Serpent SRX8-GT
#91
Hi, i just finished building my kit and i have a few questions.
1. Is the diffuser generating any downforce as it does not have a "flat" bottom?
2. Do you have any pics of the Blitz GT3 body mounted? Its my first time mounting an on-road body, any guide is great. Dont want a crooked body.
Thank you in advance
1. Is the diffuser generating any downforce as it does not have a "flat" bottom?
2. Do you have any pics of the Blitz GT3 body mounted? Its my first time mounting an on-road body, any guide is great. Dont want a crooked body.
Thank you in advance
#92
Stock setup isn't too bad to be honest - I've just gone a little bit stiffer and heavier on the diffs over stock. Car feels really good but I'll report back if I find anything major in setup.
Clutch setup is no different to the previous car (4x yellow shoes with the X-Hard springs with stock steel end bell which has been polished inside with a dremel and polishing compound).
#93
Hi, i just finished building my kit and i have a few questions.
1. Is the diffuser generating any downforce as it does not have a "flat" bottom?
2. Do you have any pics of the Blitz GT3 body mounted? Its my first time mounting an on-road body, any guide is great. Dont want a crooked body.
Thank you in advance
1. Is the diffuser generating any downforce as it does not have a "flat" bottom?
2. Do you have any pics of the Blitz GT3 body mounted? Its my first time mounting an on-road body, any guide is great. Dont want a crooked body.
Thank you in advance
I'm about to mount up a new Blitz as well. I just line up the front wheel arches and use magnetic body post markers and do it that way. It's no different to mounting a touring car body really - I do it unpainted as its way easier.
#94
Tech Initiate
No not yet really. Theres a couple of setups from the same track in China but I've always found the setups from over there don't really work for me - its the same with the other cars setups from that track too. Go ahead and try them but they don't work for me.
Stock setup isn't too bad to be honest - I've just gone a little bit stiffer and heavier on the diffs over stock. Car feels really good but I'll report back if I find anything major in setup.
Clutch setup is no different to the previous car (4x yellow shoes with the X-Hard springs with stock steel end bell which has been polished inside with a dremel and polishing compound).
Stock setup isn't too bad to be honest - I've just gone a little bit stiffer and heavier on the diffs over stock. Car feels really good but I'll report back if I find anything major in setup.
Clutch setup is no different to the previous car (4x yellow shoes with the X-Hard springs with stock steel end bell which has been polished inside with a dremel and polishing compound).
Parking lot/tight/hairpin corners where acceleration out of the corners is key. it has a 140-150 back straight. but time is lost and gain in the infield.
i am running a Murnan modified OS GT engine with 20/25 pinion and 63/58 spur plus 2 yellow 2 carbon shoe with the steel vented bell and xhard clutch springs with GRP tyres.
my question:
1. In theory the 19/24 and 63/58 should give me better acceleration, right?
2. The OS GT is generally a good bottom end engine. That's why i am running the 20/25. if i try the 19/24 i fear that i would get wheel spin when accelerating. Without losing a lot of time do i go hard springs or 4 carbon to tone it down? What is the best method to tone down the car?
3.Generally, i am not one to grab the trigger when coming out the corners, do i go to the 19/24 and manage the rest with my finger?
i have created a gif to show u the track.
This is my track. I am the red car.
#95
hi guys just a quick question
how much oil are you guys putting in your diffs well what i want to know is how much to fill the diff
up to before you put in the top gear if you guys have pics that will be a good help also
thanks
how much oil are you guys putting in your diffs well what i want to know is how much to fill the diff
up to before you put in the top gear if you guys have pics that will be a good help also
thanks
#96
Hi Dan, i ran the new car and it was great in terms of handling(while setting up i used some settings from my 3.1). what i am now trying to get on top of is the transmission/clutch set up and what is more suitable to my track.
Parking lot/tight/hairpin corners where acceleration out of the corners is key. it has a 140-150 back straight. but time is lost and gain in the infield.
i am running a Murnan modified OS GT engine with 20/25 pinion and 63/58 spur plus 2 yellow 2 carbon shoe with the steel vented bell and xhard clutch springs with GRP tyres.
my question:
1. In theory the 19/24 and 63/58 should give me better acceleration, right?
2. The OS GT is generally a good bottom end engine. That's why i am running the 20/25. if i try the 19/24 i fear that i would get wheel spin when accelerating. Without losing a lot of time do i go hard springs or 4 carbon to tone it down? What is the best method to tone down the car?
