HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
05-08-2005, 07:35 PM
#6496
Rdlogics has a reinforced pipe. I was thinking about getting it.
Also a different exhaust hanger wire can be more forgiving or absorbing. And definently place it in as close as possible. Look at haras, its got the stinger in about as far as possible.
Also a different exhaust hanger wire can be more forgiving or absorbing. And definently place it in as close as possible. Look at haras, its got the stinger in about as far as possible.
05-08-2005, 07:38 PM
#6498
Originally posted by performula
Took the R40 to the track today and wow! The handling was phenomenal. The car took a beating until my last run where I clipped the wall taking out my upper rear tie rod, brand new VR12 exhaust, upper and lower front arms, dogbone, and body. I was hitting stuff all day, but I guess it could not take it any longer. I ran the car a total of 6 hours today and I cannot be more delighted.
Definately got better as the day went on, but the last wreck did me in. I already need to spend $75 to fix my brand new car, but life is learning. And wrecking all day will eventually cost something.
I did Josh Cyrul's break in method and I am still on the original glow plug. The engine ran like a champ all day. (Little rich)
There was no racing since it was Mother's Day.
Took the R40 to the track today and wow! The handling was phenomenal. The car took a beating until my last run where I clipped the wall taking out my upper rear tie rod, brand new VR12 exhaust, upper and lower front arms, dogbone, and body. I was hitting stuff all day, but I guess it could not take it any longer. I ran the car a total of 6 hours today and I cannot be more delighted.
Definately got better as the day went on, but the last wreck did me in. I already need to spend $75 to fix my brand new car, but life is learning. And wrecking all day will eventually cost something.
I did Josh Cyrul's break in method and I am still on the original glow plug. The engine ran like a champ all day. (Little rich)
There was no racing since it was Mother's Day.
05-08-2005, 07:49 PM
#6499
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Rdlogics has a reinforced pipe. I was thinking about getting it.
Also a different exhaust hanger wire can be more forgiving or absorbing. And definently place it in as close as possible. Look at haras, its got the stinger in about as far as possible.
Rdlogics has a reinforced pipe. I was thinking about getting it.
Also a different exhaust hanger wire can be more forgiving or absorbing. And definently place it in as close as possible. Look at haras, its got the stinger in about as far as possible.
. The stinger is reinforced so well that it has no give so the header takes the blunt of the energy -- not good. The biggest proglem with the reinforced stinger pipe is that it sticks out a 1/2 inch more than the normal muffler stinger... so I would say it is not a good fit with the R40. The concept is good if they made the stinger shorted.Its best to just keep the muffler tucked in the best you can.
05-08-2005, 08:25 PM
#6501
Originally posted by JAG Racing
I bought this one for my son to use and it lasted about one good hit. The good news, the stinger is still in perfect shape and position -- BAD news, you should see the header . The stinger is reinforced so well that it has no give so the header takes the blunt of the energy -- not good. The biggest proglem with the reinforced stinger pipe is that it sticks out a 1/2 inch more than the normal muffler stinger... so I would say it is not a good fit with the R40. The concept is good if they made the stinger shorted.
Its best to just keep the muffler tucked in the best you can.
I bought this one for my son to use and it lasted about one good hit. The good news, the stinger is still in perfect shape and position -- BAD news, you should see the header
. The stinger is reinforced so well that it has no give so the header takes the blunt of the energy -- not good. The biggest proglem with the reinforced stinger pipe is that it sticks out a 1/2 inch more than the normal muffler stinger... so I would say it is not a good fit with the R40. The concept is good if they made the stinger shorted.Its best to just keep the muffler tucked in the best you can.
Basically I just sat there and kept pulling on the pipe and spring inward after awhile the spring will stay and the pipe will tuck in a bit more. This is quick fix but normally long term solution. Or you can adjust it. But I find it hard to get that sweet spot without it fully being on and set.
05-08-2005, 09:46 PM
#6503
i think you guys can try out the mielke tuned pipe i think its called werks in the states. Its super tough.
05-09-2005, 08:26 AM
#6504
Tech Initiate
cclutch
I think i may have found the problem with my clutch.I was comapring it to a mugen clutch and found that the pins on the flywheel stick through the clutch about .5mm.Will this cause the clutch not to adjust right.If so what is the solution.
05-09-2005, 08:37 AM
#6505
You mean they stick up through the clutch shoes. Simple fix is to take a dremel and sand them down. This will ensure only the shoes coming into contact with the clutchbell. I did this and it runs better. However, that wasn't the major problem as to why my clutch didn't engage. It all had to do with shimming and the adjuster nut setting.
05-09-2005, 08:43 AM
#6506
JAG - Beater tires, 168G belt yoks with firm inserts, I think. Asphalt sprayed with traction sauce, pretty high traction. Pushes all the time except very low speeds. Next run I plan to soften the springs up front or stiffen them in the rear. Is there an easy way to disengage the front sway bar?
Yeah, if you've got the exact rates, that would help. I have a mix of AE, Tamiya, and Yok springs in my box. It would be nice to know where the HPI springs rate.
Yeah, if you've got the exact rates, that would help. I have a mix of AE, Tamiya, and Yok springs in my box. It would be nice to know where the HPI springs rate.
Originally posted by JAG Racing
** What brand&rating and which tire inserts? Are you running on concrete or asphault? How is the traction; low med, or high? Is it pushing at both "on-power" and "off-power"? You might start with higher grip front tires or lower grip rear tires or try softer springs in front.
