i give up. went though 100ml of oil trying to adjust rebound... shock just feels like shit.

im leaving it at 100%.

i dont know about others but i find that setting rebound that way with xray shocks always lets air leak in through the bottom of the cap once its removed.. i usually put 3-4mm of caster clips around the shock shaft and then push it all the way in after you have filled the shock with oil,then put the bladder on letting any excess oil seep out.. i then only have to use maybe one or two pumps from the bottom of the shock to relieve the right amount of pressure.. another thing to make sure is that you are pumping the shock shaft SLOWLY.. too fast definitely lets airstraight into the shock.

anyone???

Maybe this
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...055ce3fb1dd1c7

Ok, so the way I have found bleeding the shocks with no air in them is close to the way most ppl do it. So I start with filling the shock and have 100% rebound or about there. Then invert the shock and with the shock shaft extended I remove the bottom cap and compress the shock shaft slowly(to allow the excess oil to bleed out). Then secure the bottom cap, and extend the shock shaft. And repeat till I have the desired rebound. I only do compression, I feel if you do rebound you can get air sucked in. But either way you do it, its important that the shock is inverted. When I have the desired rebound, I cycle the shock close to my ear and listen for squishy air sounds. It should feel nice and consistent through the range. If not you somehow got air in the shock. So start the process over with fill / bleed. Make sure you cycle the shock shaft up and down before putting the cap on and make sure there isn't any air.

Cheers

I wouldn't worry to much about that. The 2010 top deck is a bit narrower on the steering servo mounting area, and the pipe side is a bit narrower. Maybe one of the guys that has the updated bits can give you measurements. I did a little dremel work to my top deck but just to 09.5 spec. I made another top deck but I think things like the aluminum deck supports and one piece motor mount are going to make a bigger difference since most people I know are trying to get more steering.

ok, so it sounds like something is really screwed up. take it all apart, and give me a measurement of the clutch shoe from where the shoe touches the clutch bell (used friction surface) to the inside edge. take apart your clutch and take pictures of all the parts you have there. Most clutch build problems lead to stalling (fried ball bearings, fried thrust bearing, or improperly installed thrust.) So this one is kinda strange. Since we are here. lets take the flywheel nut off, blue loc tite it back on and make sure its tight. Check which flywheel cone your using and tell me that too. The best ones I have used aren't the nova rossi cones, I use the xray one because it holds tighter and the flywheel spins more true. I am wondering if your missing something like the thrust spacer (aluminum spacer just smaller than the flywheel.)or something. Or your clutch disc is destroyed. With those preload settings the clutch should engage at a pretty low rpm. the clutch should be soft, but I think that might be over the top.

Dont forget, he is in process of engine break in ( what i mean : the engine's is not at optimal power yet, so the clucth seems to engage very late ).

I know, but even when I am breaking in engines I don't to go to minimum gap and 0mm preload to get the clutch to engage. Break in with orion spring/ yellow shoe/ stock flyweights/ light flywheel is about .4gap, 0.4mm preload.... even with stock spring, white clutch shoe its still about .5-.6 preload.

For break in especially with a crf spring I'd just go down flush on the adj nut. you want to put as much of a load as you can on the motor, so a heavy clutch would be favorable. Same with the stock spring, put very little tension on it. Now maybe the engine tune is too rich which, could explain the clutch taking forever to engage...

Don't build it like Xray describes it in the manual, then the shocks will be very difficult to build properly.

First if you have the alu-shocks make sure you ream the plastic shims which go in the lower part of the shocks, most of them fit too tightly around the shockshaft which makes building a perfect shock nearly impossible.

Second check your shock bladders, I replace mine every month to keep the shock perfect every time. When they are completely swollen and don't fit easily in the shock body they need to be replaced.

When you want to build a shock with a low amount of rebound leave out the foam piece which goes in the shock cap.

Now the way to build your shocks:

Basically I use the same method as Jilles Groskamp does in the redrc video and the method described by team-rtr below.

First pull the shock shaft all the way out and fill the shock with oil until the top. After that put caster clips or a cut o-ring around the shaft, I use 3mm for the rears and 4mm for the fronts.
After that let the membrane sink into the shock body under it's own weight.
While letting the membrane sink in push in the shock shaft until the clips/O-ring. When the membrane sit's flush in the shock body you can screw on the top cap.
Check the shock and if you've done it properly you will end up with a perfectly matched set of shocks and only have to build them once.;)
With this method you don't use the bottom cap to set rebound which is the part which causes all the trouble with letting air in or inconsistent shocks.

I have the measurements somewhere, I will post them later this day.

The discussion of shock rebound sent me to the Xray site to see what people are using for rebound.

Looked at the most recent 25 featured setup sheets that had indicated the rebound.

Of the 25, 23 were at 50% or less. There were 14 at 25% or less. There were 3 that used 0% rebound. The two above 50% were at 75% and 80%.

I usually run around 25%. I bleed the oil out the bottom with the cap off. Following Paul L's suggestion I drilled a very small hole in the top cap to relieve air pressure. The drill bit was the smallest one in my Dremmel set at 0.75mm. Sure makes things easy.

What happened to YOU at the last race? lol. Check the results page ;)

I looked. Congrats!

Had a family outing that cause me to miss the race. You're lucky I didn't show up. You probably would have been 2nd. :lol: