HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
06-16-2004, 04:43 PM
#3211
Originally posted by thefisherman
fast harry,
I'm new to this forum and have a couple of questions i hope you could answer or anyone at that.
1. is the .8 ratio what comes in the r40 light wieght 2sp?
2.which pipe whould you reccomend for a nova mega 3 port MS edition
3.what the best spacing for your tranny clutch...should you leave it as HPI says....
fast harry,
I'm new to this forum and have a couple of questions i hope you could answer or anyone at that.
1. is the .8 ratio what comes in the r40 light wieght 2sp?
2.which pipe whould you reccomend for a nova mega 3 port MS edition
3.what the best spacing for your tranny clutch...should you leave it as HPI says....
2. In my opinion you cannot go past the RD Turbo II pipe on Novarossi derived motors. I have tested it back to back with other pipes and my gosh it is very good.
3. HPIs stock setting works well. I have a new clutch setup which gives the car absolutely stunning punch, but you need a very grippy track to get it to work. Let me know if you want to know these settings.
06-16-2004, 04:48 PM
#3212
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
FastHarry.....according from Fedex, I should have the R40 at my door after work today............and because of you, I will order the 0.8 module today............after all the talk without actually owning a R40, I can finally join the R40 camp with 1 on my hand (again..)
I can understand the more pick up from the 0.8, the finer the pitch, the more PICK UP that you can get (you can see those 64 pitch gears on elect TC and 12th scale..) And about the top end faster then the stock 1.0........that I cannot explain, but I will BELIEVE and if 0.8 is better all around, what is the reason that I am not getting one...? No reason at all...
*SNIP*
I think there are couple of 0.8 module team driver setup sheet from the HPI Japan site that I can try....
FastHarry.....according from Fedex, I should have the R40 at my door after work today............and because of you, I will order the 0.8 module today............after all the talk without actually owning a R40, I can finally join the R40 camp with 1 on my hand (again..)
I can understand the more pick up from the 0.8, the finer the pitch, the more PICK UP that you can get (you can see those 64 pitch gears on elect TC and 12th scale..) And about the top end faster then the stock 1.0........that I cannot explain, but I will BELIEVE and if 0.8 is better all around, what is the reason that I am not getting one...? No reason at all...
*SNIP*
I think there are couple of 0.8 module team driver setup sheet from the HPI Japan site that I can try....
1.0M - 7.260 - 5.731 (Stock gearing ratios from HPIs own info card)
0.8M - 6.799 - 4.933 (Again from HPIs own gearing card that comes with the 0.8M gearset)
So you can see the 0.8M is significantly longer with the stock gearing. BUT for some reason it actually feels punchier and much more responsive. This is very strange but you will feel it.
06-17-2004, 09:09 AM
#3216
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Thanks for all the 0.8 module info....but still, can you guys give me some GEARING info?
Stock kit come with 54/60 spur, but what is pinion..? And what are you guys actually running...? Thanks
Thanks for all the 0.8 module info....but still, can you guys give me some GEARING info?
Stock kit come with 54/60 spur, but what is pinion..? And what are you guys actually running...? Thanks
06-17-2004, 11:43 AM
#3217
Re: gear ratios
Originally posted by stanky626
Hey guys, if the gear ratio is lower... does that equate to more speed? And, if the gear ratio is higher... does that equal more torque?
I noticed most people are running the smaller ratios.
Hey guys, if the gear ratio is lower... does that equate to more speed? And, if the gear ratio is higher... does that equal more torque?
I noticed most people are running the smaller ratios.
Using a lower gear ratio will give you more top end at the sacrifice of acceleration and with a higher gear ratio you get more acceleration but top end decreases. It depends on the type of track you race at. With most of the powerful .12s out there, you can still skid a bit using a lower gearing. I'm still using my MT12 and waiting to see what its like in the R40. Im so use to driving my NEO TNT and currently using the 2speed setup from the duratrax SFGP. I can cover a lot of ground very quickly in just first gear. Top end seems very well too. I'm really quick through the turns. I prefer to tap the throttle repeatedly to manuever in and out rather than stop and go. I can't wait to get back to Floyd and other tracks to go racing.
06-17-2004, 01:03 PM
#3218
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Thanks for all the 0.8 module info....but still, can you guys give me some GEARING info?
Stock kit come with 54/60 spur, but what is pinion..? And what are you guys actually running...? Thanks
Thanks for all the 0.8 module info....but still, can you guys give me some GEARING info?
Stock kit come with 54/60 spur, but what is pinion..? And what are you guys actually running...? Thanks
Mine shows pin/ 22/29 and 54/60
06-17-2004, 02:14 PM
#3219
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Mine shows pin/ 22/29 and 54/60
Mine shows pin/ 22/29 and 54/60
06-17-2004, 04:33 PM
#3221
My Japanese spec one is 21/26. This ratio will work nicely at all but the largest of tracks.
06-17-2004, 05:39 PM
#3222
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I understand that completely, but I can give you 2 information that makes you feel better...
(1) If you own a Mugen or Serpent car......you pay $7 for 1 steering knuckle......now, you have about the same $9 to buy a pair of steering knuckle along with some other parts that you MIGHT need........can you garantee you will not break the bulkhead next week..? Those extra parts might save you a race day next week (I dont' want to jinks you...but you know, sh_t happens...)...you have to understand the cost of the HPI parts...if the whole trees is selling for $9, then 1 steering kncukle will be like $2.....with packaging the stuff, it will ended up to $4 each, and that is EACH....now, you want to pay $9 for both plus extra or $4 each with no extra....?
(2) If 1 day, you decided to part out your R40.........you will have TONS of parts to take picture of and make your deal looks great and you can ask for more...........I knew that cause my SNRS4 have tons of parts that I don't need, but they definitely looks good on EBAY and actracte a lot of ppl......
I understand that completely, but I can give you 2 information that makes you feel better...
(1) If you own a Mugen or Serpent car......you pay $7 for 1 steering knuckle......now, you have about the same $9 to buy a pair of steering knuckle along with some other parts that you MIGHT need........can you garantee you will not break the bulkhead next week..? Those extra parts might save you a race day next week (I dont' want to jinks you...but you know, sh_t happens...)...you have to understand the cost of the HPI parts...if the whole trees is selling for $9, then 1 steering kncukle will be like $2.....with packaging the stuff, it will ended up to $4 each, and that is EACH....now, you want to pay $9 for both plus extra or $4 each with no extra....?
(2) If 1 day, you decided to part out your R40.........you will have TONS of parts to take picture of and make your deal looks great and you can ask for more...........I knew that cause my SNRS4 have tons of parts that I don't need, but they definitely looks good on EBAY and actracte a lot of ppl......
06-18-2004, 02:19 AM
#3224
anyone here hav a r40 rolling chassis for sale i need one asap for spares
thanks
thanks