Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

Just update the body to the protoform 909 and raise the rear of the body by approx 6mm

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Agreed, but if you are looking for more steering I would make sure you get that thing at least 12mm forward. I prefer 14 but some people think I'm nuts. Maybe mount it at 12 with the posts back so you can move it even more forward if you need to.

fulcrum2

and get the damping sorted

Front needs to be 1 hole 600w, rear 2 holes 600w (basic set-up)

asw7576

1 piston hole at front damper can help me to get less push ?? Even with my current setup I posted earlier, the push is still there u know.... [ I have to cornering at slower speed than my rivals' can ]

Maybe I should test 600w though.....

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

Like previously posted, just try updating the body to the protoform 909 or central body.... Go from there

fulcrum2

Yes, change the body to a modern one. For me, the Zytec is the best. It has more steering then the 909...

And go back to the set-up that came with the kit. With this basic settings you wont experience much push - it is pretty good.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Sounds like you have the same issue I have at 301. Always trying to find more steering at that track. Looking over your set-up, here are some things to try.

Go back to the stock shock set-up. Change the body to a 909 or Zytec. Put the front shocks in the lowest hole on the tower. And finally, try some 32 fronts with those 35 years.

If it still pushes after all that, get back to us and I can throw some more ideas at you. I have found that this car (for me anyway) often pushes on fast tracks. This is usually a body issue and can be fixed by either switching bodies or moving it forward.

asw7576

Thank you wingracer, fulcrum2 and francis.

I'll swicth the body to frizzbee ( this is currently what I have left in my closet ..... my LHS said 909 body is out of stock until august ). I also want to try 32 front. Let see the result on Sunday.

I have old bodies because I bought few of them in one shot in the past .... and when 909 is released, I'm stuck like you can see me now.

sheeley

just my opinion but if you still have steering issues and have time to try different things i will give you a couple of things to try. that track looks like a high speed track and if it has good traction and you dont have rear traction issues then take rear toe out. rear toe in fights steering. start with 1 degree and if your rear tires are wearing at a 3 degree angle then put less camber. you can move the collars forward on the rear sway bar to make it stiffer. try your front sway bar vertical and then at 45 angle and then flat. if you have more steering with the front sway bar vertcal then your front end may just be too soft. if your rear traction is still good you can put the adjustable rear sway bar and get all the steering you want , good luck

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

[QUOTE=sheeley;6040114if your rear traction is still good you can put the adjustable rear sway bar and get all the steering you want , good luck[/QUOTE]

I love the blade rear bar but people around here look at me funny when they see it on my car.

asw7576

Just for small conversations among us ( maybe my question has been answered in the past ...., but for me , this is new stuff ).

Why our 1/8 cars don't use rear diff ? Is there any reason not using it ?

InstantTilt

Is the car pushing on corner entry or on power exit?

InstantTilt

FRONT :

Track Width : 252mm
Ride Height : 7mm
Camber Angle : 1.5 deg LEFT , 1.5 deg RIGHT
Upper Arm Spacer (Caster ) : 2mm _ neutral
Toe Out : 1 deg
Rebound Stop ( Downstop ) : 0 (Check the droop at 0 and See what it is... Try taking away drop if car pushes on power)
Lower Arm Spacer ( Wheelbase ) : 0 _ short wheelbase
Upper Arm Spacer ( Roll Center ) : 1mm shim ( i'm going to replace it with 2mm shim )
Anti Roll Bar : flat ** ( i'm going to remove it )
Steering Ackerman : B
Front Damper : 2 holes, white spring, 450w, hole #2 from inside
Tire : Kawahara 35 - Try a 32 if track does not have bite, other wise issue is in rear of car.


REAR :

Track Width : 262mm
Ride Height : 9mm - Way to High, .5 rake max with this car... 7.00mm
Camber Angle : 4.0 deg LEFT , 3.5 deg RIGHT 2.5 all the way around.....Track is way to fast for this much camber.
Toe In : 2.5 deg LEFT, 2.5 deg RIGHT
Rebound Stop ( Downstop ) : 7 ----- 9
Upper Arm Spacer on Uprights ( Roll Center ) : 2mm shim Play with this if the car does not rotate on mid corner out.
Upper Arm Position ( Upper link ) : outside_ shortest upper link
Lower Arm Suspension mount block ( Roll Center ) : 4.5 - 5.0 Unless your bite is sick.
Anti Roll Bar : stock _ 3mm - Set at zero till car starts turning... Fine adjustment.
Rear Damper : 1 hole, white spring, 450w, hole #2 from inside
1mm shorter wheelbase on rear suspension arms - 3mm Short is great rotation. I do not like short wheelbase and looking at your track, i would suspect it not be nesc.
Body Mount Arm : Highest
Tire : Kawahara 35

Body : Protoform T530 ( maybe this is also the culprit ). not the best but car should still turn. Make sure gurney strip is not too high.

[

occ

iTrader: (16)

I have raced on this track in Jakarta but not with a Mugen. The track is very bumpy with high tire wear but the grip does come up when there is a lot of cars racing around.

I suggest you get the Protoform P909 when its available or the Xytec and try the setups mentioned here. Also use 32 fronts, 35 rear when the grip is low, then change to 35 fronts & 37 rears when the grips comes up.

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

I think with those big rear tires getting so much traction (which is great for acceleration), we have to break them loose in order to get the car to turn?