To tell you the true....yes, it is THAT old...when I first picked up my Serpent Impulse, 1st thing the old timer told me is....get the Centax 1 clutch. Then the 2nd thing they told me....get another brown shoe, cut them into 3 pieces and replace the original white weigh with the circle retaining springs....replace the 3 cutted shoe as a flyweigh and no need any springs within.

After all the years, the same design still living...just getting better. But the brain (design/tips) behind that was long time ago....

They looked like the same as the original Serpent shocks, but not 100% sure they are the same within. I have my T2 for a very short period of time and I don't have the chances to find out they are compatable or not. But IF they are indeed the same, ppl who has the FK04, FK05 and T2 has already been using the Serpent alum shock bodies....but I have not seen anyone did that. Except, they use the same original shocks (plastic) or simply use the TRF one.

xray nt1
 

hey all:the new xray nt1 looks nice just wat to know a few things.first does this meen xray is no longer partners with team serpent or have they not been partners for quite a while now?also which members of the xray electric touring car staff might start racing the new nt1 nitro sedan when it is released?finally will all the hobby shops that offer the xray electric touring cars going to be offering the new nitro nt1 sedan or is this class not popular enough for all of them to do that? thanks :spidey:

Xray used to sell alu. shock bodies as an option, see pic.
I got used to the composite ones and have no problem with them in electric TC, they're light and smooth. If they break during some major crash, it's usually the body only, not the shaft and composite bodies are cheaper to replace than the shaft itself... We'll see how they work with nt1.

Sorry Boss... :lol: :lol: :lol: Just was throwing some names out there. :nod: :nod:

Bobby is right....more posts in 2 days than ever!!! LOL!!!

No need to apologize.... :tire: :tire:

Excuse my French, but that's gotta be a fu..ing joke.

This is not a 95% copy of te MTX4, it's more like 101%.

My neck heir is standing up when I see Hudy and his drivers posing like MIB's on the new catalogue and all he can come up with is a blunt Mugen copy.

Next thing is, that he will have two new versions of the car, before your dealer has all the parts for the first one in stock (no joke, happened to me with his electric cars)

I hope not everybody is going to jump the bandwagon, at least not the Mugen drivers. At least we got aluminum shocks :rolleyes:

Mike, do you have a cross reference sheet for interchangeable parts yet? :sneaky:

Correct me if I am wrong but what is highlighted in red is the actual flyweights not the clutch shoe

"Mike, do you have a cross reference sheet for interchangeable parts yet? "
Somebody wants to upgrade his car....J/K :smile:

Are you guys starting all of this sh*t going to show up to race. Or are you just going to stur the pot?

See you guys in Ft. Myers or not?

Mark

You are correct. :nod:

I was going to change the photo, but that would just confuse things relative to the responses. Also, it appears that some people have used clutch shoes that have been cut or come that way.

Questions for the Team XRAY guys based on the specs posted at the Team XRAY site:

For ultra-competitive racers with an eye on weight savings, XRAY will offer an optional graphite receiver brace in place of the standard radio box.

1. Are you guys currently running the standard radio box or the graphite receiver brace?

Quick-set 2-piece aluminum engine mount system with fixed engine position for super-easy engine installation and gear mesh adjustment.

2. I noticed the countersunk screws on the bottom of the chassis. Is the position of the bottom half of the two-piece mount fixed or can it be adjusted? If I need to position the engine a litte more foward or backward to properly align the pinion gears with the spur gears do I adjust the top piece? How much forward/backward engine movement does the top half of the engine mount allow for?

After the initial gear mesh is set, the engine position is 100% held in place and the engine can be installed-reinstalled without any need for any further gear mesh adjustment.

3. How is this possible? The gears must wear down, increasing the gap between the spur and pinion gears. I always check my gear mesh after a run, in case the engine has moved as a result of a crash or collision and/or because of spur/pinon gear wear. Are you guys not doing this?

Thanks! :)

NT1 photos !
 

Time to make some popcorn, this could be fun.