Chris, not sure on that. Will check and see.

Thanks Drew

any thing you guys sugest reguarding building the wc fellers what servo radio combo do you guys recomend

ive been out of racing for a few years and making a come back but a lot has changed lol

Hi guys when do you consider the red clutch not usable anymore. Do you measure the thickness by any chance?

The red shoe does not wear that much. I still have the red pad that won the worlds on the engine that we ran at the winternats.

I just look at the pins from the flywheel to see how much they are sticking threw.

Hope that helps

Thanks Drew

Thanks Drew pretty impressive.

Hi Drew
Have you guys tried the 4 mm chassy and if so how different does the car react.

Cheers
Alex. K

We ran the chassis once. It was at the GLC in Toledo Ohio when the track was brand new. The track was super smooth and was very high bite. That race the 4mm chassis was better seemed to make the car more stable.

I think in some track conditions the chassis can give you more steering and make the car more stable. But that is usually in very high bite.

Thanks Drew

a few noob thoughts :)
 

I started reading this thread two weeks ago. Infinite source of information that can overwhelm anyone, let alone a "beginner" like myself :blush:

I was time trialing and practicing setups on-track 1/10 for a total of 2 years, around 2001. The car I got back then was a very nice (for a nitro beginner) Thunder Tiger TS4n-Pro kit, with a TT .12 EVO engine (with pull-starter).
The car is in very good condition and I just finished the rebuild. Engine still sounds excellent.

I want to be back on track, not for racing but for the joy of the setup and maintenance of an RC touring car. I really like tweaking things all the time, looking for better handling and understanding physics.

When I was rebuilding my current car I slowly started to think about getting a new nicer kit. Serpent and Xray were the first names that came to my mind. After some research I think that the fine quality of Xray wins, even when I cant yest comment on local Xray support.

My main concern is that I never drive a car. I have three different motorbikes, enjoying the 2 wheel freedom. But off course this means very limited carrying capacity. But all new nice kits need a starter box, so even more carrying space is needed.

Is it OK/acceptable to build an NT1 (or even NT1R) with a pull-start engine? Is it even possible?

I know that if i buy a nice 1/10 Hauler bag I could probably hide the starter-box in there, but what I used in the past was just a 55lt mountainiring backpack (stop laughing guys :smile:). I dont even now if I can strap a Hauler Bag on the back saddle of a motorbike as I dont know how rigid their frames are.

OK OK, I know I am not so clear, as everything is a mess in my mind!
What I basically need is some thoughts or ideas, considering the vast experience you all seem to have.

Regards from Athens, Greece ;)

Hi skritikos, none of the racing-oriented kits allow a pull-start engine... Or atleast to my knowledge...

But if you are worried about space, this is for you:
http://www.ofna.com/images/starters/st-sb-10260-big.jpg
This starterbox is almost half the size of the 1/10th car.


The NT1R is a great car, and even greater for its price and what it brings. I believe its the perfect car for a beginner which can be upgraded little by little once you start gaining more experience.

Or you can also just go ahead and find a 2010 kit or 2011 kit which is by far the best initial investment a beginner person can make.

Any word on when the chassis might be in stock?

Great starter box!!! I have two of them (one for my MTX4, one for my NT1R). Like riketsu said, great box if weight and space savings is the key. The NT1R is a great car like he said as well. With the composite materials used, it makes the heavy enough to make legal weight without having to add any additional weights. And, if you want to upgrade it to a full-blown WC or 2010/2011 kit, you can do it at your leisure (or wallet).

Thanks for the tips guys! I decided that as a first step I should pay some visits to the local tracks to stabilize my hands and get used to RC nitro again.
The Rock Crawling I've been doing needs quite different skills I guess :D
For this step I think my current kit is sufficient, reliable and quite fast.

My current problem is the use of foam tyres without having a tyre truer (and no easy access through a friend). Do you think that I can stick to some fresh 26mm rubber for this first phase? Or is it acceptable performance wise to get some foams 26/30mm and use them as they are without truing?

Next step will be to get a hauler bag and a new full setup system as I have sold mine many years ago. Any shops with nice Hudy prices in Europe?

Third and last step is to get a new car (+starter box, etc). When I am 100% sure that I will stay on tracks for the next few years at least.

They should be on the next shipment, which should be showing up soon.

Thanks Drew

the 2011 spec appeared online today for $475. Can you find an even lower price in USA or it this a nice bargain?

hi, just wanted to know how you guys check tweak of your car? Just got setup wheels and when i check tweak on that wheels car is not tweaked, but when i put foam wheels car is tweaked... My all foam wheels are same sizes 59/60.