NTC3NUT

I have both versions of the RPM ball cups, from AE, and from RPM. I also have 2-sets of FT rear turnbuckles & a set of Lunsford Superdutys that are slightly longer than the FT versions. I wasn't aware of any differance in sizing, other than the turnbuckles length of course, but to tell you the truth I never really looked. I'll checkthem all out tonight and let you know what I find. I'll tell you what I did last year to keep them from compressing, I used Losi thick CA to firm them up. You have a little time to make adjustments due to the thick CA drying a little slower than your typical stuff, but you still have to be fast. It'll work in a pinch.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

just check..the RPM cups are supposed to be a lighter grey color..and the OD(thread portion) should be larger on the SD threads...

alucard13

I did what the instructions said and mine shifts fine. i did loosen the spring screws a little more than i should have. like maybe 1/4 turn. not alot. because on the instructions it says to tighten the screw until the springs are fully compressed, then loosen 3 1/2 turns. i did that plus an extra 1/4 turn. the problem was i didnt really know when it was fully compressed. mine shifts fine. in fact it flies

mave

I have to agree with Old Skool. I got a pipe very similar to Rd logic(maybe it is rd logic).

Before I switch pipe, I always run into engine problem. The engine will always stall for no reason. I know you guys will say that it is all about tuning... Many fellows at the track tried to help me tune, all failed except for one for manage to get my engine running for a few tanks... however, the engine has to run rich and there is no power to it. Imagine a five port lagging behind a three port engine. I thought my engine is screwed until I tried the third party pipe.
Once I fit it on, the engine already experience more power. That is even before I tune any needles on the engine. After I set the needles right, the engine has tremedous power, as if it is new.(and the setting is still on the rich side. imagine if I lean it)

A fren of mine tried the pipe on his Nova JP. man..... The combination of the pipe and engine twisted his universal. Trust me, he did not bang into walls or jump track. The combination of pipe and engine was that powerful!!!

Today I play more than five tanks. Before I changed my pipe, my engine is always stalling and people at the track look at me one kind because i'm the very few running NTC3. But now I'm cool, I just need to set my car right for the track and I can let them bite the dust.

I really have no regrets getting the third party pipe.

mave

Hi Fuse01,

I'm just thinking out loud, could it be that you servo saver is too hard which is why it is causing your tie-rod to bend? If the servo save is that hard wouldn't it be damaging to your servo? If you are using a digital servo, that is an expensive bargain.

If you are looking at a hard steering rack, the one by K factory look super hard. I don't think there is any provision for servo saver on it.

I'm look for third party tie-rod to solve the bending issue.
If your engine is very powerful, definitely it will bend the rod.

futureal

More questions from futureal, the nitro newbie.

Just got an O.S. TR installed in the car. Do I want to add thread lock to the screw that holds the clutch bell on? Or is there anywhere else I should add it? I normally do it wherever metal locks into metal, although I found it odd that the NTC3 manual doesn't mention threadlock for the engine mounting screws or anything like that. I remember with the old HPI Nitro car I ran like 3 years ago, we would threadlock stuff everywhere.

Actually, that's the only question I have left. Everything else went together beautifully and is ready to go.

Boomer

Guys,

if you're using spacers to make the servo saver harder, you're actually limiting the amount it can work rather than just making it harder.

Since it works on a cam type action, putting shims in will actually prevent it from working.

Rather, get a stiffer spring (a la the slipper clutch spring from the RC10GT) and use that with no spacers. This allows the servo saver full movement, it just takes a LOT more effort to move it. Abnormal hits (ie. wrecks, etc.) will make the servo saver slip, which it's suppposed to do, but turns will be sharp and crisp, like we all want them to be.

alucard13

When i put my ntc3 kit together i only put threadlock where it told me to and i have had no problems. I was concerned with the engine mounts because like you stated before about the hpi and putting threadlock on it. with my hpi car if i dont put threadlock on eveything thats screwed into metal, the whole darn thing falls apart. but with the ntc3 everytyhing seems fine. i even tried to tighten the engine mount screws the other day and they weren't loose at all. of course every car and the way you drive is different, but in my experince with my car i havent had any problems ...except for running into things, but thats because of me...lol

simonfdr

My Baby again

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Looks great, but can you drive it? lol. We should be racing Sunday.

simonfdr

Somethings wrong with it... I need you to take a look at it for me. A BIG look

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

No problem, I will be on tonight.

drive4fun

Where i want to go too im from new york city

simonfdr

If you can get to my house sunday by 10:30, I can drive you there.

rcpilot

Does anyone know how the Gh chassis compares to the stock one in terms of weight?

Thanks.