The setup was very close, but I have no 38 fronts so I ran 40s, and I had ordered a soft set of Xray springs, dark blue 22.5lbs if I remember right. They seem like they may be too soft. I put them on the rear, and guestimated a pair just a little stiffer from my assortment of Mugen, and Team Magic springs for the front.

I just need more track time with the car. It was great, and will only get better...

Since the Xray universals are so expensive, has anyone tried some mugen or kyosho universals in it? Or layed them side x side?

Some guys have used the mugen Uni's but they also had to switch over to the mugen upright, bearings, and pillow balls

My car is done :D

The gear mesh is awesome, and NT1 is a handsome looking car.

If I can drive NT1 very nicely..... I'm going to get another NT1 for spare parts ( considering the high price of xray spare parts ).

I know that some have done this, but after experimenting with a friends NT1, it just doesn't have the same cornering speeds as using the Xray ones. The Universals are well worth the $$. I had a rough qualifier at 301 with a hit into a car(Jerry Evans) that flipped right in front of me, causing a hit into a 4X4. I drove away from it and had my second best qualifier that round.

Quality is worth every cent when it keeps you in the race! Not only are the Xray ones lighter and stronger, they will give the car the free roll that it was designed to have. Don't sacrafice quality for price.

I'm looking forward to your feedback on how it compares to the G4S and the MTX-4. :nod:

What I can tell, yesterday I drove a NT1 from a friend (kit setup). At the first moment it was a very stable car and the only diffrent this and my old mtx4 was, that you just need more steering on power.

Several Indonesian group A drivers who bought NT1 ( switching from Kyosho RRR ) feel NT1 is understeering on throttle. They cannot push the car too hot without front sliding as they said.

Probably is one way problem. They were using gear diff ( as per kit ).

( I'm using 60K oil at front and rear gear diff. Lets see what happen with that.... )

My last race at FEMCA race I used 60K for front and 30K for rear diff.
Maybe u should get multi diff at front, will help a lot when u drive. Some peoples said its easier to drive.
Correct me if I'm wrong....

UPDATE!

Team Xray NT1 screw kits are now in stock!

http://www.tony1034.com/XRAY_NT1.jpg

Team Xray NT1 245-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers, lock washers and set screws.


Thanks and best regards,

I've found the car to have more forward grip with the multi-diff.... It is a good option for tracks with high traction.


I've found that when running the diffs, the rear with 60,000 and front with 80,000 (stock setup) works very well and make the car easy to drive. When I dropped the rear to a thinner fluid, I experianced high tire wear in the rear, and the car became sluggish (I think from tire spin)

This is what I found too and in fact you can see it in the video, as the car exits on throttle from the inner sweeper.

I went back to the track and easily fixed the handling problem, now in good shape! :nod:

Can someone enlighten me on the gearing of the NT1? If I wanted to change to a larger spur gear, smaller pinion gear, etc, do I have to change any of the other gears?

If I just changed the first gear spur how would second gear line up? I can see the spur gears are different sizes. Are the pinion gear different sizes too? How does that work?

Also, after a bit of reading, it's my understanding I don't want too much split between the first and second gear. No more than a five tooth difference? What happens if there is too much difference?

You can change any pinion or spur independently of the other gears.

As far as your gearing split goes your motor's power band is usually the determining factor on how much you can get away with. With a torqy motor with a wide power band a 6 or 7T split will be a non issue.

Should your split be too much for your motor you will likely see higher temps, sluggish 2nd gear, and a possible hesitation when shifting. You are also more likely to experience these type of problems on larger tires when rollout is higher.

Mark

Thanks, Mark. Maybe I'm just over complicating things.

How does that work though? If the gears are different sizes does it ever make meshing first and second gears difficult?