Yes... The OS 1040 L52 pipe... I have noticed when using this pipe, better performance from the OS engine and it did run cooler, but this could be my location :D I live a place that the devil himself comes to vacation... (remember most go to a place that is warmer then they are current at... :D ) Jackson, Mississippi... nothing like 98 Degrees and 100% humidity... :cry:

Yes, on power is the main place you see it, also it does start to show up at mid point. Take a look at the RRR and RRR EVO threads... Some good information here about the topic. One thing you can do is drop the rear diff oil, by 20,000... So if you are running 30,000 now, the drop to 20,000 this will help....

Serpent 720 37.0mm
Mugen MTX4 36.6mm
RRR 34.8mm
XRay NT1 31.5mm
TM G4S 30.5mm !!!

I was really surprised at these numbers, especially the 720's. Perhaps a higher deck is better under certain circumstances. :confused:

New NT1 Option parts:
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...ts%20for%20NT1

I know at least one guy that is going to be buying the harder bumper. :sneaky: ;)

The fact that your post referencing your build review was "expunged" from the TX forum is not too surprising. :sneaky:

Your posts are 100% safe here Slow!. Just keep it coming! Looking forward to the next installment. :nod:

For those of you that balanced your car how much weight did you have to add? I just did a static balance on mine and it took 45g on the pipe side.

I haven't checked the car with a full tank yet so I am not sure what the difference from dry to full will be but 45g seems like a lot.

For electronics I am using KO 2143 & Futaba 3305 servos w/ futaba FASST receiver and amb PT. Engine is a Mega MF masmo with aSkyline VR12+ pipe set.

For comparison my G4S took 14g with the same electronics, motor & pipe.

Mark

Mark ~ Where did you add the weight and what did you use? Have you got a photo?

Thanks! :)

As far as electrics go - a higher topdeck allows less flex which is desirable on high bite circuts... where the serpent excells if i am not mistaken

OK folks, the final part of the build review is now online over at 3hobby.net, go now for the conclusions. :D

Oh, if its sunny this weekend, its off to a test run and perhaps a video too.

Thanks Slow. Another great build guide. Good to hear that the cars goes together with very little effort, but I think we all expected that being that this is an XRAY.

Now comes the real fun part - getting to drive it. I'm really looking forward to your impressions of the car, especially as it compares to the other cars you own. Enjoy! :)

I used X-ray screw in weights from an old T1 kit. In the first photo you can see the weights on the chassis next to the battery & the centered bubble in the setup board's level. The 2nd photo shows where they are screwed into the chassis.

Mark

Thanks for the feedback RMD, pity its drizzling here today. I'm just taking extra time to do the bodyshell instead of rushing out to test, forecast does not look good for the rest of the day. :(

Looking forward to it though, especially like you said, how it compares to the other cars. :)

Thanks Harry ..

Are you sure? I'll add that to the article. :p

What's the purpose of the fifth body post in the center of the car in the third picture? I've only seen this on gas cars.