djmachinist

I got mine in the mail yesterday, very nice piece!

Thanks Brad & Roxanne

Dale Jones

MrSlow

iTrader: (1)

hello

new to 1/8 scale, basic question...

i am installing a body for the first time and realize that unlike 1/10 and 1/12 cars you cant raise or lower the rear body mount. as it is now the body seems really high in the back. is truing the tires the only way to lower it?

sm1nts2escape

iTrader: (16)

You can raise and lower the rear body mount with the different arms that com in the kit.The x version has you install the long mounts.

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

If it's an MRX4-X it came with two sets of "H-arms" that hold up the rear body mount. One set is longer than the other.
Side note - most of us are raising the rear of the body to the maximum allowed by the rules in order to increase downforce. Even to the point of buying extra long aftermarket "H-arms".

sm1nts2escape

iTrader: (16)

Itried the zytek and the 909 at exactly 11.5 in front of bumper.Zytek handled great 909 pushed.Moved the 909 to 12.5 and got alot of steering but rear would come loose under normal breaking.The zytek was the best body I ever used.

MrSlow

iTrader: (1)

so does this mean that the molded cut line on a body (mine a Parma R11) may be way off from where you cut? the cut line as the body now sits on my car is way high in back and not parallel with the ground...

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

Mount that body off of the rear dimples for the rear body post. Make sure both the front and rear mounts are rotated towards the front.
If I remember correctly you will want to use the short front body post plus the 2mm shim.
Find an old set of tyres and cut them to 63mmF/70mmR, ASSuming the car is set-up and ready to run. Put the car with these tires on a set-up board and mark around the body by laying a sharpie on it's side. That's what you cut...

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Never go by those cut lines. Just cut the flashing off, mount it then trim to fit.

MrSlow

iTrader: (1)

thanks everyone!

TommyBlazin

iTrader: (29)

thats a good way to go about it, obie1!!

asw7576

Sorry guys, .... Can I expect more cornering speed ( without pushing on medium speed corner ) by removing front stabiliser and adding 2mm shim underneath front upper arms ?

Thanks.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

The car might be hard to drive in other sections with no front sway bar...

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

I wouldn't remove the front stabilizer. Find the "Hudy setup guide" online, you'll find the key to your issue in there.

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

Yes sir...
No responce, no corner entry...

Post your set up and a link to the track your having this issue with.

asw7576

okey....

FRONT :

Track Width : 252mm
Ride Height : 7mm
Camber Angle : 2.5 deg LEFT , 2.0 deg RIGHT
Upper Arm Spacer (Caster ) : 2mm _ neutral
Toe Out : 1 deg
Rebound Stop ( Downstop ) : 0
Lower Arm Spacer ( Wheelbase ) : 0 _ short wheelbase
Upper Arm Spacer ( Roll Center ) : 1mm shim ( i'm going to replace it with 2mm shim )
Anti Roll Bar : flat ** ( i'm going to remove it )
Steering Ackerman : B
Front Damper : 2 holes, white spring, 450w, hole #2 from inside
Tire : Kawahara 35


REAR :

Track Width : 262mm
Ride Height : 9mm
Camber Angle : 4.0 deg LEFT , 3.5 deg RIGHT
Toe In : 2.5 deg LEFT, 2.5 deg RIGHT
Rebound Stop ( Downstop ) : 7
Upper Arm Spacer on Uprights ( Roll Center ) : 2mm shim
Upper Arm Position ( Upper link ) : outside_ shortest upper link
Lower Arm Suspension mount block ( Roll Center ) : 4.5
Anti Roll Bar : stock _ 3mm
Rear Damper : 1 hole, white spring, 450w, hole #2 from inside
1mm shorter wheelbase on rear suspension arms
Body Mount Arm : Highest
Tire : Kawahara 35

Body : Protoform T530 ( maybe this is also the culprit ).