Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Well just finished building my Cabinent O RC. MY RC Room is coming together.

Ill post pics once im finished. Most everything I own is tagged with HPI something too. But yeah in one cabinent. First level. I have my starter box , r40 sitting on top with a body on it.

Fuel gallon , Fuel Bottle , Couple of sets of ellegis. Batteries and other misc goods, temp gauge.

Next level, My racer2 sitting on top of an integy droop gauge and blocks. With a bunch of unopened HG parts sitting behind it for background. No tires on it and a orange silvia body sitting on top of it.

Next level a XXX Kinwald Edition Buggy in purple , with purple body clips and a purple battery pack.

On top of the cabinent a AD truck.

So far so good that helped organize my kits up quite a bit.

Rapid Roy

The change in the wear of the rear tires is caused by switching to the 4 gear rear diff. The rear end is more planted now since the inside wheel isn't lifting and spinning. This causes the outside rear tire to bit much harder which is making the rear tires wear faster. This is a good thing. It means you are pretty hooked up.

regg151

I figured it would help with rear traction but it actually made it worse. I expect the rears to wear faster then the fronts but why was the rear end wanting to slide out so often didn't take much if I even tapped the throttle it would break loose and want spin out regardless if it was at the end of the sweeper or a 180* turn the rear was very loose under power.

performula

iTrader: (4)

Worse case scenario you might be able to run the same shore tires front and rear, but nearly all the time, the rear tires should be a softer shore. I run a harder compound in the rear for practice and parking lot runs.

regg151

same here I was running the 40's in the rear just for practice. but even still I was surprised by how much the rear end broke loose on the high traction surface. I've run 42 shore front and rear and never had this problem on this track.

AMGRacer

I am just interested in feedback. Sometimes I think I talk myself into believing things about certain hopups, but I could swear that my motor revs cleaner and stronger on the top end with the 1 piece mount. RC Champ can supply it, it is an Atsushi Hara item. I really love mine, see above I swear it makes a difference.

Rapid Roy

You might need to go back to the 2 gear diff in the rear if you are loosing that much rear traction. The 4 gear is for higher bite conditions. You might also try just grease in the rear diff. The 4 gear diff has more mechanical friction so its stiffer from the get go.

AMGRacer

If you are running the 4 gear diff with light grease then the rear diff should not be making the car spin out by itself. You may be "diffing out" or you may have the rear too stiff in general. If you went from a 2 gear to 4 gear rear diff and it made it worse it seems the in general your rear end is lacking grip as the change to the number of gears is a fairly subtle adjustment.

Rapid Roy

You might also try removing or softening your rear roll bar.

AMGRacer

If you were on a high grip surface then you easily should be able to run the 4 gear rear diff along with 30K weight rear diff oil. This is my usual setup. Seems something is wrong or imbalanced in your car.

AMGRacer

I would normally agree Roy, but if the surface is truely high traction this is going the wrong way. The rear end will begin to overroll.

My rear setup for the 2006 worlds track, which is fairly high grip, is 40 shore rear tires, 30K 4 gear diff, 3mm droop, 5mm ride height, gold springs, 3 x 0.8mm hole pistons, 50wt shock oil, black swaybar set on the outer linkage hole, shocks layed down. Thats a fairly typical rear setting (look at Haras setups) for any track you would consider "high grip".

Rapid Roy

My understanding on the purpose of the one peice engine mount is to allow the motor to rev easier since base is supported more stiffly. I have not tried that mount so I couldn't tell you for sure.

AMGRacer

Yep thats my understanding as well. But I wonder whether I am deluding myself as well

Rapid Roy

You have a good point. I was going on the assumption that his grip wasn't as good as he was thinking it was. If the traction really is good, it could also be too soft springs causing the chassis to bottom.

regg151

rapid roy- the track is extremly high bite it's a permanent location even thou the layout changes almost every week.

I'm running just the 4 gears and the moly greese that came with the kit.

as you mentioned it could be that the chassie was bottoming out i'm running the kit springs with 30wt oil.

I'm also wondering if I just have too much power getting to the wheels too early?? Nahhh