simonfdr

I got more! But I'll stop here.

Yokomo_King

what was the modifications did yuo do to make the lola fit? like what do i have to do?

simonfdr

Your supposed to shave your front shock tower since i have aluminum ones I just let it squeeze the body. I think you have to cut a piece of the front foam bumber and shave the front shocktower.

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Wow, nice paint job simon.
As far as the towers, you can heat the body where the towers are hitting and push the lexan out where needed. I used one of those large red lighters that you can get at any supermarket. It looks like a gun. There are other ways too.

JPHRacer

Fuse here is what I posted on the pipe tuning thread, this should help out

Modellor: that info is wrong. The shorter the exhaust system the the more HP (RPM) the motor will make. The longer the exhaust system the more torque the motor makes. It does not matter what side you take it from. This is been an undisputed rule for the past 30+ years. It comes from 2 stroke dirtbikes, and was made real common knowledge by the RC Boat guys. The shorter the exhaust system means that the pressure waves have less distance to travel to get from the exhaust port to the end of the pipe and back to the exhaust port to pack back in the fresh chrage. This makes the exhaust system more in-sync with the motor at higher RPM's. But at lower RPM's the motor will not be "on the pipe." The longer the exhuast system means that the motor will be "on the pipe" at lower RPM's. When you go up in nitro % you want to leangthen you exhaust system because the more nitro will make the exhaust charge travel at a higher velocity, thus effectivly shortining the exhaust system so to compensate you must leangthen it. I belive that every 10% means you want .125" longer. ??? I think??? Shape does make a bigger difference than size though. Less belly leangth and more cone leangth makes for a better top end pipe, and more belly and less cone leangth makes for a more bottom end pipe. I have know idea where RCNitro get's its information from, but I have a collection of old boat motor tuning books from the same publisher, Air Age, that came out in the eirly 90's and has the same info that I am writing, so I belive that the RCNItro people just need to do their homework.

The dual chamber pipe is allmost an inch shorter from the inlet to the end of the cone inside. The shorter pipe and header is not what you want for the samll track.

I can help out on the motor tuning but first the actuall motor brand and modle would be nice.

fuse01

to JPHRACER,


SO sir are you saying i should have length the manifold instead of cutting it? i'm using a JP NOVA S5.

Because of the design of the AE pipe, the S curve is actually causing a choke ? i see tons of smoke coming out from the pipe and yet its is still lean. and often then not the engine over heats .
and if i run just a little rich, the engine will cut before WOT.
Still showing tons of smoke in the process.


i'm very confuse why this is so? must be the pipe. we have tested the same setup but on a mugen with a RBX12 pipe and everything ran fine. no over heating no chocking.

Can someone tell me what is wrong here?

InitialD

A simple and fast check... Have you tried a different plug on your engine in the NTC3? What are you currently using now?

fuse01

Nova turbo plug 6.

fuse.

InitialD

Have you tried the 5 or 7 plug? Most of the time, engine tuning problems like what you have described can be solved by a mere change of plug...

dvargas

Will the OS A3 glow plugs work though? until i can order the McCoy glow plugs?

Will the OS A3 mess my engine up?

mave

Hi JPracer,
logically speaking. the S curve may cause some problem. But doubt it is the one that cause smoke from the pipe. Now back to the s-curve, if I imagine it like a normal water pipe, that S-curve will not slow my rate of water flow. If it is a air pipe, as long as it is not a 90 degree bent or some kind of 'kint' , the flow of the air pipe is basically not obstructed in anywhere.

GP40X

iTrader: (10)

dvargas,

I don't think it will mess up your engine but your engine may not run as good as if it had the McCoy MC-59. I believe the OS A-3 is a short plug & the McCoys are Long plugs. The head of the AE engine will shroud the plug some & it may cause tuning/running problems.

How about it from some of the old hands around here. Has anyone used an OS plug in the AE engine & did it give you any problems?

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

simonfdr

I have a mccoy right now. Works fine.

JPHRacer

I never said anything about s-curve in the pipe, just the cones and the belly section. What you should do is go buy a few headers and have ones ranging from cut 1 inch to full non cut. And try them all. It is hard to tell you that this is what to run because I am not at the track and I cant hear your motor. Generally motors that have any work done inside will need a longer exhaust system, and the JP has enough work done inside to qualify it for needing a longer exhaust system.

What are you using to tell if the motor is running lean, if you see smoke coming from the pipe? Head temp? Exhaust temp? Sound? Generally smoke is a very reliable source for telling you how the motor is running.

I run on small tracks as well with far more worked motors than a JP and have never had a problem with motor tuning, which will rule out any inherent car problems. What fuel are you using. It seems more and more aperent that it is the motor just being out of tune then the pipe setup. If you have a friend with a motor that he will let you try, then I would try a differnt motor just to rule out that it is not the car or pipe. If the new motor works fine then I would start replacing o-rings and seals on your motor to see if you can nail it down to an air leak somewhere.

Number 11

I am planning on buying a new engine and wanted to know if the MT12 needed any modification to install it into the car? Also what glow plug should you use with this motor?