no not true to any of the two ? I have a skyline pipe on my car right now and I have a picco engine on the car with the collet that came with the engine so in short you can use the one that is on the engine. Who's been lying to you:confused:

Quote:
Originally Posted by badKarma




so what about that special with the JL .12 Evo 3 and the Skyline pipe? and how much is the collet for the NT1?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze




Quote:
Originally Posted by badKarma




ok, i just bout an NT1 got a 3PKS with 2.4ghz, now i need an engine, been doing the research, im hooked on the JL .12, problem is, this is my first competition race project, what do i need along with the engine, glow plugs? does the 2606 tuned pipe come with everything needed or do i need more as far as gasket seals and anything else? i guess a question is, if i buy the JL .12 Evo 3 from yall, what all do i need to install into the car, and get it rolling? can you help me out? thanks



This are all you need:
1 x JL EVO 3
1 x PICCO 2607 pipe set
PICCO P6TC glow plugs get some spares too!
XRAY NT 1 collet for PICCO engine
I have all the above in stock.

Sam






The web special on a JL EVO 3 and a Skyline VR 12 Plus is also a good choice, the NT1 collet for PICCO engine is $7.00.

What Sam is saying is the picco pipe is a good match for the JL not that the skyline doesnt work. Both pipes work well with the engine I'musing a skyline with a mod. picco and it works fine. As for the collet you can use the one that is on the engine but if you want to buy the other one thats your choice, but the stock one works. When it comes down to pipes and engines you can find a pipe that work better on one engine and suck for another so what Sam is telling you is a pipe that works for that engine because it is trued and tested, again the skyline works too so if you purchased it in that combo you still have a good combo. If money's not a prob then get the picco pipe too and test them out on the same day to see what works better on the track you are on. Hope this clears things up a bit.

your misunderstanding the PMs...he originally told me that the Picco pipe works the best...but then i was interested in the combo, which i bought...he wasnt the one who said the Skyline didnt work...that was someone else...however, when i asked what i specifically needed to get the engine on the NT1 chassis, he told me that I needed THAT collet to get it to work...thats what im referring too...he didnt tell me that it was optional...

ISSUE RESOLVED: (Team Kamikaze said):
According to Xray, the NT 1 Flywheel is thinner than most flywheel, that is the reason why Xray have the NT 1 collet specifically made for PICCO engine, just to make sure it tightens correctly, and I don't understand who told you that the Skyline VR 12 pipe is not compatible with the NT 1, I don't see why will it not be compatible, I think who ever told you that will need to explain why he said it is not compatible.

Get some colder glow plugs to try during the summer months at 301. ;) Definitely P7TC and maybe even P7TH when the humidity is low in the fall.

Clutch Issue
 

Hi,
I ran my nt1 for the first time today. i had a problem with my clutch. it would engage, then slip, then engage again. has anyone had this problem? pleaese advise what i should do to fix.
thanks in advance,
joe

Another satisfied customer
 

Picked it up Friday. 2 guys and 6 hours later it was done. I've owned Kyosho, Serpent, and Mugen. This is my first Xray and the car is pure quality. The fit and finish are definitely way above the rest. The car almost doesn't need screws it fits together so well. Even the instructions are the highest quality. Not hard to see why 15 of 24 cars at our last race were NT1s.

Some complaints though. Getting the pivot ball holders into the uprights was a real challenge. It was very easy to mis-thread. And the shocks . . . I wish they had contracted out the new Serpent RCC shocks. The multihole sounds great in theory but is a pain in practice.

Options? Just a few. The XRay multidiff, 3Racing one-piece engine mount, aluminum wheel hexes and aluminum middle bearing block. I think I'll run it like that for while and see what I can get out of it. I hear the car needs few options. I'd swap the battery (i'm using 5 x 2/3 cells) but I want to keep weight in the centre of the car.

Rob

If everything is assembled correctly and you still get slip I would guess that you do not have enough tension on the clutch spring or your gap is too big. As in the manual, there should be 10-11mm from engine shaft tip to clutch nut. Remove the inner bearing and all shims then measure the gap. You are going for a gap of around 0.6mm

If this is your first experience with the Serpent style Centax clutch here are couple of mistakes I've made or seen others make:

1) The thrust bearing is assembled wrong (typically assembled backwards)
2) Too much grease on the thrust bearing
3) The clutch gap was incorrectly set because the inner bearing wasn't removed or clutch shims were not removed during measuring
4) A mistake was made confusing End Play with Clutch Gap. If your experience is with Mugen, this is an easy mistake to make
5) Grease contaminated the clutch bell.
6) The flyweights were put on backwards preventing them from 'flying'

Good luck. If you find the reason, post.

Rob

Damn that is a sweet!!

That is a common problem for that car. I have heard that most people use the kyosho spings in the 2 speed shoe. That will fix it.

actually rc America has the news 2 speed spring in stock, that and the clutch spring are to soft that comes with the kit. most guys are running the msr or orion clutch spring. thats about the only little issue on the car . the is super tuff, very little extra parts needed to run this car.

whats up D

Hey Dan how's everything?

good just waiting on my delivery of some extra power this coming week..:sneaky: