Kyosho VoneR Thread
#5926
the side front pulley is 25T.
i tried run the 40 Front (4-5mm) and a paired with set of new rear 40s.
This way i thought i could get more grip but it didnt.
Instead, the front was heavy than b4 and causing the car to run wide if i get on the gas entering the corner. So this understeer problem still exist not until i put on the new front tyres.
any solution to my problem?
i tried run the 40 Front (4-5mm) and a paired with set of new rear 40s.
This way i thought i could get more grip but it didnt.
Instead, the front was heavy than b4 and causing the car to run wide if i get on the gas entering the corner. So this understeer problem still exist not until i put on the new front tyres.
any solution to my problem?
#5927
Originally posted by RClover
the side front pulley is 25T.
i tried run the 40 Front (4-5mm) and a paired with set of new rear 40s.
This way i thought i could get more grip but it didnt.
Instead, the front was heavy than b4 and causing the car to run wide if i get on the gas entering the corner. So this understeer problem still exist not until i put on the new front tyres.
any solution to my problem?
the side front pulley is 25T.
i tried run the 40 Front (4-5mm) and a paired with set of new rear 40s.
This way i thought i could get more grip but it didnt.
Instead, the front was heavy than b4 and causing the car to run wide if i get on the gas entering the corner. So this understeer problem still exist not until i put on the new front tyres.
any solution to my problem?
Simple solution is to keep the front and rear tire diameters the same or very close. Handling will improve as the foams wear down, as long as you keep them the same front and rear.
#5928
Tech Master
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Forget all this pulley talk.
Simple solution is to keep the front and rear tire diameters the same or very close. Handling will improve as the foams wear down, as long as you keep them the same front and rear.
Forget all this pulley talk.
Simple solution is to keep the front and rear tire diameters the same or very close. Handling will improve as the foams wear down, as long as you keep them the same front and rear.
I like simple solutions
#5929
Manti...your setup pls..
Hi Manti,
Could u kindly post your RR setup for my reference?
Front Geometry:
Shock Spring -
Shock Oil -
No Shock Tower used
Downstop -
Toe -
Camber -
Castor - (how clips arranged?)
Anti Roll -
Front One-way
Ride Height -
Tyre -
Track Width -
Rear Geometry:
Shock Spring -
Shock Oil -
Shock Mounted on the lowest hole (5star Shock tower)
Downstop -
Toe -
Camber -
Sway Bar -
Ride Height -
Rear Diff - 100k
Tyre -
Track Width -
Thank you.
Could u kindly post your RR setup for my reference?
Front Geometry:
Shock Spring -
Shock Oil -
No Shock Tower used
Downstop -
Toe -
Camber -
Castor - (how clips arranged?)
Anti Roll -
Front One-way
Ride Height -
Tyre -
Track Width -
Rear Geometry:
Shock Spring -
Shock Oil -
Shock Mounted on the lowest hole (5star Shock tower)
Downstop -
Toe -
Camber -
Sway Bar -
Ride Height -
Rear Diff - 100k
Tyre -
Track Width -
Thank you.
#5930
Clutch bell
when the engine idle and car at stationary, i noticed the clutch bell was spinning slowly making the spur gears to spin as well. Is this normal? But the car is standstill.
i started noticeing this after i hit the board at the cap screw area on the crankshaft without the body on and the engine died after that.
But i did dismantle and had a check on the bearings & parts...all seem in working order except the clutch bell spinning slowly when the car is at standstill.
Anything wrong here?
thanks
i started noticeing this after i hit the board at the cap screw area on the crankshaft without the body on and the engine died after that.
But i did dismantle and had a check on the bearings & parts...all seem in working order except the clutch bell spinning slowly when the car is at standstill.
Anything wrong here?
thanks
#5931
Re: Clutch bell
Originally posted by RClover
when the engine idle and car at stationary, i noticed the clutch bell was spinning slowly making the spur gears to spin as well. Is this normal? But the car is standstill.
i started noticeing this after i hit the board at the cap screw area on the crankshaft without the body on and the engine died after that.
But i did dismantle and had a check on the bearings & parts...all seem in working order except the clutch bell spinning slowly when the car is at standstill.
Anything wrong here?
thanks
when the engine idle and car at stationary, i noticed the clutch bell was spinning slowly making the spur gears to spin as well. Is this normal? But the car is standstill.
i started noticeing this after i hit the board at the cap screw area on the crankshaft without the body on and the engine died after that.
