Ok, so if you want punchy accel, the white shoe is not it. I personally couldn't get the stock spring and clutch to work "punchy", I now use the yellow clutch shoe with orions square spring... thats punchy.. (.4gap with .4-.6 mm preload)

well it sounds like your car is understeering more than theirs, what springs are you running? I couldn't get the car to work on the silver springs (not the front anyhow), I think we need more detail to help. setup, track, grip.. probably using softer springs would be good..


is what? the lack of punch? probably engine tune, clutch or something like that unless your just trying to be tooo smooth. In that case stop trying to be like me :batman:

rx7ttlm, cool.

You mean use 0.4 vs 0.7m gap in the instruction manual? How is the preload measured? I actually had the yellow shoe and hard spring before, but it felt like I either have power, or no power make my driving not smooth like the fast guys.

As for suspension, I run the pink springs front and rear with 60 oil front and 40 oil back. I don't have a problem understeering but I cannot get the car to "cruise around" the corners like the fastest guys who seem to brake going in and accelerate the same time with no lagging in timing or that the car stops abruptly (vs mine which reacts slightly differently each time I, from not stopping fast enough to stopping to a standstill....)

I use a .4 gap with .4 preload measured the same way it says in the manual, the main difference is that I use the orion hard spring. It seems to work well for me, some don't like it. But I do. Ok, so preload is measured from the tip of the flywheel nut(?) xray pn 338550, to the top of the clutch spring nut #338580. if you don't already have a set for this car and cars like it its REALLY handy to have a set of digital calipers to measure with.

make sure you dont have glazed pads, and make sure you have enough fuel tubing on your brake arm. I personally switched brake pads because I couldn't modulate the brakes with the stock pads. I use teflon pads made by M***n S***i. they take a bit of cutting and work with a #11 exacto. they aren't as consistent but my personal feeling is they aren't an on off switch..

and the fast guys usually get their car newtral- loose.. you need to figure out what your balance is like I said before

hope this helps

feel free to pm for more details..

check if those guys are running a front spool or locked diff.

That also helps in braking... quickly.

g

IMO braking feel is crap with the stock brake pads. 7% epa brake with diff and stock pad, and 20% with spool.. I usually get about 80% with the pads I run and they are a LOT more predictable.. yes they fade.. but its a pretty predictable difference and i can always compensate with my finger.

Serpent teflon pads with optional serpent disk. No fading at all, amazing braking. Only the wear on the pads and disc is really high.

receiver connection
 

I'm finishing up my nt1 and dont like using a switch. How are you guys making the connection? I would really love to keep everything in the box but looks like it might be a pain when trying to connect it and shove it back into the box. Not to mention losing the rubber top on the box. Lets see and hear those great ideas :nod:

I am running an HIGH QUALITY servo extension from the RX (female end), and male end is shoe goo'd to the top of the steering servo. Allows you to use the rx box, and you can still unplug and change batt or charge without much hassle. wasn't digging the stock box either. Main car just has the graphite plate now. saves a buncha weight anyhow(takes it from the heavy side of the car which is good)

thats why I like my Mu&@n teflon pad and stock disc, the serpent disc just works like a cheese grater on the teflon pad. Might try serpent disc with another pad I have been eying.

HI Guys just picked up an NT1 and wondered what diff oils and shock springs I should try on a tight track with medium to low grip? are most people running the 2.2 rear bar?:)
thanks

On a track as you describe, I would start out with 30,000 rear XRAY diff oil and 80,000 front diff. If the car is still loose with the rear sliding around leaving the corners, drop it down. 450 xray shock oil and if the track is very small, run the dark blue springs, but if it is tight and a bit bigger, run the stock ones. make sure you run the 25 tooth side pully, but if the car does not rotate well in the corner, try the 26, it will put the car in a 1:1 drive ratio and will help.

That's a good idea. I was looking at the box and came up with a good one. Where the switch would go i was gonna stick the extension there sticking out which would let me plug into. I like this idea also but the more i thought about it it made me worry. If i pushed down to hard and it came loose then i would have to take the box out and open it which could make me late for the a-main.
:lol::lol:

Ok. does this require any modifications, ie can I just install it or will there be cutting involved?

How bad is the wear on the disc? I would think the wearing will be on the pads mostly ...

Thanks.

its a bit of trimming with a #11 exacto blade for the teflon pad.. if you can build the car right to begin with.. you can easily make this pad combo.. just prep the backing plate and use a quality "shoe goo"