3.Generally, i am not one to grab the trigger when coming out the corners, do i go to the 19/24 and manage the rest with my finger?
i have created a gif to show u the track.
This is my track. I am the red car.
Parking lot/tight/hairpin corners where acceleration out of the corners is key. it has a 140-150 back straight. but time is lost and gain in the infield.
i am running a Murnan modified OS GT engine with 20/25 pinion and 63/58 spur plus 2 yellow 2 carbon shoe with the steel vented bell and xhard clutch springs with GRP tyres.
my question:
1. In theory the 19/24 and 63/58 should give me better acceleration, right?
2. The OS GT is generally a good bottom end engine. That's why i am running the 20/25. if i try the 19/24 i fear that i would get wheel spin when accelerating. Without losing a lot of time do i go hard springs or 4 carbon to tone it down? What is the best method to tone down the car?
3.Generally, i am not one to grab the trigger when coming out the corners, do i go to the 19/24 and manage the rest with my finger?
i have created a gif to show u the track.
This is my track. I am the red car.
My clutch setup is fairly aggressive but isn't like an on/off switch. I always use 4x Yellow shoes with the X-Hard springs - you could run the hard 0.9 springs which will tone down the clutch a little bit. The black carbon shoes will also be less aggressive but you'll need to change them often to stop the clutch starting to lag on the bell (the springs elongate the mounting holes in the shoes and you loose spring tension).
The OS engine doesn't help you much because OS's are all bottom end in my experience. I had a Murnan novarossi once in my 1/10 sedan and he'd moved the power band all the way bottom and it made the car really hard to drive. I'm not sure if that's a trend for him but the OS is already very aggressive at the bottom end and hence why you are probably lighting up the tires even if you are steady on the throttle. For me at least you can't been the smoothness of a Novarossi power band!
I run 19/24 pretty much everywhere to be honest. If I've got a really long straight then I might goto 19/25 but that rare. I also alternate the plastics between 58/63 and 59/64 if I need to fine tune it a little bit more but honestly the stock gearing might be fine on that track.
#97
Then I'll add the top big gear into the oil and then wipe/scrape off the excess oil so that the oil is flat across the top. I'll dig out the middle hole as well then align the pin and put the case together. That way I know the diff is absolutely full. As a check to make sure I haven't introduced any pressure in the diff I'll remove the grub screw that you fitted in step 1 of building the diff (this isn't a bleeder screw per-se as it won't allow really thick oil out so don't rely on it and overfill the diff initially) and check if any oil is pushed out.
#98
Tech Initiate
Hi there.
My clutch setup is fairly aggressive but isn't like an on/off switch. I always use 4x Yellow shoes with the X-Hard springs - you could run the hard 0.9 springs which will tone down the clutch a little bit. The black carbon shoes will also be less aggressive but you'll need to change them often to stop the clutch starting to lag on the bell (the springs elongate the mounting holes in the shoes and you loose spring tension).
The OS engine doesn't help you much because OS's are all bottom end in my experience. I had a Murnan novarossi once in my 1/10 sedan and he'd moved the power band all the way bottom and it made the car really hard to drive. I'm not sure if that's a trend for him but the OS is already very aggressive at the bottom end and hence why you are probably lighting up the tires even if you are steady on the throttle. For me at least you can't been the smoothness of a Novarossi power band!
I run 19/24 pretty much everywhere to be honest. If I've got a really long straight then I might goto 19/25 but that rare. I also alternate the plastics between 58/63 and 59/64 if I need to fine tune it a little bit more but honestly the stock gearing might be fine on that track.
My clutch setup is fairly aggressive but isn't like an on/off switch. I always use 4x Yellow shoes with the X-Hard springs - you could run the hard 0.9 springs which will tone down the clutch a little bit. The black carbon shoes will also be less aggressive but you'll need to change them often to stop the clutch starting to lag on the bell (the springs elongate the mounting holes in the shoes and you loose spring tension).
