boner

iTrader: (4)

a few. might be more than you think. kyosho have a huge group of loyalities in state

Aku-Man

My 3R coming this week. This is my first nitro car. Hope Kyosho won't let me down.

compaq888

part number 73 in the RRR manual. The RR doesn't have that, and it causes the steering to be a little bit loose, But if you have that part the steering won't be that loose. Because without that part if you tighten the big nut, part 194 then the car won't steer because it's too tight. Part 73 allows for part 194 to be more tight and the less part number 2 will move around, and the car's steering won't be loose. It's hard to explain, I wish I can show it to you. I'm not saying the steering is that loose, I'm saying that it will be less loose and it will improve the car.

spdmkr

I've got one and one brand new in the box for sale

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

They are comparing RR evo's with RRR's not RR's and RRR's

buboy28

they wont, it's a durable car post some pics after you finish building it i'm planning to get one also

mikecatts

iTrader: (18)

i have owened the r series since the first car,,
they all had simmelar issues...no good in high tracktion....couldnt get enough camber on the rear due to the rear geometry...the mugen got it right and have stuck with it...ive got the rrr comming real soon and im hoping that they have corrected this...the pics seem to say they have...i own the fw-05r as well..its ok in high traction,,but being a shaft drive, it demonstrates some new things to tackle.....car stepping out on power due to the 'back-lash' from all the driving parts..( think about it)...belts are smoother..
mike

kidDynomite

Thanks, Brain! Yes the comparison was based on RR Evo vs. 3R. I haven't looked at the part no.'s yet to compare to see if they are using the same steering (low CG servo layout) parts as the Evo.

I do believe that the 3R will be the better due to evolving the V-One series: lighter, better battery balance and all the extra tuning aids like high & low roll adj, the new adjustable inner pin-pivot points and adj. belt tensioners on the main diff bearings.

I don't have the car yet, but to see all the new stuff in the manual really makes me want it more.

KitRacer, thanks for the updates!

MikeCatts, you're right, belts are smoother.

compaq888

the whole back end of the RR evo is the RR, and some parts in the front.

I gotten some more stuff for the car yesterday, I copied some of Manticore's stuff by looking at the pics and it works.

Also I modified the wing like hell in the back, it got enough screws to pop a wheelie, j/k, but still a lot of screws. I will be saving up for an RRR soon, but I'll wait a little till the prices come down.

Kiddynomite, have you seen my RR pics, they are in the link in my profile, you should check them out.

kidDynomite

c888, did you ever get your alumin hex's for your new wheels?

Yeah, I saw you're RR. Looks good! But did you ever have any problems with your fuel tubing going over the carb like that? When I first got my RR 2yrs back, that was the way I set it up and I couldn't figure out why I kept flaming out. Until my dad (mechanical engineer) came to watch me at the track and noticed my fuel tubing was going up. He said it was causing vapor lock during high temps. Simply said, the air gets trapped at the top of the loop trapping fuel from getting to the engine. I lowered the tube around the head and I finished every race. Just curious.

drfritz

thats why I put the mugen rear on the car, really made a BIG difference in the way the car works. I'm the only guy that runs a K car at my track. I can count on one hand the number of races I have not won this season so far. the car is just so easy to drive, I never have to push it hard and still end up winning by a number of laps.

forty6

Can somebody please list all the parts needed to convert the rear end to Manti's MOne-RR?

drfritz

I did not feel like having to buy all the mugan stuff so I ended up doing some mods to the mugan rear up rights to make them work with the k cars parts.
1st I ended up taking a high spped dreme and removing some material so the piviot balls would work, after that I had to add some shims to the back of thedrive cups( between the bearing and drive cup) to take up the slop,
2nd you have to remove about a 1/8 inch of the arms, I cut them flush with the shock mounts, if not the rear is to wide. thats it. I found that with the mugan rear, the car likes a little more neg camber than the old up rights did, start out with -2.0. good luck.

compaq888

I didn't convert the back end, just changed some stuff on the car. It's not worth converting the car, it's easier to just get the RRR

Taylor-Racing

Mugen T0229 F/R axle shaft 1
Mugen T0230 F/r drive shaft 1
Mugen T0139 Rear up right 1
Mugen D0105R king pin 2
Mugen J0110 adjust nut 2
3 Racing mtx3-008 wheel adaptor 1
10 x 15 ball bearing 2
6 x 13 ball bearing 2