Solara

iTrader: (17)

Definitely the FIX...cheaper, and I believed you will break the shock towers before breaking the FIX first....

The ALUM case....don't even know why there is 1 out there.....I thought only T-max or Savage will have something like those.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

OK...I still have my front 1-way problem....I am trying to FIND or BUY that 2 outdrive bearing for my FT NTC3 front 1-way....and AE site listed it is # 1731.......but the weird part is....it is listed 3/8x5/16

3/8x5/16 is the one we use on the steering hub...WTF?

and they said it is 3/8" for the inside diameter....the stock outdrive bearing is already 3/8" and that doesn't fit cause the front 1-way is a little larger then 3/8"....

And I am sure the HD 1-way is out for more then a year....TOWER has no bearing size that will fit that 1-way, and AE listed the wrong size of the 1731...........

What to do now....?

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

You can order from yokomo usa,( i think AE gets it from yokomo anyways) if you want with the part number i gave you.

johnny

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Thanks, that is not just TOWER, AE use the 1731 number (special bearings) for the 1-way, and that bearing size is much smaller 3/8"x5/16"..?...don't even know what are those bearings for...?

$23.95 for 2 bearings......probably the most expensive bearing that I had ever buy....

Thanks again

Solara

iTrader: (17)

For those who has the FT NTC3 kit with the 'WHATEVER BRAND" front 1-way....first, no one knows it is a AE front 1-way, or it is a YOKOMO front 1-way that AE brought it and rename it to AE's brand.....but 1 thing for sure..........#1731 is NOT the outdrive bearing for that 1-way....

And the outdrive bearing that fits on the 1-way, is NOT #3796 (3/8"x5/8" standard ball diff outdrive bearings).........it is some ODD BALL 6mm x 5/8" bearings...........

AE does not have parts # for that, nor have any place to order that, nor any where to find that, nor any where to list the parts # of those bearing....

It only came with the FT NTC3 kit.....or from the 1-way kits (I think, I am not sure those bearings are came with the #1728 kit), so, if you break those bearings...good luck to find a spare one.....or $28 from Yokomo...which I still don't know that will fit or not cause they didn't list any size of those bearings.

I am frustrated, but overall.... I cannot believe that 1-way is out so long and there are no replacement bearing for that.... and I cannot believe NO ONE ever break those bearing..? Not even 1 person?

Or, I am simply looking at the wrong things...from yokomo site, those 2 bearings are $18 plus $6 shipping....

thomasf

iTrader: (8)

Those bearings for the HD one way are special because what they did was press a flat aluminum ring around the bearing so it was spaced properly in the diff cases. Does that make sense . I would just go out and buy a whole new complete one and keep what you have as back up. The AE one goes for$45-50 depending where you go. Buy the AE one over the Yokomo because the AE one is flanged to reinforce the gear where the yokomo isn't, and it also comes with shims to keep everything spaced right. I have been using the AE one way with the white gears since it came out and so for no problems with the gears or bearings

seamus0g

True, true. Take a close look at your old bearing and you'll see it's actually a metric bearing with a pressed on outer shim. As far as I know you can't buy just this special bearing from AE even though they have a part number (1731). Write to your local congressman.

Again, true, true. The larger support flange on the AE one-way definitley helps prevent gear stripping by reinforcing the ring rear. But then again I'm still running my original 2 year old NOT-HD AE one-way from the original kit...

Smalls

I need some help with a set up....
I am currently using this set up...

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...kongQ_2002.jpg

But the car was too loose for me to drive so I tighten it up by going with yellow/copper and bumping the toe to 3.5 now the thing is supper tight and is pushing so bad that I almost have to stop in the infield to make turns.

I am running 37's in the rear and 40's in the front. Didnt have 40's for the rear at the time. I am thinking about myabe purple sin the front? maybe 2.5 degrees of toe in the rear? Any help would be great.

The car is sick tight entering but still real tight through a highspeed chicane.

if anyone either has a great set up for a wavy parking lot track with low to medium ( as the day goes on ) bite would be great. Thanks,
Chris

seamus0g

Don't have a great setup for your type of track, but sounds like the changes you are thinking of making will help. And a thicker rear roll bar (Buds) will also help loosen the car up a little.

Also make sure you have the stiffer spring or washers in the servo saver to tighten it up. The kit spring is ridiculously loose and can cause serious understeer at speed.

thomasf

iTrader: (8)

seamusOg, Where do you race? I'm going down to Rams tomorrow. I blew out two of the old one ways, I have a new NOT HD one way if you want to buy it. $20

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

So James do you have any set up's for med. size parking lot tracks,med tractions..??

seamus0g

Mostly RCCAR. I probably should start running RAMS soon for Nats practice. You running 1/8th or outlaw? I'll probably drop by around lunch for awhile to shoot the shit with the Werks guys.

seamus0g

You talking about the Modesto track? I usually start wirh Barry's setup except no front swaybar. Maybe go with softer springs (copper or red), and 40/40s or 37/37s. Is the track tight? Bumpy?

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Yea it's bumpy and tight.

seamus0g

I would start with red springs, 50wt oil, #3 pistons, no front sway, fat Buds rear sway, 37/37 shore, diffs front/rear and tune from there. Just a guess. I set droop by eye so don't have a number to give you, but add some from what you run on a smooth high traction track. And spend some quality time dialing the brakes in during practice. You could also try moving the camber links up to change the roll center and increase mechanical grip, but might make it too twitchy if the track is bumpt in the wrong places. Good luck.