The OS engine doesn't help you much because OS's are all bottom end in my experience. I had a Murnan novarossi once in my 1/10 sedan and he'd moved the power band all the way bottom and it made the car really hard to drive. I'm not sure if that's a trend for him but the OS is already very aggressive at the bottom end and hence why you are probably lighting up the tires even if you are steady on the throttle. For me at least you can't been the smoothness of a Novarossi power band!
I run 19/24 pretty much everywhere to be honest. If I've got a really long straight then I might goto 19/25 but that rare. I also alternate the plastics between 58/63 and 59/64 if I need to fine tune it a little bit more but honestly the stock gearing might be fine on that track.
Question: whats the part number for the 59/64 spur gears? i had no idea the car came with those as an optional gear for the GT.
#99
I run 58/63 and 57/62 with 19/24 pinions. On a really tight track you could even try 18/23 pinions but just watch that OS power band!
#100
Tech Apprentice
Sorry gave you some duff gen! Just got home and had a look at my car. I'm one tooth out lol. Racing too many classes these days and its my 750 than I'm running 59 spur.
I run 58/63 and 57/62 with 19/24 pinions. On a really tight track you could even try 18/23 pinions but just watch that OS power band!
I run 58/63 and 57/62 with 19/24 pinions. On a really tight track you could even try 18/23 pinions but just watch that OS power band!
#101
Tech Initiate
Sorry gave you some duff gen! Just got home and had a look at my car. I'm one tooth out lol. Racing too many classes these days and its my 750 than I'm running 59 spur.
I run 58/63 and 57/62 with 19/24 pinions. On a really tight track you could even try 18/23 pinions but just watch that OS power band!
I run 58/63 and 57/62 with 19/24 pinions. On a really tight track you could even try 18/23 pinions but just watch that OS power band!
Question: what is the difference between the shock cap pro hard coated and the stock shock cap? is there real handling/performance difference between the them?
#102
#103
I run the stock caps and if you run the pro caps in stock configuration (bladder and screw fitted) then it'll be exactly the same and no difference in performance. The do look nice though!
#104
Dan can you tell me the difference in how the car will handle if i use the aluminium chassis braces in
the front and rear instead of the stock plastic ones
the front and rear instead of the stock plastic ones
#105
I'm finding some good things with the car now and it is responding well to setup changes. Last weekend I had my first national meeting in the UK with the car and made small changes here and there every run and improved the car a lot. The first thing I found is that actually the stock springs are about right for the conditions I have here which is quite bumpy tracks with low/medium grip.
Had some issues in quali putting me only P5 but in the final made it up to the leader only for a rear wheel to break taking me out of the final. I made the fastest lap in the final which was 2 tenths faster than had been seen all weekend and a lap record at that track. For sure the win was there but that wheel failure took me out of contention.
I also found going down in the damping to 800 (from 1000cst) oil on the stock pistons really helped the car transition and ride those bumps. I think this was the biggest step forwards that I found over the weekend. I'm going to try going to 600cst next time out as well.
Diffs I went up to 500k rear 1 million front. This made a big change and improved forward traction and mid/exit corner stability. Lower than 500k in the rear the car diffed out and had a tendency to over rotate on corner exit.
Also went one hole down from stock on the front inner camber link. This gave me more initial turn in bite.
Removed the steering stop screws from the C hubs as well as I didn't have enough lock to make some of the hairpins on our small track. Im happy to report that the SRX8-GT doesn't have the problem the 3.1 had in that some wheels hit the suspension components at full lock. The SRX8-GT is fine and on both Sweep and PMT wheel rims I found no clearance issues.
Guys, the car is fantastic and it's a real step forward from the 3.1 so if you are still undecided go with it. You won't be sorry. The ease of maintenance alone is epic. I could remove both diffs, open, clean, fill and reinstall in less than 30 minutes!! That was a pipe dream on the 3.1 and so setup changes are really easy...
Next stop for me is the Euros GT8 in Germany this weekend. Can't wait for the challenge with this new car.
Have fun guys!