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Old 08-30-2009, 10:25 PM   #1471
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. stripped spur gear (1st) . in two weeks, i've stripped 4 spurs. engine is not moving. if i let the car just roll on the track, no stripping.. if i push the car in aggressive mode, then it strips. what's the secret on the mesh? I've never had stripping problem with my 720 in 2 years of use.
i'm using 16T steel 1st gear pinion, 23T aluminum 2nd gear pinion
61T 1st gear spur/55 2nd gear spur
I would run a 22T pinion for he second gear that way you will get even amount of space between both gears.
This is workd out by adding the pinion and spur together. In your case; 16 + 61T= 77 and 23 + 55T= 78 so you will have a slight difference in your gears , it was something I read and it works for me, so try and get them the same.

This might help a little with your problem.
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Old 08-30-2009, 11:55 PM   #1472
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
I would run a 22T pinion for he second gear that way you will get even amount of space between both gears.
This is workd out by adding the pinion and spur together. In your case; 16 + 61T= 77 and 23 + 55T= 78 so you will have a slight difference in your gears , it was something I read and it works for me, so try and get them the same.

This might help a little with your problem.
This doesn't really matter. The gears cheat slightly on their pitch in order to make them the same sizes. All the 1st gear spurs are the same diameter. Same with the 2nd gear spurs as well as the different pinions.

I'm not saying your problem didn't go away, but it was something else. I don't even pay attention to the gear split when choosing my cars gearing.
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Old 08-30-2009, 11:56 PM   #1473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Just calculate tooth's, must be like this:

1st pinion + 1st spur = 2nd pinion + 2nd spur
16 + 61 = 77 = 21 + 56 = 77

If this is ok, just set axle of engine parallel to axle of gear box and set
small clearance



Hope this help!

m.

i found this awhile back... does this equation have to be followed?
(i.e. 1st Pinion + 1st Spur = 2nd Pinion + 2nd Spur)

the post says "MUST"
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:10 AM   #1474
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whats the part number for the axle that goes through the bearings when using dog bones?
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:13 AM   #1475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
I would run a 22T pinion for he second gear that way you will get even amount of space between both gears.
This is workd out by adding the pinion and spur together. In your case; 16 + 61T= 77 and 23 + 55T= 78 so you will have a slight difference in your gears , it was something I read and it works for me, so try and get them the same.

This might help a little with your problem.
track i run to has quite a back straight...
i'm afraid if i use 22T pinion, engine would be at its top rpm too long.. i will try this though
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:42 AM   #1476
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track i run to has quite a back straight...
i'm afraid if i use 22T pinion, engine would be at its top rpm too long.. i will try this though
Try changing your first gear one-way. Maybe borrow one from somebody to test?
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:49 AM   #1477
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whats the part number for the axle that goes through the bearings when using dog bones?
VZ013
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Old 08-31-2009, 02:31 AM   #1478
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
Try changing your first gear one-way. Maybe borrow one from somebody to test?
kindly explain further on the 1st gear one-way change...

i'm a bit confused as the 22T pinion is with the 2nd speed gears while the one-way is in the first, they're independent i believe.

my worry on using the 22T pinion is that with a longer back straight, the engine reaches its top rpm and stays there a bit longer
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Old 08-31-2009, 02:43 AM   #1479
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kindly explain further on the 1st gear one-way change...

i'm a bit confused as the 22T pinion is with the 2nd speed gears while the one-way is in the first, they're independent i believe.

my worry on using the 22T pinion is that with a longer back straight, the engine reaches its top rpm and stays there a bit longer
You said you were stripping 1st gear. If the bearing is defective that could cause the problem of stripping 1st gear. I routinely run gear combos that don't "match up" and very rarely strip gears. Your gear ratio isn't your problem so I am looking for another cause of your issue.
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Old 08-31-2009, 02:50 AM   #1480
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Default A quick question...

Anyone know where I could find a downloadable copy of V One RR manual? Thx
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Old 08-31-2009, 03:24 AM   #1481
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Anyone know where I could find a downloadable copy of V One RR manual? Thx

http://www.kyosho.com/eng/support/in...one_index.html

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Old 08-31-2009, 06:20 AM   #1482
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i had an issue a while ago where i stripped gears i found two problems novice issues first was my end points were pulling the motor slightly on full throttle which cause the mesh to slightly open up the the other was my clutch bell move slid to slid to much caused it to unmesh a little which stripped gear never had a issue after i fixed that.
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Old 08-31-2009, 10:59 PM   #1483
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Hey guys! well i finally got some money in! so in your experiences, what is actually worth buying from the evo2, so i may plan out what things i can purchase to put onto my evo wc! Thankz
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:05 AM   #1484
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LAM3SAUCE, so far the only things I have of the evo2 on my pre-evo2 is the chassis (didn't have much choice in that upgrade if you know what I mean.....) wich I think gives a noticable addition in steering. I do have some of the new 2nd spurs, but haven't put one on yet. Other than that I am running a "mutt" (some orginal through evo2 parts). One addition I just added was the Ybslow two speed shaft, and HOLY CRAP is it light! I haven't done any real running yet to see if I start blowing gears like we do with other TI shafts, but I don't think I will and I'll be testing it at the Nats as soon as I get out of work........
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:49 AM   #1485
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If possible I would sell your current car and get the Evo2 WC.. all new. In my opnion this option is better as buying each parts and then upgraded. Buying parts to make a car is expensive in my past experiences
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