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Old 07-26-2004, 04:58 AM   #11386
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Quote:
Originally posted by esham
Sorry for intteruption - Is anybody know any brand that carries titanium Middle and main shaft for the V1RR? What i found was only High harded shaft or aluminium only from 3racing, Five Star ... not the titanium. ANybody. Thank you
VZW025 Kyosho 64 Ti / Middle Shaft
VZW026 Kyosho 64 Ti / 2nd Main Shaft

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Old 07-26-2004, 05:10 AM   #11387
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Thankk you
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Old 07-26-2004, 06:18 AM   #11388
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Quote:
Originally posted by GTone
Hello !

I Modified my RR Evo !

look at the centences in my web site

=> V-One RR EVO 2
\

GTone,

Very cool.
There's a lot of work in that conversion.
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Old 07-26-2004, 06:55 AM   #11389
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Default Re: Re: Re: running one-way

Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Hey if im running 100,000 diff oil at the front should i also use a heavy diff oil in the rear like 30,000. just like the oneway diff setup?
Why are you running such thick diff fluid up front??? You're not running a 1/5 scale car! No more than 50,000 wt. diff fluid, up front, is needed in a 1/10 scale nitro touring car. If, your car is turning in too fast or the car is traction-rolling, its more than likely your shocks! The shock bladders will collapse, bleed and not dampen correctly. If, this is the case, you'll need to put a couple of o-rings on top of each bladder. This will stop them from collapsing. Good Luck!
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Old 07-26-2004, 02:09 PM   #11390
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the owner was stupid. I got no reply from his email anyways.
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Old 07-27-2004, 12:24 AM   #11391
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
VZW025 Kyosho 64 Ti / Middle Shaft
VZW026 Kyosho 64 Ti / 2nd Main Shaft

Hello guys is anybody know how much weight different these shaft compare then the original shaft?

Is the VZW025 and VZW026 can be used for V1RR Evo?
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Last edited by esham; 07-27-2004 at 04:07 AM.
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Old 07-27-2004, 04:54 AM   #11392
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Quote:
Originally posted by esham
Hello guys is anybody know how much weight different these shaft compare then the original shaft?

Is the VZW025 and VZW026 can be used for V1RR Evo?
Yes, they are for the Evo and work just fine.
Dunno the exact weight difference, but Ti weighs roughly half that of steel.
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Old 07-27-2004, 05:03 AM   #11393
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Quote:
Originally posted by aznxlionhrt
anybody know what v one series is this, the R or RR? I'm confused, because the title was said v one r GRP special edition.

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWN:IT



and what battery pack should i buy for that? The car is coming to me in 2days. time for me to get rid of my nasty mtx-2. hehe kyosho rocks.
HI THERE, I HAVE A KYOSHO BOX LIKE THAT AND ITS THE RR VERSION USING FOAM TIRES AND PROBABLY MOUNTING FOR A LOLA BODY. THIS MODEL USES THE HUMP TYPE OF RECEIVER BATTERY. HOPE THIS HELPS
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Old 07-27-2004, 05:40 AM   #11394
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: running one-way

Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
Why are you running such thick diff fluid up front??? You're not running a 1/5 scale car! No more than 50,000 wt. diff fluid, up front, is needed in a 1/10 scale nitro touring car. If, your car is turning in too fast or the car is traction-rolling, its more than likely your shocks! The shock bladders will collapse, bleed and not dampen correctly. If, this is the case, you'll need to put a couple of o-rings on top of each bladder. This will stop them from collapsing. Good Luck!
Nah my car isnt suffering any of those problems kewdawg, i was asking about the 30,000 in the rear as you have mentioned that running with one ways is best suited with 30,000 at the rears. so i thought if i was running 100,000 at the front maybe i should use 30,000 at the rear? and thanks for the diff oil advise ill re-oil my front diff soon. i've just changed the rear last weekend and put in 5,000 so now i got 100k Front and 5k Rear. do you think 50k fronts and 5k rear is a good combination?
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Old 07-27-2004, 09:06 AM   #11395
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: running one-way

Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Nah my car isnt suffering any of those problems kewdawg, i was asking about the 30,000 in the rear as you have mentioned that running with one ways is best suited with 30,000 at the rears. so i thought if i was running 100,000 at the front maybe i should use 30,000 at the rear? and thanks for the diff oil advise ill re-oil my front diff soon. i've just changed the rear last weekend and put in 5,000 so now i got 100k Front and 5k Rear. do you think 50k fronts and 5k rear is a good combination?
If, you're going to run 5,000 wt. oil in the rear, then start with 30,000 wt. diff oil in the front. You should set-up your diffs according to the level of traction, at the track your racing on. The higher, the level of traction, the heavier the diff oil (but don't forget to consider the layout - big track with flowing / sweeping turns, use heavier diff oil).
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Old 07-27-2004, 09:49 PM   #11396
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Default What is standard?

What thickness rear diff oil comes in the Evolution kit?
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Old 07-28-2004, 04:07 AM   #11397
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: running one-way

Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
If, you're going to run 5,000 wt. oil in the rear, then start with 30,000 wt. diff oil in the front. You should set-up your diffs according to the level of traction, at the track your racing on. The higher, the level of traction, the heavier the diff oil (but don't forget to consider the layout - big track with flowing / sweeping turns, use heavier diff oil).
Thanks for the tip! but do you think with 30,000 at the front will make the car loose traction easier? the level of traction at my track is low. i've ran 30,000 fronts and 10,000 rear on my VoneS and i had to put quite abit of toe in and negative camber at the rear to obtain good rear traction and this was with foams.
Thanks on this info Kewdawg
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Old 07-28-2004, 04:22 AM   #11398
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guys my RR oversteers like crazy. After the sweeper if i let go off the gas it makes the turn good, but on the other turns it oversteers like crazy and cars go by me. Also if i brake the car understeers like crazy, any ideas?
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Old 07-28-2004, 11:53 AM   #11399
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I customized my one-way to be a solid spool with a little dremelling, drilling, JBWeld and some pins. I then set the rear diff with 30,000 (help turn in faster_keep it loose_unless your track is super fast). I swear, I don't know how I ever ran without one. I loved my one-way but even with the car tweaked to perfection, I couldnt break last second down the straights. NTC3 were taking me on the inside. And us K-car guys can't have any of that.

Now I can hit the breaks within the last 3-5 feet of a 200 ft straight. If I wanted I could even start turning in while breaking and with my Rody V12, I shoot straight out of the inside line blocking anyone to pass me.

It changes your driving style but it's easier to race than with the one-way. You can blimp throttle it through the whole turn to keep the engine from loading ... and then BAM!!! full power out ... shoot for the next turn and dive like a mo-fo.

I had the same probs with oversteer. I slammed the engine as low as possible with a Kawahara micro clutch, put a flat AAA pack all the way forward on the chassis with a RTR NTC3 fuel tank on top. I used the RTRs tank because it's longer and lower than the Factory Team tank. Since the tank has 3 mounting screws. I used a Serpent 950 battery holder upside down, screwed to the TC3 tank and modified it to also mount my AMB Trans at the bottom too.

Lower your throttle servo to about .03mm above the bottom chassis too. It doesnt really matter if your throttle servo isn't in a laydown LC position like the new RRR, because the bulk of the weight of the servo is in the motor which on most is located at the bottom of the case (except for HiTech Servos_they're just plain heavy all around). And if you have to mount your reciever and wires above a laydown servo. You really defeat the purpose of the Lower Center of gravity idea anyways.

Set front toe to 0 with 10 degrees of caster. Camber is about 1.5mm. You won't need much camber up front since the caster will set you in the right wheel angle in you turn in.

Ride it at 4.5mm front, 5mm in back. The foward lean and the new front weight of the battery position will help drive the front wheels in the ground (solid spool).

I cant figure how to post pix up in here, but if you can help me out, I'll post them tonight when I get home.
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Old 07-28-2004, 04:02 PM   #11400
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would getting more weight to the car make it turn better?

also I run Hitec MG servo for steering and airtronics servo for throttle. My car was like 6-7mm all around last saturday, but I lowered it, still lowering actually, broke my shock and waiting for the part from tower to get here so i can install it.

I have all kinds of foam tires, so changing them worn't be a problem.

My engine is low, I'm not using the factory motor mounts. Also I plan to change the glow plug and the clutch spring after the break in.
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