But i did dismantle and had a check on the bearings & parts...all seem in working order except the clutch bell spinning slowly when the car is at standstill.
Anything wrong here?
thanks
#5932
Re: Re: Clutch bell
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Nope this is normal. You will notice you can spin the 2 speed unit backwards without the car moving. It is just the engines vibrations making this occur.
Nope this is normal. You will notice you can spin the 2 speed unit backwards without the car moving. It is just the engines vibrations making this occur.
BTW, what is the chance of getting the crankshaft bend (front portion) ? are these shaft super duper strong and made to last?
Also, what would be the most significant difference (in terms of driving feel) if i change to a solid rear axle from a diff wif 100k grease?
Last edited by RClover; 01-23-2003 at 01:43 AM.
#5933
Re: Manti...your setup pls..
Originally posted by RClover
Hi Manti,
Could u kindly post your RR setup for my reference?
Front Geometry:
Shock Spring - fantom red
Shock Oil - 80wt
No Shock Tower used
Downstop - little
Toe - 0.5 to 1
Camber - 2.5
Castor - (how clips arranged?) one thin behind upper a-arm
Anti Roll - softest
Front One-way
Ride Height - 4
Tyre - 40 shore
Track Width - 200mm
Rear Geometry:
Shock Spring - fantom red
Shock Oil - 55wt
Shock Mounted on the lowest hole (5star Shock tower)
Downstop - spring just touch coil retainer when car left
Toe - 2.5
Camber - 4
Sway Bar - black
Ride Height - 4mm
Rear Diff - solid
Tyre - 40 shore
Track Width - 200mm
Thank you.
Hi Manti,
Could u kindly post your RR setup for my reference?
Front Geometry:
Shock Spring - fantom red
Shock Oil - 80wt
No Shock Tower used
Downstop - little
Toe - 0.5 to 1
Camber - 2.5
Castor - (how clips arranged?) one thin behind upper a-arm
Anti Roll - softest
Front One-way
Ride Height - 4
Tyre - 40 shore
Track Width - 200mm
Rear Geometry:
Shock Spring - fantom red
Shock Oil - 55wt
Shock Mounted on the lowest hole (5star Shock tower)
Downstop - spring just touch coil retainer when car left
Toe - 2.5
Camber - 4
Sway Bar - black
Ride Height - 4mm
Rear Diff - solid
Tyre - 40 shore
Track Width - 200mm
Thank you.
#5934
Re: Re: Manti...your setup pls..
Originally posted by Manticore
also, what would be the most significant change in car handling if change to a rear solid axle from a rear diff wif 100k grease?
thanks million...
#5935
Re: Re: Re: Manti...your setup pls..
Originally posted by RClover
how long did the 40s Front & Rear tyres lasted on your track?
also, what would be the most significant change in car handling if change to a rear solid axle from a rear diff wif 100k grease?
thanks million...
how long did the 40s Front & Rear tyres lasted on your track?
also, what would be the most significant change in car handling if change to a rear solid axle from a rear diff wif 100k grease?
thanks million...
#5936
Originally posted by AMGRacer
US$250 aint too bad at all when you consider that a JP 5 port is around the same money
US$250 aint too bad at all when you consider that a JP 5 port is around the same money
where the heck did you get one for us 250!!???
#5937
Re: Re: Re: Re: Manti...your setup pls..
Originally posted by Manticore
great on power steering and straight line stability
great on power steering and straight line stability
And how long did the 40s Front & Rear tyres lasted on your track?
#5938
Originally posted by patelladragger
where the heck did you get one for us 250!!???
where the heck did you get one for us 250!!???
#5939
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Manti...your setup pls..
Originally posted by RClover
juz saw a K-factory solid rear, is that good?
And how long did the 40s Front & Rear tyres lasted on your track?
juz saw a K-factory solid rear, is that good?
And how long did the 40s Front & Rear tyres lasted on your track?
#5940
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Manti...your setup pls..
Originally posted by Manticore
I have this solid axle on my V1RR and it is the lightest one available. I also have the kawahara one.
I have this solid axle on my V1RR and it is the lightest one available. I also have the kawahara one.
I tested out there yesterday and found the track is to be medium-high traction. Overall the handling is much predictable now than another temporary parking lot track that i used to play. Tyre wear now is much reasonable and i will try out 40/ 42 shores.
But one thing i noticed though is that the car seemed drifting quite a bit when i powered through the corner. Drifting effect means more tyre wear? the car run wide if i powered too hard through the corner... How should i correct this?
Thanks Manti and guys...