AMGRacer

I am not manti

But basically you change the 2 19T pulleys on the mani shaft to 24T pulleys. Then you use different sized belts and away you go!

tl2111

iTrader: (21)

But if you change the side pulley as well then your front will be under drive this is according to my ODR calculation.

AMGRacer

No you change 2 pulleys. One to the rear diff and the one on the side belt. Therefore the front and rear gains equal amount of ratio alteration.

tl2111

iTrader: (21)

I know what you mean, that's what I thought as well, but it not the same on my speadsheet and the formulas that I use is from serpent network long time ago!

AMGRacer

OK I just performed the MTX3 modification.

Some amendments, the king pins and the adjusting nuts come in packs of 2 so you need 2 packs of each.

I removed my kyosho V1RR rear hub and attached the mugen one without changing anything. I screwed the pivot balls in to the same as the RR, .5mm and it is almost perfectly 200mm. Also I did not have to modify the top link at all yet!

With no spacers on the Mugen hub it is almost identical to the top hole of the RR hub So we can only go up from here

HEYALIGNMENTGUY

And what shall "we" recomend to use as spacers and what should be a good starting point ?

AMGRacer

Dunno have not got that far yet Manticore recommends 3mm as the starting point. Mine has not hit the track yet

Taylor-Racing

I take it that the "king pins" you refer to are the pivot balls for toe control, yeah?

Oh, that sounds like it worked out a bit different to Manti's?
Did you use the MTX-3 bones.

Sounds good to me.

AMGRacer

Yeah the mugen packaging calls them king pins, they are just pivotballs.

Mantis took a bit more messing around since his was a V1R not a RR. The RR fits the Mugen hubs almost perfectly. You must use longer bones than the v1rr ones at least. Dunno about stock v1r.

Taylor-Racing

You sure?
Manti's back end looked like a RR to me. - if you will pardon the expression.
Here's his last pic:

Manticore

to be precise, my V1RR is actually V1R.R

I upgrade it to V1RR from a V1R

To summarize, if you

mod from a V1RR, you dont need to adjust camber link

mod from a V1R, you need to adjust camber link to achieve 200mm track width

RClover

I am really confused now...
mine is a V-1-R GRP Wide sponge version. what parts should i get to mod the MTX-3 rear hub?
thanks...

Manticore

same parts
but you need to check track width anyway.

Jack

hahaha.. seem that everyone is jumping on to convert the rear end similar to manti rear......
everyone is loving your rear manti

RClover

yeah....everybody likes Manti's backside..........