** I have a friend who runs 26mm all the way around and it works ok; not optimal , just OK.
I think http://www.hpiracing.com ... ( I just checked and their springrate PDF has a bad link rigth now). Silver - soft Black - med, and GOld Firm. If you want the exact spring constant I can give them to you as well.
** What brand&rating and which tire inserts? Are you running on concrete or asphault? How is the traction; low med, or high? Is it pushing at both "on-power" and "off-power"? You might start with higher grip front tires or lower grip rear tires or try softer springs in front.
** I have a friend who runs 26mm all the way around and it works ok; not optimal , just OK.
I think http://www.hpiracing.com ... ( I just checked and their springrate PDF has a bad link rigth now). Silver - soft Black - med, and GOld Firm. If you want the exact spring constant I can give them to you as well.
05-09-2005, 08:51 AM
#6507
clutch
The clutch is tricky. The manual doesn't say enough about it. I think there has to be some endplay in the bell. Not a lot, probably about as much as your gear mesh on electric cars! (64 pitch, not 48!)
Also, defintely use thread lock!
This was my first clutch ever, so shimming was a pain, but I eventually got it. Pay attention to *where* you add the shims. If I added them below the thrust race (bearing?), it didn't seem to have an effect, and sometimes I got binding. I had to go above to work out the endplay on the bell. It's still seems like it's reving too high before it engages, so I still need to play with it. I also had to sand paper out some material on the inside to get my bearing to fit smoothly. I did without the o-spring and the spacer under the collet, and it still ran. It takes a little more work than my electrics, but the speed is the reward!
Also, defintely use thread lock!
This was my first clutch ever, so shimming was a pain, but I eventually got it. Pay attention to *where* you add the shims. If I added them below the thrust race (bearing?), it didn't seem to have an effect, and sometimes I got binding. I had to go above to work out the endplay on the bell. It's still seems like it's reving too high before it engages, so I still need to play with it. I also had to sand paper out some material on the inside to get my bearing to fit smoothly. I did without the o-spring and the spacer under the collet, and it still ran. It takes a little more work than my electrics, but the speed is the reward!
05-09-2005, 09:01 AM
#6508
Originally posted by Greenbox
BTW my steering is a bit sticky and my servo won't go back to neutral. If i turn right and let go of the tx wheel then it goes back to an off-centered neutral that is a bit to the right. There a fix?
BTW my steering is a bit sticky and my servo won't go back to neutral. If i turn right and let go of the tx wheel then it goes back to an off-centered neutral that is a bit to the right. There a fix?
05-09-2005, 09:03 AM
#6509
I just reshimed my clutch. Just used silver , gold and that was it. Now my clutch doesnt rub as much, but im sure its probably over .6mm of play. But before it was like .3 or something and it was making the clutch engage with a high idle.
You can always kinda push at the bell housing and see if it rubs against the clutch. If its pretty tight already and your engaging take out a shim. If you have to push far and its not really engaging add a shim.
Calculate what you have and what you take out how much that will remove.
EX. You have too much play , you have 3 shims. 2 silver 1 gold. Thats .8 mm of shims. You add another gold. Now its 1.0mm of shims so whatever play you had before is now subtracted by .2
I dont know if this really helps anyone but it sort of helped me understand what to do with my shims and now things seem to run well. The car can idle and the clutch doesnt engage..
You can always kinda push at the bell housing and see if it rubs against the clutch. If its pretty tight already and your engaging take out a shim. If you have to push far and its not really engaging add a shim.
Calculate what you have and what you take out how much that will remove.
EX. You have too much play , you have 3 shims. 2 silver 1 gold. Thats .8 mm of shims. You add another gold. Now its 1.0mm of shims so whatever play you had before is now subtracted by .2
I dont know if this really helps anyone but it sort of helped me understand what to do with my shims and now things seem to run well. The car can idle and the clutch doesnt engage..
05-09-2005, 09:59 AM
#6510
Originally posted by gibbous
JAG - Beater tires, 168G belt yoks with firm inserts, I think. Asphalt sprayed with traction sauce, pretty high traction. Pushes all the time except very low speeds. Next run I plan to soften the springs up front or stiffen them in the rear. Is there an easy way to disengage the front sway bar?
Yeah, if you've got the exact rates, that would help. I have a mix of AE, Tamiya, and Yok springs in my box. It would be nice to know where the HPI springs rate.
JAG - Beater tires, 168G belt yoks with firm inserts, I think. Asphalt sprayed with traction sauce, pretty high traction. Pushes all the time except very low speeds. Next run I plan to soften the springs up front or stiffen them in the rear. Is there an easy way to disengage the front sway bar?
Yeah, if you've got the exact rates, that would help. I have a mix of AE, Tamiya, and Yok springs in my box. It would be nice to know where the HPI springs rate.
FR SPRNGS
Silver - 516 g/mm
Black - 580 g/mm
Gold - 653 g/mm
REAR SPRNGS
Silver - 412 g/mm
Black - 464 g/mm
Gold - 530 g/mm
Why arent you running foams since the surface is asphault? Just curious. Seems to me you would be much better off running 40/42 combo or even 40/40 (Front/Rear).
Front Sway bar - Just make sure it is "horizontal" - no need to take it off.
Front Camber - Don't forget to try front camber settings! Usually 1.5 - 2 degrees works good as a starting point.
Up-travel - Make sure you rear uptravel is adequate to allow the weight to be transfered to the front ot the car. With you car in its normal stance, pick up the rear end and measure the distance the chassis traveled up just before the rear wheels lift off of the ground. What is the distance?