On a track as you describe, I would start out with 30,000 rear XRAY diff oil and 80,000 front diff. If the car is still loose with the rear sliding around leaving the corners, drop it down. 450 xray shock oil and if the track is very small, run the dark blue springs, but if it is tight and a bit bigger, run the stock ones. make sure you run the 25 tooth side pully, but if the car does not rotate well in the corner, try the 26, it will put the car in a 1:1 drive ratio and will help.

That's a good idea. I was looking at the box and came up with a good one. Where the switch would go i was gonna stick the extension there sticking out which would let me plug into. I like this idea also but the more i thought about it it made me worry. If i pushed down to hard and it came loose then i would have to take the box out and open it which could make me late for the a-main.
:lol::lol:

Ok. does this require any modifications, ie can I just install it or will there be cutting involved?

How bad is the wear on the disc? I would think the wearing will be on the pads mostly ...

Thanks.

its a bit of trimming with a #11 exacto blade for the teflon pad.. if you can build the car right to begin with.. you can easily make this pad combo.. just prep the backing plate and use a quality "shoe goo"

I have tested other bars but I usually go back to the 2.0 and MAYBE shorten distance between the collar and the holders (stiffer by say 2mm) violet front, dark blue rear depending on grip.. I do love the 0.7mm front bar. used to disconnect front bar.. now its actually in a usable range.. (softer)

My NT1 is stock and will get to run straight into battle. Do we nead some optionals to play better.?As the yellow clutch shoe..?
The race would be a test for me and certainly would bring questions about setup.:):)


Please note that I don't have played with the car again. Is the first time because it is brand new

car is good out of the box, front 0.7 bars, yellow clutch shoe if your track has grip, the dark blue - light purple (pink) springs front and rear.. diff and shock oils.. course tires too lol.. oh and maybe a spool for the front depending on your track.. teflon brake pads too.. other than that its money for just starting out.. I just made my car light other than that..

hey foolz you going to winternats?

We will se..
Thanks;):)

The disk is pretty thin and made from a pretty soft metal.
So when it's a bit weared it get's to thin and overheats.
Then you have to replace it, and with the pricetag the serpent disk's have that's not that great.
But for next season i will try the capricorn light disk, see how that goes.

As it stands right now, I am going, but only to mechanic, not race.

you want to mechanic for me too? lmao.. I will drink while you work on my car lol... I am going to try to go if the GF doesn't cut off my head lmao.

I've been asked by 2 guys but as it stands, I hadn't said yes just yet. You will be getting an email for Christmas:lol:

email for christmas... hmm.. not sure I wanna see that email lol

Now I'm jealous, :sneaky:

sam, there will be no circle jerk.. ok.. so don't ask. lol

brad, sam. Sam Brad. stop hating.. sam didn't say anything bad. it was me foo.

anyone tried these?
http://www.rc-union.com/product_info...ducts_id=11698
the one thing that I hate is to be 5 mins into a main and have brake fade start to happen!
thanks :)

Yeah I have been using these pads for a whole season they work really well especially if you get the capricorn or the xceed or yes i dare say the 3racing brake rotor you wont be dissapointed in them much better than stock thats for sure

Anyone got an Nt1 08 for sale? Next to new.

Thanks.

Would really like to run this car but overtime at work (my RC fund !? .... lol) has dried up :-(

pm me with any tips.

British Menace

hey I own the Mugen mtx4 right now but thinking of switching to xray nt1,

Is xray going to redo the car's design or is it a ok to buy one now and not worry about it being outdated?

I wouldn't worry about a new car till at least mid 09. They did well at the worlds with the car more or less out of the box, different clutch shoe, lightened bells, lightened this part or that. But more or less the same car I am running at club races.

Hi guys I have found my side belt a bit loose but when I tighten it hits the front back screw on the engine mount?is it ok to ground this screw down a bit so I can tighten the belt up a bit more or is there another way?does he one piece mount eliminate this problem?
thanks:)

ok help me out here, try to use part numbers when referencing this. like # X is hitting #X. you should be able to take the eccentric throughout the range of the tensioner. and with the 26 tooth front pully I don't have to run the tensioner more than say 50%.

hello here are some pics to show the problem? also whats all these blank screw holes for on the chassis?

Attachment 394260

Attachment 394261

Attachment 394263

thanks:)

the first part. It looks like your trying to get to much tension. Your talking about the tensioner (xray pn 333070) hitting the motor mount screw? (xray pn 338710). You don't have to have the side belt all that tight.


oh, Thats easy. They are holes for ballast. xray makes bolt on weights, I use about 30 grams on the left side to even out the weight on the car to get it balanced left to right..

hey thanks for your help!:) very happy with the car, building it was fun I could build a heap more.
cheers:)

well I ran today for the toys for tots race.. wow, had to scramble to get a setup for crystal park as the practice day I did was NOTHING like the grip on race day lol. anyhow, bad luck in qual means bump up to the final.. lol

ok, so I have these questions:
What is the shortest first gear you have run? (like 17/60?) and second: what brake setup are you running? This is prompted after doing a lot of clutch testing and found that I couldn't get enough rip to spin the tires with a more than capable engine. 7.11 fdr first is to tall it seems, tried 7.24 and it only got better :) next time We will take a big swing and run 7.56 and see how she fairs. May just be the extra zip we need.. lol

I might go back to the stock pad after todays race at CP. grip was medium- high (two day event at permanent track).

half way through the main the brake of corse starts to fade. 78% epa, with stock disc and mugen teflon pad. What are you guys running? will go back to stock pads with 20% epa

Do you use silicone tube to soften initial braking like most people do ?

And you are sure it isn't because your pitman spoiled to much fuel, during pitstops?.. :sneaky:

I've been running the Mugen mtx4 brake pad material in mine with no brake fade after 6 months.

of course I do.

yup, jon always does me a solid.

yeah, when I had an MTX4 I liked the brake feel better I was thinkin about getting their pad.. cheers

Perhaps that is the problem.

If the silicone tube is quite long, the soggy feeling ( brake fading ) might have risen. Perhaps you can shorten the silicone tube around 0.3 inches or 1 cm.

In my car, I don't use silicone tubes. I simply set the maximum braking without brake locking through EPA. So far so good, even with box standard equipments.

nah, i was using a teflon pad.. it was brake fade.. hence why I am going back to stock pad, no fade but not as good feel

Okay, let see how it will perform with stock pads.

Ciao.

I usually run the car on the stock pad, I changed to the other pad and it faded WAY more than it had before.. so I went back to the stock pad. Might pick up a mugen pad and throw it on to test (I always liked my mugen brakes).

Pat, YGPM