill I figured out the K-facotry spring, then you can try the Mugen Clutch again...........my car was dialed right after I change back to MIP clutch without even change setting, only a little bit short on the speed compare to those 710 RRR.......when I was using the Mugen's 22/29 with 48/54, the straight line speed was ballastic......
06-07-2005, 02:49 AM
#8060
Some people have been experimenting by running bearing balls in the holes of the clutch weights to help increase their weight and delay engagement of the clutch.
I`ve never tried this myself, but it may be something to try out whilst waiting for heavier weights to arrive.
I`ve never tried this myself, but it may be something to try out whilst waiting for heavier weights to arrive.
06-07-2005, 02:49 AM
#8061
Some people have been experimenting by running bearing balls in the holes of the clutch weights to help increase their weight and speed-up engagement of the clutch.
I`ve never tried this myself, but it may be something to try out whilst waiting for heavier weights to arrive.
I`ve never tried this myself, but it may be something to try out whilst waiting for heavier weights to arrive.
06-07-2005, 02:51 AM
#8062
Darn typos 
....should read "speed-up the clutch engagement".
....should read "speed-up the clutch engagement".
06-07-2005, 07:28 PM
#8065
Does anyone know if there is a spool made for the NTC3? Where can I find one?
06-07-2005, 07:49 PM
#8066
Registered User
We're using K factory clutchs some are lightened some are not very good results much better than stock Ae stuff. And it has hardened flywheel which is also a big plus. Anyone having touble with ring and pinions stripping you might want to try the whit etc3 gears with out the friction disc, we've been using them for last 3 weeks with good results. I've also been reaming the hole out in center to adapt the ETC3 ring to the spool also with better results.
The solid spool Ae part, just have to look the part number up. Tower Hobby did stock it. I think the peart number for the K clutch is K-1238 for s/g shaft engines and 1239 for standard shaft engines. The K NTC3 clutch also works well in the GT trucks with just a smallamount of massaging to make fit. Bob
The solid spool Ae part, just have to look the part number up. Tower Hobby did stock it. I think the peart number for the K clutch is K-1238 for s/g shaft engines and 1239 for standard shaft engines. The K NTC3 clutch also works well in the GT trucks with just a smallamount of massaging to make fit. Bob
Last edited by bbntc3; 06-07-2005 at 08:20 PM.
06-07-2005, 08:18 PM
#8069
Thanks guys for the info for some reason I couldn't find it. Ordered one today.
06-08-2005, 04:17 AM
#8070
Tech Adept
Hi Wang,
Thanks for all the info so far. I'm sorry If this has already been bought up, but if I wish to install the Mugen Centax in my NTC3 I would need to use:
1. Mugen Centax Clutch Kit (does this include the flywheel?)
2. Required pinions (0.8)?
3. Factory Team non-pullstart engine mounts.
Is this correct? If I need any other items, such as shims, could you let me know. Thankyou very much in advance.
Thanks for all the info so far. I'm sorry If this has already been bought up, but if I wish to install the Mugen Centax in my NTC3 I would need to use:
1. Mugen Centax Clutch Kit (does this include the flywheel?)
2. Required pinions (0.8)?
3. Factory Team non-pullstart engine mounts.
Is this correct? If I need any other items, such as shims, could you let me know. Thankyou very much in advance.