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Old 01-29-2008, 01:41 AM   #31
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I agree it has more than enough torque for an onroad car, I was just correcting Sam. Now, to correct you, the BLS weighs 60 grams. 5 grams makes a difference to me. 10 grams makes twice as much difference. Us racers (you included Nigel) spend quite a bit of money on hopups.. some of which are only to save weight. If/When I look for new electronics for an onroad car, the weight is a factor in my decision. You may not think it is worth mentioning, but obviously I think it is worth mentioning.

I don't disagree that a Brushless should last longer and draw less power. I haven't really worn out any of the motors in my brushed servos, but a brushless should be better for a longer period of time.... Assuming you keep your servos for a long time.

Now back to the weight issue. Somebody puts two Brushless servos into their car at 60 grams each. I currently use a 9452 and a 9550 in my sedan. My servos weigh 25 grams less than your servos. How much money will you spend on titanium screws, or titanium pillow balls or whatever to save 25 grams? It all adds up. Remember that at the next club race you run where they aren't weighing the cars.
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Last edited by Scott Fisher; 01-29-2008 at 06:36 PM. Reason: I can't add correctly.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:05 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by nigelnuggets View Post
Less torque or not, even at 60oz/in an "entry-level" servo could still lift the weight of a sedan. The torque value on the servo itself is technically overkill if you think about it [email protected]/in, thats approximately 7.5lbs. Which is more than double the weight of the car. The BLS451 stands at 147oz/in which is approximately 9.2lbs/in.

the 25% of funding you spend on the servo = nothing compared to how much longer the servo lasts which is allegedly 5x longer.

and the weight of the servo according to the manufacturer:
BLS451: 2.0oz ~ 56g
S9452: 1.8oz ~ 51g

5 grams? is that even worth mentioning?
Figure in that a nitro onroad car is pulling up to 4 g's... 4x the weight of the car lol
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:50 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze View Post
The Brushless BLS451 is awesome, it does not draw amps like the brushed motor servo, the motor never gets hot and it has more Torque than the S9351.
Having more juice left in the RX battery would be nice. I wonder how much extra time you'd get off a typical 1000mAh battery? I know the BLS451 is 5 grams heavier (or 10 grams for 2 servos) but it's static weight, not rotational. Would a 10 gram static weight difference on a 1/8th car be a lap time killer?
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:55 AM   #34
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Now back to the weight issue. Somebody puts two Brushless servos into their car at 60 grams each. I currently use a 9452 and a 9550 in my sedan. My servos weigh 15 grams less than your servos. How much money will you spend on titanium screws, or titanium pillow balls or whatever to save 15 grams? It all adds up. Remember that at the next club race you run where they aren't weighing the cars.
I wonder, if I used two brushless low amp draw servos, could I use a lower capacity, lighter battery to get back the weight I gained and still not suffer a loss in run time?
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Old 01-29-2008, 10:42 AM   #35
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I wonder, if I used two brushless low amp draw servos, could I use a lower capacity, lighter battery to get back the weight I gained and still not suffer a loss in run time?
You probably could. I started weighing my batteries about 4 months ago. I have 3 different Nimh battery packs. They are between 1400 and 1600 each. The difference in weight was amazing. One pack weighed in at 101 grams. One weighed 112 grams and the third weighed in at 125 grams. The 1400mah pack was the HEAVIEST!.

Either way, I have gone to using a lipo battery and a regulator. Saved a ton of weight. I was able to lower my fuel tank by 2mm. I do have to add a lot of brass to my car now when I race a Roar race, but for club racing my car is very light. I don't know what the draw of servos are, but I think sometimes we are a more worried than needed.

