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Old 05-09-2005, 08:05 PM   #6526
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Wait, so does everyone recommend to leave the O-spring out of the clutch or in?
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Old 05-09-2005, 08:30 PM   #6527
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Does anyone know which pulley shaft is the lightest. Is the gpm even hollow? Are they worth getting or are the HPI LW shafts the best?
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Old 05-09-2005, 08:33 PM   #6528
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Does anyone know which pulley shaft is the lightest. Is the gpm even hollow? Are they worth getting or are the HPI LW shafts the best?
I have heard that they are OK, from a dealer that sold their products. I posted not too long ago about 3Racing, Eagle/Integy, and GPM...wait.

I think I am thinking of GH.

I do not know about GPM. Where did you see the shaft?
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Old 05-09-2005, 08:34 PM   #6529
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I think it was GPM, someone said they broke the shaft.
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Old 05-09-2005, 08:57 PM   #6530
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Quote:
Originally posted by performula
Wait, so does everyone recommend to leave the O-spring out of the clutch or in?
My vote is out...but this is coming from a guy with only about 4 tanks of track time. Although I did get it from a guy with at least a season's worth of track time and the LHS/track owner.
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:05 PM   #6531
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Quote:
Originally posted by performula
I have heard that they are OK, from a dealer that sold their products. I posted not too long ago about 3Racing, Eagle/Integy, and GPM...wait.

I think I am thinking of GH.

I do not know about GPM. Where did you see the shaft?
Ive never seen 3racing shafts. So gpm arent good? Whats the reccomendation?
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:21 PM   #6532
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I'm gonna remind everyone that you DON'T need the spring in there. I explained it a page back. To whoevers spring broke and had erratic flame outs.. the spring was messing up the syncronization of the clutch shoes (4) flying outwards. you probably had a couple shoes engaging while the spring prevented movement of the other shoes.

regardless of my tacky explanations, forget about the spring. dont use it. its a waste of rotating mass.
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:22 PM   #6533
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Get the HPI hollow layshafts. No problems.

Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Ive never seen 3racing shafts. So gpm arent good? Whats the reccomendation?
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:27 PM   #6534
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check the throttle linkage for any inconsistent throttle return positioning.. you can use fuel tubing to prevent problems here.

if thats all good, then can you tell me if the wheels were spinning while the engine revved? you want about 1 thread showing above the clutch adjustment nut.

Quote:
Originally posted by nitroracer20
hey guys,
I finally completly finished putting my r40 back together, I started it up and immediately it starts reviing to what would be about 1/4 throttle. Im thinking its the clutch. I took it apart and Im going to see whats up with it. I know I need a new spring so far. I went to adjust the engageing time with that 1.5mm set screw behind the 2nd pinion and I stripped it!! Whgat does that goe to , the clutch nut? Also, how tight should I put the clutch nut onto the crank shaft?? Once I figure out these things, I will certainly have more questions.

Thanks

Edit: How tight is that clutch spring supposed to be that goes around the clutch weights?
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Old 05-10-2005, 04:04 AM   #6535
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artificial-no, I have my idle set correct as well as my linkage.
trance-thats what I will do, leave 1 thread showing. So you do NOT need the spring, that goes around the weights. Thats good. IU thought I wouldnt be able to get my car back together.

Ill let you guys know what happens.

p.s.-do the clutch nut on the pilot shaft and the 1.5mm st screw do the same thing when adjusted? Im confused which to turn to laten the engagement
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Old 05-10-2005, 04:05 AM   #6536
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o yeah, the wheels were turning, when I hit the break they stopped.

Its an odd problem, because the guy before me said he never had any issurs with the centax clutch
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Old 05-10-2005, 05:21 AM   #6537
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitroracer20
artificial-no, I have my idle set correct as well as my linkage.
trance-thats what I will do, leave 1 thread showing. So you do NOT need the spring, that goes around the weights. Thats good. IU thought I wouldnt be able to get my car back together.

Ill let you guys know what happens.

p.s.-do the clutch nut on the pilot shaft and the 1.5mm st screw do the same thing when adjusted? Im confused which to turn to laten the engagement
Well for your car to rev half throttle. There is either a lean idle mixture or something else thats actually making the car rev high.

A clutch problem would never make the car rev higher....Unless your talking about you need to rev high to get the car to engage.
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Old 05-10-2005, 08:10 AM   #6538
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Where did you race?
Sugar Bowl near Atlanta, I'm here for work for a little while til I get back to Orlando.
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Old 05-10-2005, 09:44 AM   #6539
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Welp, gonna run the R40 today. I don't make any mods to the clutch other than filing down the pegs. I use the spring that goes around the weights. Not using them wouldn't make clutch adjustment the same. The only vehicle I know of that doesn't use a clutch spring is the RC10GT. Not sure now it works, but keep it on the R40. If you just shim things properly, you won't have to worry about removing anything to make things work. My MT12 and Rody V12 appears the same size crankshaft. However my Rody needed all 6 shims and the big washer behind the collet while the MT12 only need a big washer and 4 shims. Using the Rody it still sits a tiny bit before getting offline, but it's all I need and nothing more. The adjusternut is nut you make for earlier and later engagements. The clutchnut is what keeps the flywheel on the shaft. My adjuster nut right now is set to factory settings, so quicker acceleration can be attained by tightening it. The car is awesome and I have no probs with it. LW chassis will be purchased as well as new engine mounts.
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Old 05-10-2005, 10:20 AM   #6540
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I was thinking if you guys are going to shave down the pegs. Shave em down in the rear after you tap them through some. So they keep that smooth rounded edge.

I dunno. Just figured if you were going to do it , you can keep it clean by doing it this way. Test fit the clutch on and off till its right then file the rear pegs. A dremel could easily perform that task.
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