jihernandez

Just wanted to share my R40 pics as well
Only thing is, although I've started lightening options on it, it is still much heavier than my ever dependable fully hopped-up V1R.

The only thing that is in the R40 which I don't get in my V1R is the very flush drivetrain - coz the R40 really glides. My V1R doesn't glide that much...or maybe because I run my V1R with front diff while my R40 runs on 1-way.

Still, love that R40. Am sure with more lightening options it can still improve.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

3Racing Chassis. It seems to be a little bit lighter than stock and its 4mm thick I believe.

I like it , everything fits well and it has a cooling slot for the engine which is actually cut to direct air towards the engine. I was really impressed with that. And luckily enough my latest motor has a heatsink to take advantage of that.

WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

Impressive... Is that the one for $35US?

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Sure is. Another reason I got it.

WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

Nice... I gotta get me one of those

Jea3

iTrader: (1)

I pulled my R40 back out also. I'm going to replace the modified Mugen CVD's I had to install in front. What are the best CVD's for the R40? Stock the best? I also need to re-install a front diff.


I'll take it to race 2 of our points series at Superior, but the car I'm counting on is my Mugen. The HPI needs too much work on it, and the Mugen is ready to go. I'm getting a new Mugen X12 engine today for it, at the new PNP Hobbies here in Palm Bay, FL. Pete let me do the R40 ordering, and I order everything I could from HPI, now I need some after market things for it.

Harry / AMG, what to do for the front diff? Should I go with a 4 gear in the front, and a 2 gear in the rear?

We are on a tight, technical track, with VHT down as traction compound, and it does have some bumps.

I use the Futaba 9451 digital steering, and a 9550 for throttle, and a new Mugen X12 engine for power, new Stratus 3.0 body now.

Thanks all

Joe

k_brian

I think the r40 is design to run with some weight. Some guys at my LHS have lighten their r40 to almost 1680gm without fuel but the car did not perform alot better. In the end all of them put back the weight and the car perform great. its just somethings to share but not telling you guys not to lighten it.

k_brian

i think the stock CVD works well not much of a problem.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Stock are ok.

I think there are also 3racing ones which are a tad heavier and thicker. So you will loose some power to unsprung weight but they should last a bit longer. There are also others , its just the 3racing is the only one ive come across.

The front-diff I know people use the one-way. But im guessing you already tried that. As for the 2 gear and 4 gear diffs. I hear it really only increases the consistency and strength so if your going to you might want to try running 4 in both, just use a lighter weight grease. Otherwise almost every team driver setup ive come across. They all use the one-way setup in front with the 4 gear diff in the rear.

As for aftermarket parts. I like 3racing. Except for their steering setup, that was terrible.

RCMART.com seems to have the best selection and prices on that. You can pretty much go wild on that and they have some parts that I bought versus the hpi parts. Like the engine mounts and rear brace which are the same quality just the 3racing is much cheaper.

onnetz

so nobody else has done any mods to their sleeve?

JAG Racing

Careful here - what is the weigth? I know the GPM is not worth it as it weighs NO LESS than the stock. Who has some measured data here?

JAG Racing

Hi Joe,

I have much better consistency using a front gear diff in front on a tight technical track (compared to front spool). I guess alot depends on driving style. The front diff (50,000 wt. oil) provides excellent braking (when needed) while not taking away that much "off-power" steering into those 180 degree turns. It allows me to drive hard into the turn and brake harder than most drivers. If the track does not have alot of 180's then maybe the spool is the answer. Let us know how it goes.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Its listed on 3racing to weigh less. I will take mine off and weigh it soon to verify this though. Which is a good idea.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

I wondered that , at least after driving nothing but diff cars. I got this one with the one-way automatically just because im trying to mock haras setup. I just like mocking team drivers setups. It always has netted me a much better ride than stock. From off-road to on. I basically pick who I think is the best and I try it out.

I guess the trick is for the one-way to make it so you can brake somewhat without the rear locking up and throwing the car in a 360. I might move to the gear diff though cause I believe some people do have them or at least I see on our track they just charge into the corners and just jerk the car all around and the vehicle is acting like its doing great , taking it fine. While I can tell others are doing what im doing , letting off and coasting through.

Maybe its driver style or setup. But I have feeling it might also be that some have the diffs and some dont.

Rapid Roy

If you can learn to drive with the one way in the front, thats the fastest way around the track. Just check out the electric guys. The other thing you can try is the front spool. Just use the solid plug designed for the rear diff and put it in the front.