I would trust your setup wheels over your foam wheels...

They may be the same sizes... but the 0.3+/- is where the difference lies. Specially if you trued them with an angle.

Remember also that the width of the foam wheel makes it difficult to notice when the tire actually lifted from the ground. The setup wheels is more precise.

Want to know what is the different of the NT1 2011 then the previous version? I can't tell from their web? The chassis looks the same.

The chassis is actually different. It has spaces for brass or carbon stiffeners front and rear.

thanks Can the 2011 chassis works in 2010?

Yes

Thanks Riketsu, you suggest to use tweak station as well? Or use traditional method like lift up a car by hand?

You can also check by using the tweak station... But I believe that lifting it with the setup wheels is more accurate, just my opinion.

After tweaking it with the setup wheels, sometimes i double check it against the tweak station and its dead on.

Riketsu, one more, can i balance my chassis in NT1? I mean should i check the balance and does it need to put some balancing weights on that?

Yes you can.

I am currently using a two low profiles servos, a low-profile heat sink, the 30gram C below the C, the heavy motor mount, micro receiver, new PT and the receiver box and the car came pretty much balanced.

In stock form, you probably need to add 15-20 gram in the pipe side (where the 3 holes are) because of the weight of the box. If you remove the box and use the EC mount, the car will pretty much balanced...

In order to balance it perfectly, I suggest using two identical scales and to substitute the shocks with linkages of equal length (as DS has recommended). It is by far the best way to balance the car and get a very accurate reading which does not change with the shock movement.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...etsu/photo.jpg

The front of the car is mounted in a Hudy Balancing Pin on top of a 3rd scale.

These scales are very cheap in eBay and I got em at around $6 a piece.

thanks for that, tomorrow ill borrow 2 scales for now. Just thinking that mayby would be better to just block the pistons and leave a car with standard shocks for balancing....?

You can probably do that with the shocks... The point is that the shock does not change its length and that both lengths of each side are identical.

thanks a million for your help Riketsu!

If your using the kitchen scale method its really easy to balance the car. Get 4 of the ebay scales. Place the car on the scale pads with the setup adapters bolted on. Then adjust the diagonal weights till the sum of the LF AND RR is = to RF and LR. That point you have 0 tweak (or wedge), and then simply add weight where you need it to get to min and or balanced weight. Recheck ride height and chassis level (left to right) then your all set.

+1

I'm just finishing my new NT1WC and have a question; how is gear mesh adjusted? Just with gear sizes? There is a little wiggle room in the motor mount and engine mount screws but it doesn't seem like enough to make gear changes without changing both pinion and spur.