Just check the price on that, it's actually $15. But thanks for the information:nod:

Xceed Li-Po fit NT1 ?

Thankyou !

Yes, it fits perfectly with some tape, I got two because they are hard to find.

hi,can i use the light bell in a rrr car?the bearings are the same?
the pinion's diameter is the same?
thanks!

Need Help
 

Hi,
i went out with my nt1 for the first time in a while and i had two problems that seem to never go away. i cant get the clutch to work properly. and when i hit the throtte coming out of a turn, the car turns right sharply. does anyone have any suggestions. is their an after market clutch or different clutch people are using with this car?

This is set up problem, not clutch problem.

You should copy the factory setup manual and use fresh tires.

Make sure all suspension arms can move freely ie. can drop under their own weight.

Joe,

Firstly check your drivetrain to make sure you do not have any binding. A common cause is a damaged bearing in either the hub or the diff holder. After you've inspected the drivetrain take the engine out and push the car across a flat surface with the radio on (for centering) and check the car free wheels in a straight line. If you are using a one way, check the one way bearings are still working properly and not slipping. If using a diff, try a rebuild and check the internal gears are rotating freely.

Next thing to check is tweak. Take the wheels off, lay the chassis on a flat surface and see if it rocks from side to side, corner to corner or front to rear. If it does, loosen the top deck, push it down flat and retighten in the "x" sequence. Remove the shocks and check all four for the same length with a set of calipers. Also measure the amount of spring compression by measuring between the top of the spring adjuster and the shock cap. Lengths should always be the same, and spring compression should be the same left to right. If using the adjustable pistons make sure the same number of holes is used left to right.

With the shocks still off, disconnect the front and rear sway bars and check the downstop settings on all corners to make sure they are the same. Again, they need to be equal left to right. Reattach the sway bars and lift one side of the suspension - check the amount the other side rises when the swaybars are connected. Now repeat for the other side - they amount the arms raise should be the same. If not, you need to adjust the swaybar cams (front) or the length of the swaybar tie rods (rear).

Put the shocks and wheels back on, the engine in and set the ride height, making sure you try to keep the amount of spring compression the same left to right. Place the car on a flat surface and use a flat screwdriver to lever the front off the table/set up board, and make sure the wheels both lift off the ground at the same time. Repeat for the back.

If everything above is almost identical, you should have a tweak free car. As for the clutch setting, the only thing you may want to add is the optional yellow shoe. Set it up exaclty as per the manual, making sure you use a set of calipers to get the gaps right. Make sure the thrust race is in good condition, as the early kits had a dodgy one that is a bit fragile. There is no need to use an after market or other manufacturers springs. The stock ones work fine for the majority of tracks and driving styles.

Good luck!

Thanks guys for your advice. I do have a very good mechanic helping me with my car but the both of us can not figure out this right jerk on power. Danny Horta’s dad has been helping me--- he built the car for me. A lot of you may not know who he is, but Abraham has been a mechanic for probably 15 years. He feels it has to be an electrical problem but I don’t think so. I am going to try the things you have mentioned. I also want to look at my hinge pins, maybe they are bent.

Now that I think of if, this problem was not occurring at the beginning of the day. It developed. Maybe the pivot ball nuts came loose. I heard that is a problem with this car. Have they updated these?

Anyhow, thanks for all your help and I will keep you posted.
Joe

Will changing to Mugen 2-speed shoes and inter balls & springs help with shift problem ? HELP

Thanks reply !
our co. was import $20/pack only !
NT1 some parts more Discount now !

Your problem lies in the suspension.
Something is unequal from left te right.
Check these things:

Front downstops, with and without ARB
Shock bound and rebound and lenght all around
Freely moving suspension.
Toe's
Shock tweaking (wheel load balancing)

And problably if you accelerate a bit slower the car tracks a lot better because then you have a smaller movement in your suspension.

No it wouldn't but what exact shifting problem are u having? Even with the the stock 2 speed springs i never had the issues that I was hearing about from other NT1 users. It depends on how U build it, but switching to the hard 2 speed springs should help if it's a consistency issue.;)

thanks that's what I did:tire::tire:

Thanks for the advice. You are correct. When I hit the throttle hard is when the right jerk took place. When I went on the throtlle jently, I did not experience this. But this is a tad strange since I have races the kyosho and mugen and never had this problem before. Does the nt1 tend to have a touchy suspension? I talked to another guy who just started running the nt1 and he mentioned he was having suspension problems.

No touchy suspension with NT1, they are good shock absorber, except the plastic shock sometimes is leaking.