Spektrum and digitals do use more electricty than analog servos and regular 75mhz. Spools are more common today as well and they will tend to use more electricty than if run a one way, but I can tell you this. I ran a 1hr long sedan main including 4 mins of warmup using the following equipment. I used an Airtronics 94357 steering servo, a 94737 throttle/brake servo and I was using a PT. I ran an Airtronics 75mhz receiver. I ran this on a regular Mugen 730 mah battery pack.
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:02 PM   #36
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All I do is race, dont bash, So for me the Lipo's are the way to go. On the servos I do believe that rx7 is correct on the torque needed for a nitro TC.. On my electric TC's I felt that 120oz was the minimum needed. On my Truggys I use a JR 9100T..you can never have to much servo on a nitro..
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:52 PM   #37
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Sorry Scott, it's the 9550, not the 9551. The 9550 sucked big time ceasing up after only 2 months use. The 9551 has yet to suck but if it's based on the 9550, I'm sure it won't disappoint and suck just fine after sustained use. I'm definitely not waiting to buy that. The BLS451 on the other hand, that's looking really nice. Anyone use one?
Sorry to hear about your Fut 9550 going bad. I have one that is 3 1/2 years old and it is still going strong. On the other hand I also had a brand new one that glitched all the time. I sent it for service, and Futaba replaced it with a 9452 since the 9551 was not released yet. I've since used two more 9550 withouth problems.


Be careful with throttle servos. I've killed 3 due to ABS function. Now I don't run abs when braking.
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Old 01-29-2008, 02:04 PM   #38
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When I ran two digital servos(air), I got an hour and 30 min run time till the servos slowed to where I noticed it.. an hour with an ori 1600 is easy to do..
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Old 01-29-2008, 03:41 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze View Post
The Brushless BLS451 is awesome, it does not draw amps like the brushed motor servo, the motor never gets hot and it has more Torque than the S9351.
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It has quite a bit less torque thant the S9351. A little bit more than the S9452, but also costs 25% more money and weighs 20% more. I would guess that it should be much more efficient than the brushed servos.

I meant S9350 which puts out 138.9 oz-in, not S9351.
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:26 PM   #40
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I have blown 2 9550's in my car within 2 months...I switched to all bl451 and everything has been perfect for over 4 months so far.

I would like to go lipo.
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:59 PM   #41
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I use digital KO 2143 steering servos in all my 1/10th scale cars and have been very happy with them. The KO servo is fast with sufficient torq and, considering my newest one is 4 years old, extremely reliable. For throttle I started with a quality digital servo but they kept failing I have since gone to a good analog futaba servo and haven't had a problem since.

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Old 01-30-2008, 09:20 PM   #42
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i run 1/10 nitro and i am still running my futaba 9451 in both steering and throttle haven't had any problems with them and if i were to get new ones i'd get the 9452. the servos are reliable and and plenty powerful and fast enough....
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:35 PM   #43
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... I have gone to using a lipo battery and a regulator. Saved a ton of weight. I was able to lower my fuel tank by 2mm. ...
Now that prices have started to fall a bit I'm interested in lipo. Which lipo regulator combo did you use?
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Old 01-31-2008, 05:29 AM   #44
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i like the protek lipo reciever pack either 1300 or 2300 will fit it really depends how much you want to lower the gas tank and how much weight you want to save....Also like the protek lipo regulator without the switch
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:02 AM   #45
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I used the protek 1300 lipo pack. As meron mentioned I was very interested in weight and space savings so it was the best choice. I chose the novak 3amp regulator with the switch. There are lots of regulators and I would probably choose a higher amperage regulator just for a margin of error. I also seem to be one of a dying breed that uses on/off switches.

Something else I did to save weight and keep things clean: I purchased the tool that crimps on servo plugs. All the electronics on my car have the wires cut to the proper length.

On my voltage regulator it was easier to cut off the shrink wrap the covers the voltage regulator. I unsoldered all the wires from the PC board and then cut them to length. Then I resoldered the wires and reshrunk the PC board. That all saves some weight, and makes the wiring a lot cleaner. If I ever want to eliminate the switch all I have to do is solder a jumper wire onto the PC board in place of the switch.
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