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Old 09-07-2008, 09:32 PM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
A spool and front CVDs should be enough to get going. There hasn't been much feedback on the 2d clutch yet so I guess wait and see, from early reports it sounds ok but you might want to get an extra set of weights for some tracks to run 4 instead of 2. That said, I know plenty of people that run NT1s stock without problems
Kyosho front CVD are out of stock atm from what i have been told
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:09 AM
  #257  
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Originally Posted by Joe Chaplow
hi,
i currently have a nt1 and really dont race/practice much at all anymore. i maybe have went out with it four times. but every time i go out with it, i cant get it to run good. people tell me i need a clutch spring from this car, another thing from another car, etc. i really don't have the time to keep up on all this. i was wondering, is the rrr pretty much plug and play? or do you need to jump through hoops trying to find additonal parts to make it run good.

also, what upgrade parts would be good to buy.

thanks in advance,
joe
That is part of why I gave up on the NT1, Xray is doing very well in the aftermarket as well.

The RRR is really drivable out of the box, I'm not sure why they included a non locking one way instead of a spool though, it seems like the spool would be more usable on american tracks and it should be less expensive as well.
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:16 AM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by Joe Chaplow
hi,
i currently have a nt1 and really dont race/practice much at all anymore. i maybe have went out with it four times. but every time i go out with it, i cant get it to run good. people tell me i need a clutch spring from this car, another thing from another car, etc. i really don't have the time to keep up on all this. i was wondering, is the rrr pretty much plug and play? or do you need to jump through hoops trying to find additonal parts to make it run good.

also, what upgrade parts would be good to buy.

thanks in advance,
joe
I'd have to agree with Brian on this one. Several of the guys at our local track have the XRay NT1 and use different parts from other kits and it just doesn't make sense to me. You should be able to do well with any kit right out of the box and from past experience with Mugen, Kyosho, and the Team Magice G4RS, I'd have to say the Kyosho is the most reliable. I had a really rough time with the G4RS and the NT1 is good but I still see some of the local guys stripping lots of gears.

I've had the RRR EVO 2 for 2 weeks. Spent the first weekend getting the car ready to race and just raced it this last weekend. Had a tough time figuring out the track and went into the main with too soft of a tire setup. Traction rolled once and brought the car in for a pit to adjust the rear toe in. Went back on the track and set the fastest lap times the last half of the race. Wish it would have been a 15 minute main instead of 10 cause I would have gone to the front.

Couldn't be more pleased with the kit. Have run over a 1/2 galllon of track time with it and not a single broken part or stripped gear. With the exception of front CVD's and an aluminum brake lever, the rest of the kit is stock out of the box. Drives exceptionally well. I can't believe how planted the rear of this car is. So, good luck on your decision but if it were me it's a no brainer go with the RRR EVO 2.

Regards,
Speyedrjedi
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:32 AM
  #259  
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Forgot to mention the new 2d clutch setup and 2 speed on this EVO 2 is silky smooth. Might not be agressive enough for some drivers but for my driving style it's a perfect match.

Regards,
Speyederjedi
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:13 AM
  #260  
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Thanks for all your feedback. I am sure all these cars are great, but right now, I just don’t have the time/patience to put into the hobby. I just want a car that when I occasionally race, it runs decent. I talked to Ralph today at RC America and he gave me some suggestions, which I am going to try. I have to admit Ralph is very approachable and I feel he is there to support all Xray drivers. So hopefully, after doing this, the car will run better. Otherwise, I may get the Evo 2. This is no way a criticism on the Xray. Honestly, I have had the RRR and MTX3 before and the quality of the Xray seems very good. I just don’t have the time now to tinker with it. Furthermore, it’s probably is more of user error than the car lacking in any area.

Anyhow, thank you again for all for your honest feedback.
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Old 09-08-2008, 04:00 PM
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Hi,
What's the difference between the acre and app brake pads?

What do you think of Atomic option parts?

Last edited by shiston; 09-08-2008 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:38 PM
  #262  
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This may sound stupid, I ve been trying to find out how do guys adjust your camber at 0G, what does at 0G really means? All of my Kyoshos stock set up sheet has got this.
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dameetz
This may sound stupid, I ve been trying to find out how do guys adjust your camber at 0G, what does at 0G really means? All of my Kyoshos stock set up sheet has got this.
Can you post a picture of the setup sheet(s) so I can see what you are talking about?
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:24 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by dameetz
This may sound stupid, I ve been trying to find out how do guys adjust your camber at 0G, what does at 0G really means? All of my Kyoshos stock set up sheet has got this.
0G means measure car camber off ground, 1G mean measure camber car on the ground.

In old days serpent used to setup camber off the ground.
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tl2111
0G means measure car camber off ground, 1G mean measure camber car on the ground.

In old days serpent used to setup camber off the ground.
In english please Tommy??????
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:36 PM
  #266  
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In the old serpent days, you would push down on the chassis till its flat on a setup board then check the camber.
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:54 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by tl2111
0G means measure car camber off ground, 1G mean measure camber car on the ground.

In old days serpent used to setup camber off the ground.
So how do you actually do this 0G camber set up? Do you like, suspend the car in the air? If yes from which point do you take the camber angle from?
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:06 PM
  #268  
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Can you post a picture of the setup sheet(s) so I can see what you are talking about?
I dont have the pic right now but I m sure you can see on every Kyosho stock set up sheet, they have camber set circled at 0G and next to it is 1G.
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Old 09-09-2008, 04:54 AM
  #269  
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I am alittle confused here...

APP02-2 BRAKE.

Which is it?



OR

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Old 09-09-2008, 05:17 AM
  #270  
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I believe the first pic is the acre brakes and the second pic is the app pads.
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