Hey guys i was wondering if one was to get the Nt-1 08 kit can you upgrade it to the 09 kit or can you buy the upgrade seperatly or do you have to buy the 09 kit if that's what you really want. Any help would be great;)

I believe Nexus racing sells a conversion kit

You can buy the conversion kit separately. However, in my 09 kit it came with a different top deck than my 08 kit has. The conversion kit dose not say the top deck is included in it from the list of parts included I've read. BTW, they're calling it a radio tray, or that's what I'm guessing.

FROM XRAY:

New 2009 NT1 Specs:
• included optional XRAY aluminum racing shock bodies
• included optional HUDY Spring Steel™ front & rear CVD driveshafts
• new wider 2-speed 2nd gear for increased durability & lifespan
• new reinforced & improved suspension parts
• new wider central drive belt for increased durability & lifespan
• new fuel tank pressure cap with 1-pc profiled seal for perfect fitment
• new steering servo mount for mid size servos
• new top deck mounts for mid size servos
• new belt tensioner holder for improved belt tension adjustment
• new updated radio plate
• new harder 2-speed springs

You can also buy just the upgrade parts you want individually.

NeXus Racing is where I bought my 08 & 09 kits, and they DO have the 09 conversion kit .... hope that helps

clutch setup and distances
 

Hello all,
I am almost finished with the building of my new NT1 spec 2009.
I have a question regarding the clutch setup.
I have a picco evo3 engine and I have tried with the engine cone, as well as with the Xray cone for picco engines, to set up my clutch. In both the cases a spacer behind the flywheel is required, in order to get the 9.2mm distance. After I have set correctly the 9.2mm distance, I try to set a clutch gap of 0.7mm, which I think is the default value. The only way to get such a gap is only if I add a tiny shim 3x5 0.2mm between the crankshaft and the clutch bell bushing (338556). Of course I have no spacer between the clutch bell bushing and the thrust bearing. Then I add about 1.2mm behind the rear bearing (big), in order to get an end play of 0.1mm.
Is it normal to get a maximum gap of 0.5mm (without adding the 3x5 shim) or I am doing something wrong?
Would you add the 3x5 shim to increase the gap or you would make it in another way?
Thanks in advance
Dimitris

I used a rear 6mm Axle Shim off my CRC GenX car behind the cone

-=light=-

OK, I suppose you did that to achieve the 9.2mm distance. But then, even if you don't put any shim in front of the thrust, the maximum gap you can have is 0.5mm. Correct? How can I make it 0.7mm? Is adding the 3x5 shim at the end of the crankshaft the correct way or I am missing something here?
Thanks

without shims between the thrust bearing(930150) and the "clutch bell bushing"(338556) you should be able to get a gap of 0.7mm. Shims in this location are not required. If you can't reach .7 gap, when subtract the difference between the goal gap and current gap. say 0.7mm(goal max) - 0.5mm(current max) = 0.2mm, so reduce the shim on the crank between the front bearing and the flywheel collet by 0.2mm (I would assume you had 0.5mm or more?)

its a 7mm shim.. unless your running picco

I understand your point and I agree with your calculations. The only problem is that by doing so, I brake the 9.2mm rule. In that case it would be 9.4mm, which I do not know if it is right to have.
Thanks

its not a rule, and that has since been revised fyi. on the 08 and newer cars there is a little insert they throw in the manual to correct that. My max gap on most of my engines is .6 just because I run the orion spring 100% of the time and i run a .4-.5 gap. But if you run the softer springs you need a bigger gap, the only part that gets mad when running a bigger gap is the thrust bearing and mainly the fly weights. the engine cares not where the nut is placed as long as its tight.

Doesn't matter a lot, i never use the shims behind the cone on my clutches, since i've had one if the shims destroying a front engine bearing.
The only reason for shimming behind the cone is so you can compare spring pre tension because everybody get's the same measurement. And you have the best alignment for the gears, but without any shim's it just as good, since it's only about .5 mm you use.

OK, I see. Thanks.

I don't think I got this insert in the car I built a few days ago. Would you mind quoting what the insert says? My manual says 9.2mm.

honestly I don't remember what it says for sure. i think its like 9.5-9.3? its not a big deal. on max engines your lookin at between 0.3 and 0.5mm shims. try 0.3mm collet shim with the xray 7mm collet and you should be close. its mainly a function of being able to run a 0.7mm clutch gap. If you have a max gap of say 0.5 you need to reduce the shim between the front bearing and collet. just make sure your using the proper shim, it shouldn't rub the front of the bearing (stationary seal).

cheers

I also have a Picco Red Dot