Taylor-Racing

VZW025 Kyosho 64 Ti / Middle Shaft
VZW026 Kyosho 64 Ti / 2nd Main Shaft

esham

Thankk you

Taylor-Racing

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GTone,

Very cool.
There's a lot of work in that conversion.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Why are you running such thick diff fluid up front??? You're not running a 1/5 scale car! No more than 50,000 wt. diff fluid, up front, is needed in a 1/10 scale nitro touring car. If, your car is turning in too fast or the car is traction-rolling, its more than likely your shocks! The shock bladders will collapse, bleed and not dampen correctly. If, this is the case, you'll need to put a couple of o-rings on top of each bladder. This will stop them from collapsing. Good Luck!

aznxlionhrt

the owner was stupid. I got no reply from his email anyways.

esham

Hello guys is anybody know how much weight different these shaft compare then the original shaft?

Is the VZW025 and VZW026 can be used for V1RR Evo?

Taylor-Racing

Yes, they are for the Evo and work just fine.
Dunno the exact weight difference, but Ti weighs roughly half that of steel.

buboy28

HI THERE, I HAVE A KYOSHO BOX LIKE THAT AND ITS THE RR VERSION USING FOAM TIRES AND PROBABLY MOUNTING FOR A LOLA BODY. THIS MODEL USES THE HUMP TYPE OF RECEIVER BATTERY. HOPE THIS HELPS

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

Nah my car isnt suffering any of those problems kewdawg, i was asking about the 30,000 in the rear as you have mentioned that running with one ways is best suited with 30,000 at the rears. so i thought if i was running 100,000 at the front maybe i should use 30,000 at the rear? and thanks for the diff oil advise ill re-oil my front diff soon. i've just changed the rear last weekend and put in 5,000 so now i got 100k Front and 5k Rear. do you think 50k fronts and 5k rear is a good combination?

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

If, you're going to run 5,000 wt. oil in the rear, then start with 30,000 wt. diff oil in the front. You should set-up your diffs according to the level of traction, at the track your racing on. The higher, the level of traction, the heavier the diff oil (but don't forget to consider the layout - big track with flowing / sweeping turns, use heavier diff oil).

The Rogue

What thickness rear diff oil comes in the Evolution kit?

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the tip! but do you think with 30,000 at the front will make the car loose traction easier? the level of traction at my track is low. i've ran 30,000 fronts and 10,000 rear on my VoneS and i had to put quite abit of toe in and negative camber at the rear to obtain good rear traction and this was with foams.
Thanks on this info Kewdawg

compaq888

guys my RR oversteers like crazy. After the sweeper if i let go off the gas it makes the turn good, but on the other turns it oversteers like crazy and cars go by me. Also if i brake the car understeers like crazy, any ideas?

kidDynomite

I customized my one-way to be a solid spool with a little dremelling, drilling, JBWeld and some pins. I then set the rear diff with 30,000 (help turn in faster_keep it loose_unless your track is super fast). I swear, I don't know how I ever ran without one. I loved my one-way but even with the car tweaked to perfection, I couldnt break last second down the straights. NTC3 were taking me on the inside. And us K-car guys can't have any of that.

Now I can hit the breaks within the last 3-5 feet of a 200 ft straight. If I wanted I could even start turning in while breaking and with my Rody V12, I shoot straight out of the inside line blocking anyone to pass me.

It changes your driving style but it's easier to race than with the one-way. You can blimp throttle it through the whole turn to keep the engine from loading ... and then BAM!!! full power out ... shoot for the next turn and dive like a mo-fo.

I had the same probs with oversteer. I slammed the engine as low as possible with a Kawahara micro clutch, put a flat AAA pack all the way forward on the chassis with a RTR NTC3 fuel tank on top. I used the RTRs tank because it's longer and lower than the Factory Team tank. Since the tank has 3 mounting screws. I used a Serpent 950 battery holder upside down, screwed to the TC3 tank and modified it to also mount my AMB Trans at the bottom too.

Lower your throttle servo to about .03mm above the bottom chassis too. It doesnt really matter if your throttle servo isn't in a laydown LC position like the new RRR, because the bulk of the weight of the servo is in the motor which on most is located at the bottom of the case (except for HiTech Servos_they're just plain heavy all around). And if you have to mount your reciever and wires above a laydown servo. You really defeat the purpose of the Lower Center of gravity idea anyways.

Set front toe to 0 with 10 degrees of caster. Camber is about 1.5mm. You won't need much camber up front since the caster will set you in the right wheel angle in you turn in.

Ride it at 4.5mm front, 5mm in back. The foward lean and the new front weight of the battery position will help drive the front wheels in the ground (solid spool).

I cant figure how to post pix up in here, but if you can help me out, I'll post them tonight when I get home.

compaq888

would getting more weight to the car make it turn better?

also I run Hitec MG servo for steering and airtronics servo for throttle. My car was like 6-7mm all around last saturday, but I lowered it, still lowering actually, broke my shock and waiting for the part from tower to get here so i can install it.

I have all kinds of foam tires, so changing them worn't be a problem.

My engine is low, I'm not using the factory motor mounts. Also I plan to change the glow plug and the clutch spring after the break in.