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Old 01-09-2005, 09:07 AM   #7456
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Originally posted by i300i
HPI bullet-proof MIP CVDs
Thanks, I have heard flattening the pin before, but have never tried it. I like the goo part on the pins. I do use fast drying dynamite glue on the pins at the ends of the cvds. They are replaceable, and once replaced, the pin can come loose.
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Old 01-09-2005, 05:36 PM   #7457
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Quote:
Originally posted by reddishdsb
Just got a ntc3 #2033 will have sirio power what other hop ups do you guys think I need to do to bullet proof this car?
I have heard some say this car wont turn in.
I`d go with "the fix" or the K-factory aluminium shock mount with carbon tower (Part #1243) to solve the problem that the NTC3 has of the shock tower getting ripped out of the top of the diff case.
I`d go with a side chassis brace (3-racing, part #ntc3012) to stop the pipe getting forced into the fuel tank and shattering it in the event of a side-on collision.
I`m also no big fan of the plastic front input shaft cup, so i`d recommend to replace this with the K-factory aluminium version.....and while youre at it, may as well pop in the aluminium brake drive cup too
In my opinion the Factory Team car turns in very well when off-power, this allows it to get the full benefit of the front one-way.
On-power, I`d say it has a bit of a push.
Cheers
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Old 01-09-2005, 06:38 PM   #7458
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Thanks will start there and see how it goes.
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Old 01-09-2005, 08:20 PM   #7459
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I tried the GPM Ti cvds, don't waiste your money!!! The titanium is light and good but where the they are pinned will wear out in a very very short time. I wore both front and rear sets out in less than 1/2 a gallon of fuel, and theres no replacement parts. But... They never twisted or bent. You can get them from HK for less then $30 shipped if you look around, but I don't think they are worth much
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Old 01-10-2005, 02:47 AM   #7460
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Can anyone tell me if the K-factory alum. front bumper(k1245) is any good.I keep breaking my original plastic version and I'm wondering if I should just buy a couple of plastic ones or go for the expesive alum. one
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Old 01-10-2005, 05:43 AM   #7461
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Originally posted by JosB
Can anyone tell me if the K-factory alum. front bumper(k1245) is any good.I keep breaking my original plastic version and I'm wondering if I should just buy a couple of plastic ones or go for the expesive alum. one
The K Factory one is good. But if you are breaking the stock one the alloy wont help you, instead of breaking, you will shear the screws off where it mounts to the chassis. Stick with plastic untill you dont hit as many things
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Old 01-10-2005, 05:47 AM   #7462
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On the subject of CVDs I just got a pair of the 3 Racing ones. I tested them in a 2.4 hour enduro & they held up fine. They are cheap as anything. I got them from www.precisionrc.com , although I havent had too many probs with stock. I will also say the GPM ones are shit, they cost me a big race win last year
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:42 PM   #7463
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Quote:
Originally posted by soc123_au
On the subject of CVDs I just got a pair of the 3 Racing ones. I tested them in a 2.4 hour enduro & they held up fine. They are cheap as anything. I got them from www.precisionrc.com , although I havent had too many probs with stock. I will also say the GPM ones are shit, they cost me a big race win last year
YOU say no more...those TITANIUM universal from GPM are made with water mixed with paper.....talk about GABAGE of the year(s)
Again, stay away from anything packed by GPM.....

And about the 3racing universal, yes, it was approved by a lot of racer and I myself would like to use one....but only when my MIP one is broken, however, those MIP is still holding up pretty good.
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:44 PM   #7464
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
I tried the GPM Ti cvds, don't waiste your money!!! The titanium is light and good but where the they are pinned will wear out in a very very short time. I wore both front and rear sets out in less than 1/2 a gallon of fuel, and theres no replacement parts. But... They never twisted or bent. You can get them from HK for less then $30 shipped if you look around, but I don't think they are worth much
You forgot to mention the UNIVERSAL parts of the universal, the big round PIN are so strong that will not wear itself, but it would WEAR the surrounding and after another 5 more minutes, teh whole universal will fall into pieces and caused you the big race.

If you want a DNF or DNS, use GPM.
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Old 01-10-2005, 09:20 PM   #7465
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
You forgot to mention the UNIVERSAL parts of the universal, the big round PIN are so strong that will not wear itself, but it would WEAR the surrounding and after another 5 more minutes, teh whole universal will fall into pieces and caused you the big race.

If you want a DNF or DNS, use GPM.
Exactly!! That's what I was talking about just worded it different. The Ti wore out/stretched. To me, I work with alot of fatigue in metals. The Titanium they use is of the cheapest grade. I would think if the Ti was top quality, the ends where it stretches and falls apart should actually break there. I could see considerable wear after just a quart of fuel but with only racing 5 min heats and mains I let mine go 1/2 gallon of fuel before I threw them away.
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:13 PM   #7466
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Default V2 rear susp

Looking for opinions with the V2 rear end.

What sway bars do you guys use? Pros? Cons? etc.

Thanks.
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Old 01-11-2005, 05:38 AM   #7467
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I like it with no sway bar.
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Old 01-11-2005, 06:06 AM   #7468
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Quote:
Originally posted by soc123_au
I like it with no sway bar.
I know it's dependant on the track, but is it usual for you ppl to run the car with sway bars at both ends, or just in the front/rear? Another thing, the V2 rear now accepts the blade type, has anyone use that for the rear? How does it feel like as compared to the wire type?
Thanks!!
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Old 01-11-2005, 06:59 AM   #7469
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tommi,is ur car equipped with the ver2 suspension??
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Old 01-11-2005, 09:27 AM   #7470
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I am using BRP medium sway bar per Berry Baker setup at.....forgot what event. You can find those from Tower.

I think blade type are little too hard for the rear...front is OK.
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