NikoRacing

Hello boys!

I bought just now a 2011 chassis with its brass weights ...I will clean the car next week and cant wait to change the old one for the new

..but I'm really curious to know how this carbon chassis works.. Is anybody using it? How is the car in camparison to the aluminium chassis?
How is the durability and how is it with crashes? Are the screws-holes precisely machined?

thx

for RCMARKET: can I mount the weights on the 2011 carbon chassis?

jds5150

I haven't tried the latest 2011 carbon chassis but the previous version worked pretty well. It has more flex and it helps a fair bit in cornering. It will survive light to medium crashes. I've never broken mine yet but if you hit the boards real hard, you will bend the toughest 7075 chassis. I would recommend carbon upgrade if you are after more traction especially in cooler climates.

I presume you can mount the brass weight on the 2011 carbon chassis or there isn't any point releasing a new version.

HoboShop

iTrader: (3)

What life receiver battery will fit in the nt1!? I purchased a life battery from protec Rc and it will not fit. I want to reduce the weight of the car.

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

I use the life packs from IP. I think I ordered them from RCMushroom back in april and it took about 12 days to get shipped. I also had the same trouble with the PROTEC battery. The casing on that battery is way too big.

HoboShop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks alot for the info I will look in to it.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

The Orion Life 1300 pack will fit... just barely, but it does fit.

HoboShop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Scott!! Where can I get it from? And how much?

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=ORI12255

I was wrong, its an 1100. This is what I have run in my RRR and now my NT1 for a while. A few of my friends run this battery as well.

younghovaa

Is it small enough that the steering servo horn doesn't hit it when it goes back?

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

This is the only battery that I have ever run in my NT1. Like I said, its a tight fit but this is what is always in my car.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

If your servo horn hits the battery, no matter how big it is, its probably not trimmed correctly (because the center pulley mount won't allow certain sizes).

The horn is not supposed to be 90 degrees, but a few degrees forward. Always check that the EPA are set correctly or you'll blow a servo for no good reason.

piper48

I bought a used NT1 not to long ago and just ran it the way it was setup by previous owner. After 4 club races I noticed that the tire wear front to back was uneven due to aggressive camber setting (-4 deg rear and -3 deg front). So I set it up with the same camber settings from electric tc (-2 deg all around) and now the outsides are wearing out much faster. I was wondering if -3 to -4 deg camber is a normal setting for these cars? Any camber suggestions would be much appreciated.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Camber values should be between 3 to 4 in the rear... and usually 1.5 in the front. This will all depend on the layout of your track, and your suspension settings.

The softer the suspension, the less camber you'll need. The front camber I usually use it to achieve more or less steering quickly (before a qual or main). So that's why I start out at 1.5 so I have room to adjust.

The rear camber should be adjusted until the tire starts to wear slightly conical to the inside.

etgdpu

Hi,
Could you please let me know how long is the hard centax spring from xray?
Thanks

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

1-2 in the front or 3.5-5 in the rear on the car is not unheard of. check the setup sheets on www.xray.com.